Need help lowering in missouri.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: simpson town Mo
Need help lowering in missouri.
I know what your all gonna say but im stuck.I just installed my ti exhaust and decided to lower the ride as well but i cant get the front bolts to turn at all.It sets at ground to fender about 28 inches in the front and it looks horrible.(2000 hardtop).Im willing to make it worth anyones while to help me get this thing lower.The front pass side bolt seems like it wants to round off so im a bit scared to try any more.Ant takers?I have a heated cooled garage and all the tools to do the job i just need an extra set of expert hands(dont even!).Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 2
From: San Clemente CA
Originally Posted by sshole
I know what your all gonna say but im stuck.I just installed my ti exhaust and decided to lower the ride as well but i cant get the front bolts to turn at all.It sets at ground to fender about 28 inches in the front and it looks horrible.(2000 hardtop).Im willing to make it worth anyones while to help me get this thing lower.The front pass side bolt seems like it wants to round off so im a bit scared to try any more.Ant takers?I have a heated cooled garage and all the tools to do the job i just need an extra set of expert hands(dont even!).Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by sshole
The spring is not actually sitting on the washer/bolt.It looks like it is a bout a quartor inch above it.Do i still need to relive pressure by jacking the spring up?
That 1/4" gap you see between the bottom of spring and the bushing (which is actually the bottom of the bolt) is the gap you will eliminate when you thread the bolt upwards into the spring. The spring tension remain the same no matter how much gap or space there is between the bushing and the spring.
Now, if you had a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the Lower control arm, THEN you'd have removed all tension on the spring.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,406
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From: Fly Over State
Senior Member
Cruise-In V Veteran
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
The bolt is threaded through the spring, so, yes there is considerable tension on that bolt, making it very tough to turn. By jacking the spring up, you remove much of this tension, making the bolt usually very easy to turn.
That 1/4" gap you see between the bottom of spring and the bushing (which is actually the bottom of the bolt) is the gap you will eliminate when you thread the bolt upwards into the spring. The spring tension remain the same no matter how much gap or space there is between the bushing and the spring.
Now, if you had a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the Lower control arm, THEN you'd have removed all tension on the spring.
That 1/4" gap you see between the bottom of spring and the bushing (which is actually the bottom of the bolt) is the gap you will eliminate when you thread the bolt upwards into the spring. The spring tension remain the same no matter how much gap or space there is between the bushing and the spring.
Now, if you had a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the Lower control arm, THEN you'd have removed all tension on the spring.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: simpson town Mo
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
The bolt is threaded through the spring, so, yes there is considerable tension on that bolt, making it very tough to turn. By jacking the spring up, you remove much of this tension, making the bolt usually very easy to turn.
That 1/4" gap you see between the bottom of spring and the bushing (which is actually the bottom of the bolt) is the gap you will eliminate when you thread the bolt upwards into the spring. The spring tension remain the same no matter how much gap or space there is between the bushing and the spring.
Now, if you had a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the Lower control arm, THEN you'd have removed all tension on the spring.
That 1/4" gap you see between the bottom of spring and the bushing (which is actually the bottom of the bolt) is the gap you will eliminate when you thread the bolt upwards into the spring. The spring tension remain the same no matter how much gap or space there is between the bushing and the spring.
Now, if you had a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the Lower control arm, THEN you'd have removed all tension on the spring.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
And FYI, you'll want to turn the 10mm hex head of the bolt counterclockwise, as if you were loosening it. This will thread the bolt up into the spring, whcih is what you want to do to lower it.
Jacking up on the spring to relieve the tension will make all the difference in ease of turning the bolt. Good luck to ya.
Jacking up on the spring to relieve the tension will make all the difference in ease of turning the bolt. Good luck to ya.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: simpson town Mo
Ok done the front took about 45 mins and the rear was an easy 10 min.It doesnt look a whole lot lower but it dropped so far before driving it 1 full inch.Hope it drops at least half again as much but im sure ill need to remove some bushings to be happy.
