Dry Sump Oiling System in a C5: what is required?
11-22-2004, 05:37 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Dry Sump Oiling System in a C5: what is required?
I am looking for information on adding a dry sump oiling system to a C5 in conjunction with a 427ci longblock.
Has anyone done this other than Katech?
What parts were required for the dry sump oiling system?
What was the financial cost?
What custom modification or fabrication is required?
Any information will be most appreciated.
Thanks.
Has anyone done this other than Katech?
What parts were required for the dry sump oiling system?
What was the financial cost?
What custom modification or fabrication is required?
Any information will be most appreciated.
Thanks.
Last edited by 427 C5; 11-22-2004 at 05:38 PM. Reason: spelling
11-22-2004, 06:22 PM
#2
Most builders use components/brackets from Aviad. There are also various sumps you can use, for example here
The rub is all of them place the pumps where the AC compressor is, so if this is not acceptable, then you have to get really creative.
LGM, DRM etc have done this maney times for various race car setups, I'd start with them.
The rub is all of them place the pumps where the AC compressor is, so if this is not acceptable, then you have to get really creative.
LGM, DRM etc have done this maney times for various race car setups, I'd start with them.
11-22-2004, 11:27 PM
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On a street car with all the accessories you are lacking one thing. "Room"
Bill
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11-27-2004, 09:51 AM
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Wade Stevens and I installed an ARE (Armstrong Race Engeneering aremfg@ulink.net 916-987-7629, not the same as ARE the tuner from Canada), dry sump system and it is working well. The scavenging pump does replace the A/C pump and the factory oil pump is still used. Room is the issue though. Everything fits well but is tight, close 90* connectors must be used under the scavenging pump, regular 90* would hit. The biggest compromise other than losing A/C is for the bottle placement on a street car.
The tank and over flow bottle had to be placed in the space of the passenger side head light and the filter in the driver side head light area. We used existing brackets and cut out the lights and some hardware. We left the manual openers to access the compartments. I purchased PIAA 1552 driving lights and installed them where the fog lights were and used the existing wiring from the head lights to wire the driving lights, Lemans or C5R head lights could also be used instead of the light covers so long as they were removable for access to oil tank and filter. If I get motivated I can also wire the light covers with a two way switch that will open and close the the motor for the head lights covers instead of doing it manually.
Another point of interest is that oil changes seems to leave 4 liters of oil in the system. I change my oil every 1200 to 1500 miles so thats not a major issue for me, although every 3 or 4 oil changes I will empty the system and then add 4 liters and run for it a few minutes and then re-empty the system for a more complete oil change or the other way is to loosen a connector on the bottom of the pan and drain it from there.
One thing I really like about this system is that the pipped sqeeked sized LS1 oil filter is replaced by a large race filter.
The tank and over flow bottle had to be placed in the space of the passenger side head light and the filter in the driver side head light area. We used existing brackets and cut out the lights and some hardware. We left the manual openers to access the compartments. I purchased PIAA 1552 driving lights and installed them where the fog lights were and used the existing wiring from the head lights to wire the driving lights, Lemans or C5R head lights could also be used instead of the light covers so long as they were removable for access to oil tank and filter. If I get motivated I can also wire the light covers with a two way switch that will open and close the the motor for the head lights covers instead of doing it manually.
Another point of interest is that oil changes seems to leave 4 liters of oil in the system. I change my oil every 1200 to 1500 miles so thats not a major issue for me, although every 3 or 4 oil changes I will empty the system and then add 4 liters and run for it a few minutes and then re-empty the system for a more complete oil change or the other way is to loosen a connector on the bottom of the pan and drain it from there.
One thing I really like about this system is that the pipped sqeeked sized LS1 oil filter is replaced by a large race filter.
