Larzmat

Ok I will try and summarize:

Dirty side:
Driver side valve cover to MM can.
(Should I T in on the passenger side valve cover?)

Clean side:
Air filter element to MM can.

Everything else is capped off. (Valley cover, intake, and oil cap)

Good or no? Lol

Larzmat

Here's the MM install instruction, I was running the "Draft" setup.

Only mod I am considering is putting another dirty side from driver valve cover.

madmatt9471

Subscribed - got to look at this later today

Thanks,Matt

COSPEED

NO! What that has done is defeat all evacuation and flushing! You are only venting pressure after it builds and absolutely no flushing or evacuation is taking place. This is leaving nearly ALL the damaging combustion by-products in the crankcase to accumulate and add excessive wear to the engines internals. This also retains nearly all the sulfuric acid as well as most of the water (some water vapor will vent out as steam). Unless your changing oil and filter after every outing, your engine will last a fraction of the time as it would be evacuating and removing those contaminants, and you are increasing the amount of blow-by (that creates crankcase pressure and the source of the damaging contaminants) by causing piston ring instability. You want to pull suction on the crankcase and constantly flush those contaminants out .

Clean filtered air in one bank, foul damaging compound laden vapors out the opposite, and how your set-up is horrible for an engine and performance. I think the only professional racing where this is done is some classes of stock car where oil is changed every race outing, and a "claimer" engine is used. The modifieds all use dry-sumps and vacuum pumps to prevent damage and make maximum ring seal and power.

All drag classes except Top fuel and Top Alky use evacuation systems as well.

So many I see doing what yours is like, and do not realize what it is doing to the engine.

Want to verify? At your next oil change, take an oil sample and send into one of the labs that do a detailed complete analysis (not the basic one from Blackstone, a premium one) and you will see the levels of contaminants and wear.

Let me know if you need more guidance.

Larzmat

I do appreciate the input on this, I have conflicting information and I am trying to sort out what the actual right way to do this is.

I apologize for the redundancy of questions, and I will try and think of a way on how I can communicate the discrepancy and get a resolution.

I am just following the MM suggestions on the configuration, and that's where it becomes confusing.

COSPEED

Understood. I assume like most cans out there, this was designed and the instructions done by someone just making "assumptions" and not understanding the basics of proper crankcase evacuation and PCV systems. Almost no "catchcans" or "tanks" are designed by actual Automotive Engineers that do design work for the Auto Industry. Most are just adapted "liquid over flow catchcans" by those wanting to jump on the bandwagon and make$ off the issues that need addressed.

As techs, etc. have not been taught PCV system function or proper crankcase evacuation in the past 20-25 years, very few out there outside of the actual engineering division inside the industry or outside of Professional Racing (not just the fastest test and tune, or some of the amateur series set up for the part timer) understand even the basics. Ultimately, it is up to you the car owner, but remember my education and all the facts and references I have provided to back up what I have shared down the road when your engine needs rebuilt.

You cannot get an engine to live a full life with out proper evacuation and removing the damaging compounds. Go back and re-read all I have posted, especially how the Automotive Industry stumbled upon the benefits of proper evacuation when engines started to last 2-3 times as long in the years following the Federally mandated implementation of the PCV system in the early to mid 60's. No other changes had been made, and it took a good amount of study and analysis to determine why this occurred.

Then call up say Reher Morrison, or Scott Shaffirof (2 of the most respected and famous race engine builders in the US) and ask if it is better to pull vacuum and constantly evacuate, or just allow pressure to build and vent. Then your getting it from an undeniable 3rd party with nothing to gain and no "horse in the race". Post back what your told. (when you call say your interested in an engine. and ask these questions).

Remember, ask whoever is giving you the "conflicting info" (I have provided articles, examples, industry papers, etc. for you to verify what I am saying...are they?) does not have a fraction of the degree's, qualifications (worked for GM in the past, and currently do design work that is in use today on GM PCV systems), industry affiliations, certifications, etc. that I am sharing here. My field of expertise is very specialized, and that is why I was hired to provide all of this education and verifiable technical information. I do not sell, and will not quote or take an order from you or anyone...I refuse to as this is such political mess with biased opinions vs fact as is so common out there. And I urge all to re-watch the PCV training video to again understand what the PCV system does.

Let me know if I can help more, and ask specific questions. I always have an open invite for ANY that promote defeating all the PCV systems functions to explain in detail how this is in any way beneficial and will NOT shorten engine life, result in premature wear, and be better than pulling suction on the crankcase for proper ring seal and stability. Not once has any come and accepted this, but they have come into threads and called me names, insulted, had supporters enter and attack, and PM'd me worse. But not a single one will enter into an intelligent, fact backed civil discussion (I assume your being told the same insults directed to me and to not listen, but all I post can be easily verified by actual industry and scientific data, and I give the links and instructions on how to research on your own to see).

Larzmat

I definitely am not arguing with your logic, just trying to figure out the best setup for my S/C application. Again, I do appreciate the time spent on this.

I used one of your diagrams as a mockup sketch for my MM can in the pic below.

COSPEED

I figured your not, but it appeared someone else was working to confuse you!

Problem is that can only traps a small portion of the oil ingestion you want to stop if used routed correctly. I will get back on line tomorrow and help you configure it.



The way you have it no oil is getting ingested, but the engine life is the trade off, as well as a small amount of power.

wildthingwood1994

I have a Kenne Bell twin screw set up and am using a Mike Norris catch can (one in one out). Currently I have dirty side from driver valve cover to CC inlet and the outlet of the CC runs to a Barb in the cold air intake tubing. I have a breather filter on my oil cap. Passenger valve cover tubes and throttle body tube are capped off. Any suggestions? Thanks much!

COSPEED

Yes, that outlet should be connected from the can to the vacuum barb on the KB that runs to the brake booster now (add a "T" at the SC end of hose or there should be an extra barb capped at that location as the vacuum all comes from the same internal chamber).

Having the breather on the passenger side means 0 incoming air is metered by the MAF. I would ditch the breather (rarely are breathers ever any good for any street use) and add the billet cleanside separator (CSS) in place of the oil fill cap, hose from it to the connection on the CAI tube so your PCM can read all the incoming air correctly. Other wise the MAF is telling the PCM one set of data, the MAP another, and the upstream O2's yet another so as they do fit into the parameters it expects to see, if you scan w/HP tuners or EFI live, you will see your short term fuel trims hinting all over trying to adapt as they add and take away fuel. Much more stable driveability and under WOT operation.

Also, that type can (several brands on the same can made by none of them) only traps a small amount of the oil vapors passing through.

If you install a CoSpeed or Elite E2-X in series inline after those type small cans you will see they trap twice what the small cans do AFTER they fist can has done it's best. You really want to stop all oil ingestion to eliminate the KR caused by that ingestion. (try what I describe with ANY can brand anyone is using and see how effective a can truly is, then do it in reverse for the same amount of miles to be fair and test both ways).

COSPEED

OK, lets figure out how to convert that can to work properly. The concern I have replacing the window with a barb is you really need to see what the inside of the can makeup is like. If you take the breather off the top, I think the valve is in the breather portion on that model, but can you do that and take pictures and post? Then we can all see the internal make-up and figure flow.

Thanks!

stryderss

A link to products would be AWESOME!!!!!

thanks

COSPEED

Sorry! http://www.coloradospeed.com/?main_p...ha_filter_id=0

You can tell I am not in sales!

You can just pick the correct model and in the notes specify your make/model/year/mods, etc. for sales.

wildthingwood1994

Great advice I'll do that! My car doesnt have a maf its tuned out, should i still route the clean side from the CAI tube or could i use the throttle boddy barb? Because of my wallets feelings I will probably wait until I ditch my current mike norris CC.

COSPEED

Either barb. GM eliminated the TB cleanside port from 2005 up as it was not as efficient in proper flow as from the CAI tube, but either works.

On the can, at least you have a can helping some. The can you have is far better than any of the Ebay or the billet ones with media in chambers against each outlet like this as they are just the same as a wet wash cloth put to your mouth and suck on it, pulls water into your mouth and the PCV flow and suction is far greater than your mouth.
These are truly some of the worst (aside from ebay cans!):

stryderss

would love to see some pics of a proper set up for a S/C set up.

COSPEED

There are 2 drastically different super charger types, screw and centrifugal. Which do you want to see? I'll post what I can for you.

wildthingwood1994

My vote is screw lol.

stryderss

Centrifugal
please

jimbos'ss

Sent you a message on FB bud.