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[Z06] can you do a burnout without wheelhop?

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Old 03-04-2005, 08:14 PM
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Chris Stewart
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Default can you do a burnout without wheelhop?

Everytime I try a burnout it hops like crazy. Going to the track tomorrow and I would like to burn these F1 ****** and hope for a decent lunch, to improve on my stellar 2.3 60ft from last week. Any ideas? 2nd gear, water, has anything worked for you?

Old 03-04-2005, 08:30 PM
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GeorgeZNJ
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09

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my first two times at the track totally sucked, embarrased myself, wheel hop, rev limiter, actually hit the brakes stopped the car punched the dashboard and screamed what the f**k? anyway noe i put the car in comp mode(hold the trac button down for 5 sec) launch the burnout at about 5500rpms and let up as it approaches rev limit. If you shut the car off between runs, you have to put the car back in comp mode as it resets itself with the ignition being turned back on. good luck and burn those muthrs
Old 03-04-2005, 08:38 PM
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CAracer
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Burn out in second gear is a start. A small amount of water will also help eliminate wheel hop.
Old 03-05-2005, 12:35 AM
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Figure out a technique because wheel hop is really hard on the rear.
Old 03-05-2005, 09:30 AM
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Ranger
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Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
Everytime I try a burnout it hops like crazy. Going to the track tomorrow and I would like to burn these F1 ****** and hope for a decent lunch, to improve on my stellar 2.3 60ft from last week. Any ideas? 2nd gear, water, has anything worked for you?
Burn-out of Stock Tires

If you are running the stock Z06 tires (GY F1SCs), a full burnout will lower your 60' times, all other things being equal.

Avoid driving THROUGH the water. Instead drive around the water and back up until the rear tires are just into the damp area. I then do a full burnout just like on DRs. I don't have a line lock and here is the procedure I use (no claim it's the best way):

Back into the damp area forward of the waterbox.

Make sure you're in COMPETITIVE DRIVING mode. Put the tranny in 2d.

Drop the clutch and feed the throttle and (if necessary), quickly lightly apply the brakes with your left foot. I don't usually need the brakes but some folks find it helpful for keeping the rear end from walking to far sideways.

Bring the rpm to about 6000 until the tires smoke strongly. At that point, back out of the throttle and (if applied) release the brake, and you'll roar forward. The tires are heated. I don't count seconds but just spin them strongly until they smoke hard.

Takes a little practice. But remember, if you botch the burn-out, DON'T retry it with dry tires. Doing that will likely glaze the clutch...or worse.

Using this procedure, I'm usually getting high 1.7s or low 1.8s on stock tires. That is about a tenth improvement compared to what I was getting with a simple clean-up spin before staging. The burnout also helps to better hook the shifts to 2d and 3d.

Ranger

Last edited by Ranger; 03-05-2005 at 06:02 PM.
Old 03-05-2005, 01:41 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
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REad Rangers tech section and it gives awesome advise for the track. Get some DRs and they will be much more forgiving and more fun. If you mess up your launch on street tires, it can be very bad but if you spin DRs, it will only go as slow as a 1.9 60'. IMO they are much easier to launch too and the potential for bettr gains is much higher too. Enjoy and good luck!
Dave
Old 03-05-2005, 05:18 PM
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Robert56@RNS
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Chris, sorry I couldn't get with you again, as I had to work today. We will get together soon and then you'll be able to give me some tips. It seems that all I can do is go up in smoke.
Old 03-05-2005, 10:13 PM
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Chris Stewart
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I appreciate the information everybody. One of my kids got the flu and so I had to pass on racing. I've got a set of 305/35/18 Nitto 555R2's on the way. Along with the strategy learned here, I might have a fighting chance on my next trip.


Last edited by Chris Stewart; 03-05-2005 at 10:56 PM.
Old 03-05-2005, 11:02 PM
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St. Jude Donor '06

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No problems here.
Old 03-07-2005, 04:53 PM
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t56gen3
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Mine hops like a **** any time it's spinning. 555rs or F1Scs makes no difference. Wondering if I got a bad shock or something....

Generally if I hang the **** end out I don't have too much hop, so if I'm showing off I just swing it out.
Old 03-07-2005, 05:39 PM
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Yes. Never had a problem with the F1SC's. Sorry I can't tell you about the others. I get a mild wheel hop on the launch sometimes if I put too much gas and pull the clutch too quick.
Old 03-07-2005, 06:02 PM
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I only had wheel hop my 1st time at the track when the F1's were new & on the 1-2 shift. I also had no clue how to race this car then either. In fact, I'm STILL learning what my car likes!
Read Ranger's write up. Should help a lot!
Ron
Old 03-07-2005, 08:54 PM
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Chris,

You are going to break something very expensive if your Vette continues to suffer wheel hop. Do yourself and your Z06 a favor and get a DTE differential strut, '04 Z06 shocks, and a hardened L.H. output shaft. .

Enjoy




.
Old 03-07-2005, 09:33 PM
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Ranger, what RPM are you dropping the clutch at during your burnout?

Pumba, I thought it was the RH OS that needed to be replaced? I have the hardened shaft but have yet to install it.

Last edited by dragon84; 03-07-2005 at 10:06 PM.
Old 03-07-2005, 10:04 PM
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Ranger
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Originally Posted by dragon84
Ranger, what RMP are you dropping the clutch at during your burnout?
Using the procedure I sketched out above, the tires have some water on them. Given that, they break loose and start spinning at a very low rpm. I use about 2000-2500. Drop the clutch and roll on the throttle, upping the rpm to produce smoke from the tires.

Also, regarding breakage, I have none in 250+ passes. If the driver avoids dumb errors, it's hard to break the rear in a stock Z06.

Ranger

Last edited by Ranger; 03-07-2005 at 10:29 PM.
Old 03-07-2005, 10:26 PM
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Cool, thanks Ranger..

Originally Posted by Ranger
Using the procedure I sketched out above, the tires have some water on them. Given that, they break loose and start spinning at a very low rpm. I use at 2000-2500. Drop the clutch and roll on the throttle, upping the rpm to produce smoke from the tires.

Also, regarding breakage, I have none in 250+ passes. If the driver avoids dumb A $ $ errors, it's hard to break the rear in a stock Z06.

Ranger
Old 03-08-2005, 05:21 PM
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Tom,

The left-hand shaft is the longer and weaker of the two. It will fail before the right-hand shaft.

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Old 03-08-2005, 05:22 PM
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Tom,

The left-hand shaft is the longer and weaker of the two. It will fail before the right-hand shaft.



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Old 03-10-2005, 09:01 AM
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Ranger! I resemble that "dumb error" remark!! And I KNEW better, as you know.

For those of you who wonder what I'm talking about, I shelled my diff at the track (with Ranger and others) about two years ago. Went to hit the stock tires with a dry cleanup, wheels hopped like a rabbit on crystal meth, and car no move no more. Snapped the RIGHT SIDE output shaft....and according to my friendly GM zone rep, I was the first Z owner to have done so (in November 2002). They weren't too happy with me, but they replaced under warranty...and told me to never come back with drivetrain damage, because I'm on their s---list.

So, I never went back to the beloved drag strip to see if I could powershift my way into the 11.90 zone with a bone stock car.
Old 03-10-2005, 09:48 PM
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Chris Stewart
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Default yee-ouch

That is a scary story! It seems a high RPM dump will get that azz hoppin every time. I like the idea of a water assisted low RPM windup. Can't wait to try it on some 555R2's.


I did not know about the DTE differential strut. I just read the product page at Dynotech and that is a sweet rig. I think I want one. Dang you guys are a bad influence.

Last edited by Chris Stewart; 03-10-2005 at 09:56 PM.


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