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[Z06] Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact
10-06-2012, 02:18 PM
#121
Former Vendor
Clutch return spring
As others have mentioned, the OEM spring found in the pedal assembly of the C5 and C6 Corvettes is not a clutch pedal return spring. It is an over center spring. It assists on one side of the travel and resists on the other side of the travel.
The Lingenfelter clutch pedal return spring kit for the C5 and C6 Corvette (PN L360080197) is, as the name implies, a clutch pedal return spring. As many have found, under some conditions the pedal will not return after a shift. This usually happens under high RPM driving conditions. The clutch pedal return spring solves this problem. We offer a similar kit (PN L360091410) for the 5th Gen Camaro and 2nd Gen CTSV.
If you look at a production 2012-2013 ZL1 Camaro, they have a clutch pedal return spring built into that clutch pedal assembly (in addition to the over center spring). I have attached an image of the ZL1 Camaro pedal assembly with the two springs labeled. And, no we didn't copy the ZL1. We had our clutch pedal return spring out at least a year before the ZL1 came out - just two different groups of engineers coming to the same solution. 8-)
Since the C5/C6 Corvette, the 5th Gen Camaro (other than the ZL1) and the 2009-2013 CTSV don't have provisions for a clutch pedal return spring, you need more than just a spring. You also need a bracket to attach the spring to. Our kits for these applications include:
Here is a link to the installation instructions that include some pictures.
Several have mentioned our product as the "$90 spring". Keep in mind you aren't paying $90 for just a spring. A stainless steel CNC machined bracket and mounting fasteners are also included. In addition, the spring is a stainless steel spring with an outer dampening sleeve to reduce noise. We have also done a fair amount of testing to determine the proper spring length and rate for the application so you don't have to test out 20 different springs from the hardware store and then worry that you are yielding the spring and going to have it fail 2 weeks later.
Due to the increased sales of these parts, we have been able to reduce the cost of the brackets by making them in higher volumes so we have recently reduced the price on the clutch return spring kits to $79.95 for both versions.
The Lingenfelter clutch pedal return spring kit for the C5 and C6 Corvette (PN L360080197) is, as the name implies, a clutch pedal return spring. As many have found, under some conditions the pedal will not return after a shift. This usually happens under high RPM driving conditions. The clutch pedal return spring solves this problem. We offer a similar kit (PN L360091410) for the 5th Gen Camaro and 2nd Gen CTSV.
If you look at a production 2012-2013 ZL1 Camaro, they have a clutch pedal return spring built into that clutch pedal assembly (in addition to the over center spring). I have attached an image of the ZL1 Camaro pedal assembly with the two springs labeled. And, no we didn't copy the ZL1. We had our clutch pedal return spring out at least a year before the ZL1 came out - just two different groups of engineers coming to the same solution. 8-)
Since the C5/C6 Corvette, the 5th Gen Camaro (other than the ZL1) and the 2009-2013 CTSV don't have provisions for a clutch pedal return spring, you need more than just a spring. You also need a bracket to attach the spring to. Our kits for these applications include:
- a CNC machined billet stainless steel bracket with fasteners that mounts to the clutch pedal assembly to secure the spring on one side
- a stainless steel spring with an outer dampening sleeve (to reduce the noise from the spring)
Here is a link to the installation instructions that include some pictures.
Several have mentioned our product as the "$90 spring". Keep in mind you aren't paying $90 for just a spring. A stainless steel CNC machined bracket and mounting fasteners are also included. In addition, the spring is a stainless steel spring with an outer dampening sleeve to reduce noise. We have also done a fair amount of testing to determine the proper spring length and rate for the application so you don't have to test out 20 different springs from the hardware store and then worry that you are yielding the spring and going to have it fail 2 weeks later.
Due to the increased sales of these parts, we have been able to reduce the cost of the brackets by making them in higher volumes so we have recently reduced the price on the clutch return spring kits to $79.95 for both versions.
make a thread and ask about the 90 dollar spring. i personally know a few guys with c6 z06 and they run the spring and no issues, i myself like the tick unit. the spring helps the pedal not stick to the floor simple as that, brings the pedal back up faster preventing it to stick to the floor.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...Store_Code=LPE
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...Store_Code=LPE
10-07-2012, 05:53 PM
#122
I'd suggest checking the fluid every time you fill up with gas. Any time you see that the fluid is even slightly murky, then change it every few days until its remains clear. The reservoir holds about 3 oz., about 20% of the entire capacity of the clutch hydraulics. By doing this you are keeping the average freshness much higher and ridding the system of debris before it accumulates.
The procedure is:
(1) Draw out the funky fluid with the syringe. Picture of Syringe
(2) Wipe out the reservoir with a paper towel.
(3) Refill with fresh fluid to the fill-line.
That's it. Takes about three minutes. Take care to keep the (corrosive) fluid off your paint. I dispose of the spent fluid in a sealed container.
Some folks find this procedure too much trouble. But other that follow it avoid pedal issues that are MUCH more bothersome.
Ranger
The procedure is:
(1) Draw out the funky fluid with the syringe. Picture of Syringe
(2) Wipe out the reservoir with a paper towel.
(3) Refill with fresh fluid to the fill-line.
That's it. Takes about three minutes. Take care to keep the (corrosive) fluid off your paint. I dispose of the spent fluid in a sealed container.
Some folks find this procedure too much trouble. But other that follow it avoid pedal issues that are MUCH more bothersome.
Ranger
10-09-2012, 12:30 AM
#123
Instructor
Member Since: Feb 2012
Location: Abilene TX
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broken spring (clutch would stick)
took it out and havnt replaced it yet.. dont know if i will.. clutch has not stuck once yet.. and i drove her pretty good this weekend
took it out and havnt replaced it yet.. dont know if i will.. clutch has not stuck once yet.. and i drove her pretty good this weekend
10-09-2012, 02:42 PM
#124
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: CHICAGO/NORTH WEST SUBURBS ILLINOIS
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yup u can try that as well, i mentioned it prior on my post earlier. i did that as well on my fbody car and it solved the issue. that be a good starting point without spending any money for sure just remove the spring completely. i liked it in my fbody, it gave the pedal and little stiffer feeling which i like. but on the z06 i just wanted to replace it with a overall much better hydraulic system than the factory piece. i love the tick performance clutch master cylinder probably one of the best things ive done to this car by far. the car shifts and drives a difference by night and day.
05-18-2014, 04:10 PM
#126
1st Gear
Member Since: May 2014
Location: New Hope Al
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hello Ranger
i have done what you said to do and the problem is still there but it is better than it was but it still comes back after about an hour of driving the car what would do you think i need to do at this point
oh and the fluid is clear with very little color change
thanks
i have done what you said to do and the problem is still there but it is better than it was but it still comes back after about an hour of driving the car what would do you think i need to do at this point
oh and the fluid is clear with very little color change
thanks
05-18-2014, 08:14 PM
#127
Race Director
hello Ranger
i have done what you said to do and the problem is still there but it is better than it was but it still comes back after about an hour of driving the car what would do you think i need to do at this point
oh and the fluid is clear with very little color change
thanks
i have done what you said to do and the problem is still there but it is better than it was but it still comes back after about an hour of driving the car what would do you think i need to do at this point
oh and the fluid is clear with very little color change
thanks
but
i've been in your shoes and can tell you what happened with my car
when i bought my z the fluid was black. shifting under power was the same problem everyone else has. i did the ranger method, slight improvement, then i kept doing it every tank of gas for the first year i owned the car. that's probably 20 flushes over 5k miles. it's MUCH better now
