[Z06] Halltech AFR1 armrest install - (long)
03-27-2002, 04:57 PM
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Halltech AFR1 armrest install - (long)
Before you begin this project you want to make sure you have all of the proper tools, so the job will go smoother and you can get back in to your car and enjoy it. For me, it took a trip to the local Wal-Mart and Home Depot. Luckily, they are in the same shopping strip, close to where I live. I am typing this at the Dallas airport, so I won't be able to provide the exact names and prices of all the items, but you'll get the picture. You will need the following:
Electrical tape, wire cutter, wire stripper, crimping tool, zip lock bags (three), utility knife, various sized wrenches, ratchet, 7" extension, 3" extension, socket set, small screwdriver, drill, drill bit, flash light, and a small (really small) file.
At Home Depot, purchase 15 ft (more than you'll need, but just in case) of four different colored wires. I used yellow, black, pink, and blue. The wire was .09 cents a foot, so you won't lose an arm or a leg buying it.
To begin, wrap the four wires together using the electrical tape, leaving 6 inches uncovered from one end and 5 1/2 feet from the other. Tape both ends with tape, so that it will be easy to maneuver under the carpet and so fourth. Now it's time to focus on the car. First, unlock the car, put the keys in, turn the ignition to ACC and power down the windows. Funny as it sounds, this will save you some headaches later.
You can start the install several different ways, but I recommend using the following the directions, so that if you need to use the car, you can. Start in the driver's side seat; lift the armrest to locate the two tabs that are on the rear portion of the inner armrest (closest to the rear of the car). Using the small screwdriver, pry up the tabs exposing the nuts within. Be careful not to damage the tabs. Next, pry up the plastic piece that holds the traction control button. Again, be careful not to scratch the plastic. Insert the small screwdriver and pry up, but do not pull, just lay the piece over to one side, so that it is out of the way. You should see the other two nuts that hold the center section in place. Using the ratchet, #10 socket and 3" extension remove the four nuts. Place the nuts and the plastic tabs in the one of the zip lock bags. Now, remove the wiring to the cigarette lighter, by pressing down on the plastic lock and pulling straight back. Here is another section were you need to be careful again. Lift the rear section upward and slide it back slowly. Once you slide the section back enough to clear the front section, S-L-O-W-L-Y rotate the rear section of the console, so that you can see the wiring for the gas release mechanism underneath. Lift the plastic lock and remove it by pulling back and down simultaneously. It's a little tricky. Once you do that you should be able to remove the section completely. Take the rear section of the console (you just removed) and the AFR1 with you to the garage. With the armrest in the closed position, flip the console, so that the bottom section is facing towards you. You should see the four small nuts. Using the ratchet and appropriate socket remove the nuts and place them in a zip lock bag. Place the armrest aside. Flip the armrest around, so that the containing section is facing you. Get the AFR1 and test fit it, if it is where you want it take the two small screws, drill with the Phillips head bit, and drive the screws through the console. Here's is the important part! Look to see where you want the wire to exit the console, I used the driver's side section. Back the two screws out and make a mental note on where you want the wires to exit. Take your time and be extra careful when performing these next tasks! Using the appropriate size bit, drill a hole in the area where the wires will exit. ONLY drill the exit hole through the first section of the plastic. DO NOT penetrate the outer section or you will ruin the console. Check the fit. If the wires do not go feed through properly use the file to size the hole. Once you have the wires fed through, refit the AFR1 where you originally placed it and screw it back into place. Replace the armrest cover by reversing your prior steps. Now, go back to the car's driver's side and replace the console. To do this, you must first feed the AFR1 wiring to the exposed section of the front console (section where the lighter and traction control is), this part is easy. Once you do that, pull the all of the remaining AFR1 wiring through. Set the console in place, but do not fasten it down.
Okay, here is where the fun begins, open the hood and remove the battery cables from the battery using the appropriate wrenches. Using the ratchet, a #10 socket, and a 7" extension remove the bolt and plastic lock, holding the battery in place. Remove the battery from the car. With the flashlight or other light source, locate the rubber grommet, which is on the firewall and should be right behind where the battery was. It should have wires in the middle of it that feed into the vehicle. Once you locate it, remove it by pulling it out. It's a little tough and you may have move it around to get it out from its location. Once you remove it, cut it in lengthwise, so that you can later insert the wires you taped earlier. Make sure not to cut the wires or your fingers! Next, move to the passenger's side foot-well. There are two things to do here. To start, remove the nut that is holding the plastic cover underneath the glove box. It is located against the firewall right in the middle and you should not have a problem with this one with the racket and socket. For the next step, you will have to lie on your back to get the best view. Remove the plastic cover underneath the glove compartment. The best method is to pull straight down close to the gray plastic fasteners. Make sure to do one at a time. You can do it with your bare hands, but be careful not to pull too hard because you may damage the wiring to the lighting. Once you're done with that you should be able to see the entrance where the wires will enter the vehicle. Get the wire you taped earlier and feed the side that has the 5-½ feet exposed from the inside out. To begin, you will only need about 3 to 4 feet just enough to pull on later. Now, feed the other end behind the console underneath the carpet towards the shifter/rear console. You may have to maneuver the wire, but his step is not hard. The carpet is held against the brake boot with Velcro, so you can guide the wire from there. Guide the wire through and out of the traction control cover (where the AFR1 wires should be coming out from too). Here the easy part. Connect the wires from the AFR1 to the wires that you taped (This is where the connectors, crimping tool, and wire stripper come in). We've all connected wires together before, so I won't go into detail. I used the following scheme:
Black to black
Yellow to yellow
Pink to pink
Shielded black to blue
Once you connect the wires accordingly, tape the wires together. Begin from where you originally left of (6 inches back). Continue to tape until you cannot fit the roll through. The reason I recommend this is because it will look factory. Go back to where you originally feed the wire underneath the carpet and pull the tight. Now you can replace the console and all the wiring. These steps should be easy, just perform the removal steps in reverse. Now go to the front of the car and pull the remaining wire through the firewall into the engine compartment. Insert the taped wire into the groummet with the other wires and insert back into position. Return to the passenger's side foot well, make sure that the wire is not in the way of anything else, if it is not replace the cover. The hard part is done.
Route the wire along the firewall, just underneath the wipers. I used some wire clips that I found a Wal-Mart that are self-adhesive. Replace the battery and lock into place. Replace the positive wire, but not the ground (save that for later). Route the wires along to the driver's side area and remove the beauty cover from the driver's side. Remove the factory tape just after the radiator shroud, so you only have to deal with the four wires coming from the MAF. Remember you will not use the purple or brown, so don't bother with these. Measure the slack and cut the taped wire, but leave some room to play with. Remove about 5 inches of tape to expose the four wires. Remember that the shielded wire is now blue! Connect the wires according to the installation instructions provided by Halltech. Once all wires are connected, tape as needed to restore a factory look. I slipped my wires back in to the factory tubing. Replace the beauty cover, replace the ground wire on the battery, and it is now time to test. Turn the key to ACC. You may get the check engine light, but don't panic! The codes I got were from the battery being disconnected. It is okay to clear these. The only codes you should be concerned with would be anything associated with the PCM. Once you clear the codes the check engine light should go off. Turn the car on. To test the AFR1, turn the dial closest to the driver (left ****) all of the way left (counter clockwise) the car should start to struggle. Return the dial to the center position. It works! Turn the car off. Finish any details and smile. Turn the car back on and allow it to relearn idle. Tune your car to your liking!
e-mail me for the pictures.
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 10:19 AM 3/29/2002]
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 11:10 AM 3/29/2002]
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 11:31 AM 3/29/2002]
Electrical tape, wire cutter, wire stripper, crimping tool, zip lock bags (three), utility knife, various sized wrenches, ratchet, 7" extension, 3" extension, socket set, small screwdriver, drill, drill bit, flash light, and a small (really small) file.
At Home Depot, purchase 15 ft (more than you'll need, but just in case) of four different colored wires. I used yellow, black, pink, and blue. The wire was .09 cents a foot, so you won't lose an arm or a leg buying it.
To begin, wrap the four wires together using the electrical tape, leaving 6 inches uncovered from one end and 5 1/2 feet from the other. Tape both ends with tape, so that it will be easy to maneuver under the carpet and so fourth. Now it's time to focus on the car. First, unlock the car, put the keys in, turn the ignition to ACC and power down the windows. Funny as it sounds, this will save you some headaches later.
You can start the install several different ways, but I recommend using the following the directions, so that if you need to use the car, you can. Start in the driver's side seat; lift the armrest to locate the two tabs that are on the rear portion of the inner armrest (closest to the rear of the car). Using the small screwdriver, pry up the tabs exposing the nuts within. Be careful not to damage the tabs. Next, pry up the plastic piece that holds the traction control button. Again, be careful not to scratch the plastic. Insert the small screwdriver and pry up, but do not pull, just lay the piece over to one side, so that it is out of the way. You should see the other two nuts that hold the center section in place. Using the ratchet, #10 socket and 3" extension remove the four nuts. Place the nuts and the plastic tabs in the one of the zip lock bags. Now, remove the wiring to the cigarette lighter, by pressing down on the plastic lock and pulling straight back. Here is another section were you need to be careful again. Lift the rear section upward and slide it back slowly. Once you slide the section back enough to clear the front section, S-L-O-W-L-Y rotate the rear section of the console, so that you can see the wiring for the gas release mechanism underneath. Lift the plastic lock and remove it by pulling back and down simultaneously. It's a little tricky. Once you do that you should be able to remove the section completely. Take the rear section of the console (you just removed) and the AFR1 with you to the garage. With the armrest in the closed position, flip the console, so that the bottom section is facing towards you. You should see the four small nuts. Using the ratchet and appropriate socket remove the nuts and place them in a zip lock bag. Place the armrest aside. Flip the armrest around, so that the containing section is facing you. Get the AFR1 and test fit it, if it is where you want it take the two small screws, drill with the Phillips head bit, and drive the screws through the console. Here's is the important part! Look to see where you want the wire to exit the console, I used the driver's side section. Back the two screws out and make a mental note on where you want the wires to exit. Take your time and be extra careful when performing these next tasks! Using the appropriate size bit, drill a hole in the area where the wires will exit. ONLY drill the exit hole through the first section of the plastic. DO NOT penetrate the outer section or you will ruin the console. Check the fit. If the wires do not go feed through properly use the file to size the hole. Once you have the wires fed through, refit the AFR1 where you originally placed it and screw it back into place. Replace the armrest cover by reversing your prior steps. Now, go back to the car's driver's side and replace the console. To do this, you must first feed the AFR1 wiring to the exposed section of the front console (section where the lighter and traction control is), this part is easy. Once you do that, pull the all of the remaining AFR1 wiring through. Set the console in place, but do not fasten it down.
Okay, here is where the fun begins, open the hood and remove the battery cables from the battery using the appropriate wrenches. Using the ratchet, a #10 socket, and a 7" extension remove the bolt and plastic lock, holding the battery in place. Remove the battery from the car. With the flashlight or other light source, locate the rubber grommet, which is on the firewall and should be right behind where the battery was. It should have wires in the middle of it that feed into the vehicle. Once you locate it, remove it by pulling it out. It's a little tough and you may have move it around to get it out from its location. Once you remove it, cut it in lengthwise, so that you can later insert the wires you taped earlier. Make sure not to cut the wires or your fingers! Next, move to the passenger's side foot-well. There are two things to do here. To start, remove the nut that is holding the plastic cover underneath the glove box. It is located against the firewall right in the middle and you should not have a problem with this one with the racket and socket. For the next step, you will have to lie on your back to get the best view. Remove the plastic cover underneath the glove compartment. The best method is to pull straight down close to the gray plastic fasteners. Make sure to do one at a time. You can do it with your bare hands, but be careful not to pull too hard because you may damage the wiring to the lighting. Once you're done with that you should be able to see the entrance where the wires will enter the vehicle. Get the wire you taped earlier and feed the side that has the 5-½ feet exposed from the inside out. To begin, you will only need about 3 to 4 feet just enough to pull on later. Now, feed the other end behind the console underneath the carpet towards the shifter/rear console. You may have to maneuver the wire, but his step is not hard. The carpet is held against the brake boot with Velcro, so you can guide the wire from there. Guide the wire through and out of the traction control cover (where the AFR1 wires should be coming out from too). Here the easy part. Connect the wires from the AFR1 to the wires that you taped (This is where the connectors, crimping tool, and wire stripper come in). We've all connected wires together before, so I won't go into detail. I used the following scheme:
Black to black
Yellow to yellow
Pink to pink
Shielded black to blue
Once you connect the wires accordingly, tape the wires together. Begin from where you originally left of (6 inches back). Continue to tape until you cannot fit the roll through. The reason I recommend this is because it will look factory. Go back to where you originally feed the wire underneath the carpet and pull the tight. Now you can replace the console and all the wiring. These steps should be easy, just perform the removal steps in reverse. Now go to the front of the car and pull the remaining wire through the firewall into the engine compartment. Insert the taped wire into the groummet with the other wires and insert back into position. Return to the passenger's side foot well, make sure that the wire is not in the way of anything else, if it is not replace the cover. The hard part is done.
Route the wire along the firewall, just underneath the wipers. I used some wire clips that I found a Wal-Mart that are self-adhesive. Replace the battery and lock into place. Replace the positive wire, but not the ground (save that for later). Route the wires along to the driver's side area and remove the beauty cover from the driver's side. Remove the factory tape just after the radiator shroud, so you only have to deal with the four wires coming from the MAF. Remember you will not use the purple or brown, so don't bother with these. Measure the slack and cut the taped wire, but leave some room to play with. Remove about 5 inches of tape to expose the four wires. Remember that the shielded wire is now blue! Connect the wires according to the installation instructions provided by Halltech. Once all wires are connected, tape as needed to restore a factory look. I slipped my wires back in to the factory tubing. Replace the beauty cover, replace the ground wire on the battery, and it is now time to test. Turn the key to ACC. You may get the check engine light, but don't panic! The codes I got were from the battery being disconnected. It is okay to clear these. The only codes you should be concerned with would be anything associated with the PCM. Once you clear the codes the check engine light should go off. Turn the car on. To test the AFR1, turn the dial closest to the driver (left ****) all of the way left (counter clockwise) the car should start to struggle. Return the dial to the center position. It works! Turn the car off. Finish any details and smile. Turn the car back on and allow it to relearn idle. Tune your car to your liking!
e-mail me for the pictures.
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 10:19 AM 3/29/2002]
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 11:10 AM 3/29/2002]
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 11:31 AM 3/29/2002]
03-29-2002, 12:07 PM
#4
Racer
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Member Since: Apr 2000
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 429
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Received 0 Likes
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Re: Halltech AFR1 armrest install - (dave zehak)
Lam - Thanks! I hope this write up will help with future install of this nature. It does not make sense to have to go under the hood everytime you want to adjust your air/fuel settings. Just my .02 cents. :yesnod:
Dave - Sorry I guess I should have stated that. The Halltech AFR1 is a Air/Fuel calibrator for the C5 (Z06 in my case). Once you begin to add mods, like I have, you may want to adust your air/fuel settings. For example If you add intake mods and begin to experience "lean" codes on the PCM you may have to add more fuel. I another situation, if you have a rich mixture you may want to add air. Hope this helps!
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 10:20 AM 3/29/2002]
Dave - Sorry I guess I should have stated that. The Halltech AFR1 is a Air/Fuel calibrator for the C5 (Z06 in my case). Once you begin to add mods, like I have, you may want to adust your air/fuel settings. For example If you add intake mods and begin to experience "lean" codes on the PCM you may have to add more fuel. I another situation, if you have a rich mixture you may want to add air. Hope this helps!
[Modified by y2kylwc5, 10:20 AM 3/29/2002]
