[Z06] 2002 z06 cracking plastic trim around windows
03-13-2011, 06:00 PM
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2002 z06 cracking plastic trim around windows
Has any one had a trim cracking issue with the plastic trim around the windows where the window meets the body.Also the plastic that holds the strip that holds the window seal to the door.Also are there any recalls from gm thanks.
03-13-2011, 07:56 PM
#3
Very common problem. I have an 02 with 10,000 miles. Both sides are cracked. Drivers side is just hairline, passengers side all the way through. Replacement part is $80, you have to remove the gasket to get at the screws that hold it on. I think it is caused by the screws being to tight. Most people don't notice it so mine is staying as is for now.
03-13-2011, 08:40 PM
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Very common problem. I have an 02 with 10,000 miles. Both sides are cracked. Drivers side is just hairline, passengers side all the way through. Replacement part is $80, you have to remove the gasket to get at the screws that hold it on. I think it is caused by the screws being to tight. Most people don't notice it so mine is staying as is for now.
03-13-2011, 09:30 PM
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Did a mountain cruise two weekends ago. There were 5 FRCs including a gorgeous '00 Nassau Blue FRC with factory HUD. Mine was the highest mile car yet was the only one without those cracked. To be honest, with double the miles mine was the cleanest of the bunch. 
03-14-2011, 08:52 AM
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replacing them can be a bit of a pain. You should get the replaced. My Riverside one used to leak till I had it replaced and the part new about about 115.00. Kept the old once since it was good for the most part. May try and refurbish the rubber material on it that was the source of the leak.
03-14-2011, 10:15 AM
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I plan on replacing mine soon. Has anyone posted a write up on how to replace this piece. If not I will reverse engineer it ( and probably screw up my roof).
I thought I saw post on here about a metal clip that this thing fits into and glue.
I thought I saw post on here about a metal clip that this thing fits into and glue.
03-14-2011, 04:11 PM
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You have to remove some of the factory sealant to get at the screws. One big mess I hope I don't have to go through.
One thing to consider, I usually never have my windows up since it's in the garage or cruising on nice days. I notice I'm the only one I see around with perfect molding... coincidence? Even when I park someplace, I usually leave the windows slightly cracked.
One thing to consider, I usually never have my windows up since it's in the garage or cruising on nice days. I notice I'm the only one I see around with perfect molding... coincidence? Even when I park someplace, I usually leave the windows slightly cracked.
, so not messing with it!
03-14-2011, 05:00 PM
#17
write-up
My 03 z06 with 26K miles has this on the passenger side... got it with 12K and it was present then- the other side has not cracked yet... I have not replaced it but this is what I plan to do as soon as it warms up here.. I compiled this from several threads when I researched this and combined it into a word document I am pasting here... I did not keep track of who posted what unfortunately-
I bought the 3m strip caulking from amazon if I remember correctly..
----------------------------------------------------------
For anybody with the a-pillar leak on a 1999-2004 hardtop or Z06 listen to this. New part numbers have been released for the exterior left and right side plastic a-pillar molding. I suspect this is due to faulty design in the moldings and the reason why so many people have leak problems. However, I am waitng for these moldings and can get no definite answer to when production will be complete.
The old part numbers: 10422996, 10422997
Have been replaced by: 10331562, 10331563
I had discovered this because my 2001 Z06 with 8000 miles on it leaks in the rain really bad. No damage was caused because I was lucky in catching the problem quickly. I have taken apart one side of the molding and discovered how poor the waterproofing job was done in this area of the vehicle.
What is unsatisfactory is the way the moldings are adhered to the a-pillar. There is almost no sealant to prevent water from finding a way to seep in between the fiberglass body and the plastic molding. What then happens is it does two things:
1.) water runs down the a pillar and pools in the interior a-pilar molding until it then runs down into the kick panel area then to the carpet and/or runs into the lower part of the dash board and drips down on your feet.
2.) water runs backward, forward, or both into the headliner and soaks it. Or it runs down the interior sail panel and you might see water on top of your seatbelt mechanism cover.
You may get both of these leaks, one of these leaks, or none of these leaks depending on where there is a gap in the length of adhesion of the molding to the body. If you have not experienced a leak, you are lucky, but only a small barrier of crappy sealant job separates you from getting soaked. The design works don't get me wrong, but the process on the assembly line leaves too many possible variances open including human error when applying the sealant.
I will post full picture documentation of this. The mere fact that GM released new part numbers and scrapped old production parts to keep them from being sold means they know now, or knew of a problem in the design.
Here is the link the an older thread of a member who had the same problem but could not find out the problem. This is worth reading for anyone with a C5 hardtop:
saw him carefully take the rubber gasket from the chanel around the window opening and take off the metal channel described above...he proceeded to open a box of stuff he got from the parts department and I asked him what it was and he called it "dumb dumb rope"...it was a long pack of cord like strips of dumb dumb stuck together and he carefully seperated the lengths of the stuck together strips of dumb dumb rope and laid them out on a piece of cardboard...then he took the metal channel off and carefully placed a strip across the back(near but not at the top portion) of the channel where the chanel is against the door frame. he then gently pressed it on the channel to make it stay and then he carefully put the metal chanel back into the door frame and firmly pressed it against the frame and the stuff squeezed to near the top of the channel where it meets the frame and then put the screws back in and then carefully pressed the rubber gasket back into the chanel...At that time I asked him the purpose of doing him what he just did and he told me that what he just did would solve water from seeping in behind the gasket and behind the chanel and migrating everywhere. I asked him why he put the strip of dumb dumb near the top back of the chanel and he said when he pushed it back into place that he wanted the dumb dumb to be squeezed close to the top of the chanel to prevent any water from entering from that point down. He said he had stopped many leaking problems by doing what I just watched him do and that he was the only mechanic that he knew of anywhere that used the "dumb dumb rope" like he just did...he also said that he told GM several times of his procedure to stop water leaking from around the door and they just ignored him...(he also said another area of leaking was around the window where the glass presses against the rubber and that the window can be adjusted to make a better seal against the rubber gasket).
He also did the "dumb dumb rope "procedure on the frame against the windshield (windshield pillar)
Anyway I hope this may help you...it seemed pretty easy to do if you take your time and do it precisely like he did it. It can not hurt to try this procedure and may hopefully help...its a disgusting problem and I hope it helps...
BTW...my mechanic said not to use rtv or silicone because if you go to try to remove the channel in the future that you will have a terrible mess
Dumb Dumb Rope?
it is a putty that come in strips.we use 3m brand at work to seal evap cases back on firewall after evap.or heater core replacment.
Putting my new trim on for the targa conversion I took great care to seal everything so my fingers are crossed. My steps:
1. Use rubber cement type auto adhesive to mount A-pillar molding
2. Install metal run channes with "dum dum" which is automotive sealant
3. Install all screws with dum dum to seal them like OEM
4. Install weather stripping
5. Run bead of winshield sealant between run channel and A-pillar.
My glass guy said typically water is getting behind the weather stripping and comming down the run channel.
Ok, I pulled everything apart today to start fixing it. I had to pull the weatherstripping, the metal piece that holds it and the window reveal molding. I ended up breaking the reveal molding as I was cleaning the glue, and sealing foam strip off it. I plan on trying to order a new one come Monday. I took some pictures as I have been pulling everything apart. I also removed the plastic triangle from the bottom front corner of the A-pillar. I purchased some 3M Strip-caulking to help seal everything back up. I used it to reattach the triangle sealing around and behind it. As soon as I get the reveal molding in I will continue with my progress report.
I bought the 3m strip caulking from amazon if I remember correctly..
----------------------------------------------------------
For anybody with the a-pillar leak on a 1999-2004 hardtop or Z06 listen to this. New part numbers have been released for the exterior left and right side plastic a-pillar molding. I suspect this is due to faulty design in the moldings and the reason why so many people have leak problems. However, I am waitng for these moldings and can get no definite answer to when production will be complete.
The old part numbers: 10422996, 10422997
Have been replaced by: 10331562, 10331563
I had discovered this because my 2001 Z06 with 8000 miles on it leaks in the rain really bad. No damage was caused because I was lucky in catching the problem quickly. I have taken apart one side of the molding and discovered how poor the waterproofing job was done in this area of the vehicle.
What is unsatisfactory is the way the moldings are adhered to the a-pillar. There is almost no sealant to prevent water from finding a way to seep in between the fiberglass body and the plastic molding. What then happens is it does two things:
1.) water runs down the a pillar and pools in the interior a-pilar molding until it then runs down into the kick panel area then to the carpet and/or runs into the lower part of the dash board and drips down on your feet.
2.) water runs backward, forward, or both into the headliner and soaks it. Or it runs down the interior sail panel and you might see water on top of your seatbelt mechanism cover.
You may get both of these leaks, one of these leaks, or none of these leaks depending on where there is a gap in the length of adhesion of the molding to the body. If you have not experienced a leak, you are lucky, but only a small barrier of crappy sealant job separates you from getting soaked. The design works don't get me wrong, but the process on the assembly line leaves too many possible variances open including human error when applying the sealant.
I will post full picture documentation of this. The mere fact that GM released new part numbers and scrapped old production parts to keep them from being sold means they know now, or knew of a problem in the design.
Here is the link the an older thread of a member who had the same problem but could not find out the problem. This is worth reading for anyone with a C5 hardtop:
saw him carefully take the rubber gasket from the chanel around the window opening and take off the metal channel described above...he proceeded to open a box of stuff he got from the parts department and I asked him what it was and he called it "dumb dumb rope"...it was a long pack of cord like strips of dumb dumb stuck together and he carefully seperated the lengths of the stuck together strips of dumb dumb rope and laid them out on a piece of cardboard...then he took the metal channel off and carefully placed a strip across the back(near but not at the top portion) of the channel where the chanel is against the door frame. he then gently pressed it on the channel to make it stay and then he carefully put the metal chanel back into the door frame and firmly pressed it against the frame and the stuff squeezed to near the top of the channel where it meets the frame and then put the screws back in and then carefully pressed the rubber gasket back into the chanel...At that time I asked him the purpose of doing him what he just did and he told me that what he just did would solve water from seeping in behind the gasket and behind the chanel and migrating everywhere. I asked him why he put the strip of dumb dumb near the top back of the chanel and he said when he pushed it back into place that he wanted the dumb dumb to be squeezed close to the top of the chanel to prevent any water from entering from that point down. He said he had stopped many leaking problems by doing what I just watched him do and that he was the only mechanic that he knew of anywhere that used the "dumb dumb rope" like he just did...he also said that he told GM several times of his procedure to stop water leaking from around the door and they just ignored him...(he also said another area of leaking was around the window where the glass presses against the rubber and that the window can be adjusted to make a better seal against the rubber gasket).
He also did the "dumb dumb rope "procedure on the frame against the windshield (windshield pillar)
Anyway I hope this may help you...it seemed pretty easy to do if you take your time and do it precisely like he did it. It can not hurt to try this procedure and may hopefully help...its a disgusting problem and I hope it helps...
BTW...my mechanic said not to use rtv or silicone because if you go to try to remove the channel in the future that you will have a terrible mess
Dumb Dumb Rope?
it is a putty that come in strips.we use 3m brand at work to seal evap cases back on firewall after evap.or heater core replacment.
Putting my new trim on for the targa conversion I took great care to seal everything so my fingers are crossed. My steps:
1. Use rubber cement type auto adhesive to mount A-pillar molding
2. Install metal run channes with "dum dum" which is automotive sealant
3. Install all screws with dum dum to seal them like OEM
4. Install weather stripping
5. Run bead of winshield sealant between run channel and A-pillar.
My glass guy said typically water is getting behind the weather stripping and comming down the run channel.
Ok, I pulled everything apart today to start fixing it. I had to pull the weatherstripping, the metal piece that holds it and the window reveal molding. I ended up breaking the reveal molding as I was cleaning the glue, and sealing foam strip off it. I plan on trying to order a new one come Monday. I took some pictures as I have been pulling everything apart. I also removed the plastic triangle from the bottom front corner of the A-pillar. I purchased some 3M Strip-caulking to help seal everything back up. I used it to reattach the triangle sealing around and behind it. As soon as I get the reveal molding in I will continue with my progress report.
Last edited by hpfiend; 03-14-2011 at 05:02 PM.
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03-14-2011, 06:06 PM
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03-14-2011, 07:43 PM
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