Zidane

Thanks! Really like the look of those.

sabastian458

PM- DOCZ- 1st Rate Corvette Parts & Acc. - That is who I have bought my last 2 sets of wheel from, wonderful vender to deal with too!

BLKOHZ06

I would like to see a picture of this car from the rear to see how these tires look. How wide are these. I have 18x11's and was thinking about just a 305 untill I saw this post. I'm thinking now I could go with a 315.

sabastian458

I will try to snap a few more pix of it when I can

rjwz28

You will be fine with 315s or 325s on an 11-inch wheel. 10mm is a little less than 1/2-inch, and 10.5-inch rims are fine for 315s. Just FYI.

sabastian458

Only thing I see as a potential issue is the wheel well clearance against the inside of the wheel and rim

SCALLOPED91

God, those are really good looking wheels. Since i just bought those brakes, it's nice to see how badass those brakes look. The wheels really compliment everything and make it look slick.
This is probably an issue that is already resolved but you can drop that car all the way to the point of just being able to slip one finger in between the fenderwell and tire; I wouldn't go that far because the ride quality sucks but you can. I currently run 19x11 on the back with 325/30/19's and my car was all the way down on aftermarket lowering bolts. I have z06 leaf springs and Bilstein shocks and I had no clearance issues. I bought the car lowered that far and with those wheels; I changed the springs, shocks, sway bar end links, sway bars (c6 z06 front & back), and I raised the car to get the fender off the wheel. But long story short, you can lower the living hell out of the car without any rubbing anywhere.

yarberrymt

OEM suspension is soft and allows alot of movement, increasing the chance that you'll make contact.

Also - lowering on OEM bolts and dampers makes the car ride more rough.

Also - lowering the car too much negatively impacts camber curves, suspension geometry, travel and comfort.


I have G2 coilovers and ended up raising mine back up a bit for all the reasons above. Keep that in mind.

sabastian458

I'm on stock bolts, and Bilstein's that are made for a lowered car. I don't want any lower as the car scraped a fair amount already and the front air dam is 2.5-3 inches of the ground.

My front tires rubbed the brake cooling ducts when in a turn, had to trim 1/4 inch off them. Also the rears would touch the rear ducts on the side walls. Had to remove the ducts. Now the side walls will barely rub on the frame rail when in a hard turn (side wall flex). I think changing the alignment in the rear to have 0 toe verse the sligh inward toe will fix that. Normal driving there is zero issues.

fuggles

Your front looks to be stock height. I run 275/40/17 which is slightly taller than your tire. Gap looks similar. The rear is hard to tell. I doubt it's lowered. You would have to measure.

I would not run 0 toe in the back. It will get squirrely under acceleration. You need some toe in for compression in the rear.

sabastian458

It already gets squirrelly" under accel, lol But I know what you mean. Realistically I need to get a 5mm hubcentric spacer and some arp studs to "fix"it. The car sits slightly lower that the pic, after settling. I have just barely room to fit one of the Harbor Frieght race jacks and a piece of 2x4 under the car, if I put the 2x4 under the car first in the jack puck location the slide the jack under. I couldn't imagine it going lower and not destroying the under side of the car.

SCALLOPED91

Not worth it; I can't fit anything but the jack under the car, no pucks. Yup, sucks. I've got a blower and run flats with a 325/30 profile; this sucker is not built for acceleration. That's fixing to change. Michelin sport cup 2's and they won't be run flats. Lowered looks great until you drive by a penny on the road and pick it up with the front of your car and drag it.