Zeppelin654

I'm gona try and keep this updated….I will be installing some LG streets within the next week or so, along with an ECS tune. I'll also be changing the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new tires, and changing the oil, clutch, tranny and diff fluids. I'm still waiting on my jack stands, but I figured I'd let you guys know…..haha you probably don't care, but I'm excited.

The Z they're going on:


The LG's:



The jack (this thing is nice!! 105 lbs of pure Denmark beauty):


The Nitto NT555R's 305/35/18:


A video of the current set-up (intake and SLP loudmouths):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iXzBShMsfk

If you guys have any advice, things I should watch for, or suggestions about doing the install of the LG streets, please let me know. Any input on what to do with the A.I.R. system is greatly welcomed. As you can see the headers are already blocked off, but I don't want to have to remove the intake manifold to remove the A.I.R. Can I just remove the pump and the tubing to the drivers side and leave the rest? Thats one of the things I'm stumped on. BTW: I will be using the ls1how.com install instructions. Thanks again

I'm excited and can't wait to hear it with em on

Bad Karma

Were 3 bolt flanges welded to the headers? I thought the pictures I'd seen of LG Streets, they were slip fit at the collector, not flanged.

imavettegirl

you will love how they will wake up your Z06.

good luck with the install.

Zeppelin654

the flanges were welded, as were the cat delete pipes. This was done to prevent any leaks in the system. Should work like a charm.

Thanks for the good luck wishes….hopefully the install goes without any hickups

imavettegirl

i wanted to add that millennium yellow is one of my favorite Z06 colors, right next to my torch red Z06.

looks great with the black wheels.

Edmond

Not only will you feel the increase in power, you will also notice an audible difference as well.

It's pretty much a straight up install. Just don't do what I did and cross the O2 sensors!

01Swc5z

good luck man, hope all goes well!

BlueTeamZ06

I hope you tested the clearances of the o2 from the opposite pipe and tunnel before you welded them. Mine fit very tight and needed some playing around with the rotation and position of the pipes so they wouldn't touch the opposite exhaust. BTW- you do NOT want them touching the opposite side exhaust, it will melt the wires...

USA_Z

Good luck with the install. I'll be doing the same next month once I get my Z out of storage.

imavettegirl

from the pics it looks like the system is used.

was it welded up when installed in another C5?

Zeppelin654

Alrighty guys. I started tonight. First off, they are used and were previously installed on an 02 Z, so they should bolt right up with no issues. I've been following the ls1howto to the "T." I have not had any hickups yet (cross fingers). Everything has been going pretty smooth. I only got a little done tonight because my jack stands havent come in yet and it was cold as he11.

Heres an exhaust video BEFORE:
[IMG][/IMG]

Heres the fuel rail covers off. The AIR on drivers side out.


Coil packs are off, spark plug wires, and alternator are out. Manifold bolts loosened up with ease.


I feel very confident everything will fit right up with no problems.

Couple questions though: Can I just kinda leave the passenger side AIR kinda "hanging there" and not bolt it up since nothings feeding it (as I removed the pump and hoses to the drivers side which feeds the passenger side)?

Also, my header AIR ports are blocked off. Could I simply bolt the passenger side air tube to the block off plate and use that block off plate as a "support" for the AIR so it doesn't bounce around?

I ask how I can leave it there because I don't really want to hassle removing the intake manifold just to remove the passenger side AIR. Maybe I should though, because I'm going to be replacing the oil pressure sensor while I'm in there (I was going to try it without removing the manifold….gota do it though because the DIC is showing 80 psi !!)

Thanks guys.

If you have any suggestions, please feel free to let me know. Its my first time, so I may need some help (haha I feel like I just said that to a girl when I was 16 haha…)

Zeppelin654

OH. Btw, my lights are going crazy (as you can see in the video) and my security light keeps flashing. It started doing that right after I installed my led reverse lights. I think theres a short in there somewhere? Could that make the lights do that? All the interior lights are flashing and going crazy…It'd be real nice to get that fixed haha because it makes me feel like I'm driving some POS when in fact I'm inside a bada$$ Z. Any ideas? Thanks again

Zeppelin654

Yo, Guys ONE MORE THING. I was given a set of used multi-layer gaskets with the headers. I would like to get new ones. The headers are LG streets. Where is the best place to get gaskets? Also, can I just get them for a "C5"? OR does it have to be LS1? The headers, of course, have round ports. Thanks. I want to get these quick so I can get on with the install! Thanks again

neutron82

you can remove the block off plates from the headers and install your air tubes to the headers or leave the block off plates installed and remove the air pump, tubes, etc and when you have it tuned you can have the codes deleted so your ses light won't be on and you will pass inspection... as far as the flickering lights you might check your battery, that is notorious for causing problems like that... if the battery is good then try installing the factory reverse lights and see what happens... and for the exhaust gaskets just get oem gm mls gaskets from the dealer... they will run about $20 for the pair and are probably the best ones you can get... ls1/ls6 it's all the same gasket... good luck on your install... my lg super pros are being coated at jethot and i will start tearing my z down within the next couple of weeks and doing the same thing

BlueTeamZ06

1- Get the round LS1 gaskets. IIRC they are actually listed as the ones for the LS1 camaro. Doesn't matter, just get the round ones...

2- DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE!!!

neutron82

he said the alternator was out so surely he has already disconnected the battery, i would hope so anyway

Zeppelin654

Yes the battery is disconnected and the alternator is out. Would it be bad to attach the passenger side AIR tube ON TOP OF the block off plate on the headers so I don't have to remove the intake to take it out? It would be supported that way too and nothing would be going to the AIR b/c its disconnected.

About the lights flashing, I think my drivers side reverse light bulb socket is not making a good connection.... Could a bad connection make the lights go crazy and cause the security to flash?

neutron82

i suppose you could as long as the bolts are long enough but it might look kinda ghetto with one side missing and the other side there... if it were me i would just remove it the right way, especially since you said you need to replace the oil pressure sending unit... as far as your lights i don't know... i would start out by checking the battery and swapping the stock bulbs back in as i stated above... if that doesn't fix anything then i would check and clean the grounds

Zeppelin654

Ok gents

An update.

I used the AC jack and esco jack stands to lift the car about two feet off the ground:



Wheels are off (needed to change rear tires out):


Stock H pipe is out:


Manifolds are out:


I took the intake manifold out to remove the AIR and to also change the oil pressure sensor (damn my motor was dirty. I just bought it last October….previous owner must have been driving it like it was meant to be driven):


Here are some pics of the valve springs I uncovered and where I left off tonight (didn't get anything done last night b/c I was waiting for the jack stands):





Things are going well. I gota tell you guys though…..Now that I have all this hardware out/off of the motor, I really want to do a cam and POSSIBLY a cam and heads swap…haha. I know thats a huge change of plans, but I wanted to do it at some point, and what better time than now, when I already have the intake manifold out, exhaust out, etc… Its crazy how once you start doing something (and realize "I can do it") you get carried away. Now that I have the rims off, I want to change my rotors and pads too (giro 2 piece rotors and carbotech bobcat pads)…haha…the costs just keep adding up...

I don't know if I want to splurge for the heads just yet, but as I said….I'm literally right there in position to do it.

I'll be honest. Half the reason I want to do a cam swap, if for the lope. The other half is so I can smoke my buddies Cobra (you can see a little of it in the one pic) haha. So,….I'm kinda in it mostly for the sound….which makes me want to just leave the 243's on there as well as the stock intake manifold and TB and save some money (another 1500 for a fast 102 setup is a little pricey for minimal gains). I'm NOT looking for a dyno king here or drag car HP specs, …I just want a little more power and sound (kinda why I'm leaning away from new heads….and saving $1-1500)

I want a really large cam. I am worried how long my clutch will last though. How dumb is it to want something in the 260/260 range with stock internals and stock clutch? I don't track the car or drag it…..just occasional spirited driving (only about 3-4,000 miles a year too). Think it would hold up for a reasonable amount of time?

I'm liking the bigger cams from theair-charger.com and England Green.

I'd like to hear some input guys. And I will mention that I am a 23 year old. I feel like I'm falling into a bad stereotype of young kids just wanting a crazy lope, but it is kinda true. I DO NOT mind sacrificing some low end/city drivability.

Thanks guys. I want to decide soon so I can continue with the build and have her ready for spring!

Zeppelin654

maybe the smart thing would be to wait until I have a good clutch/hydraulics, drivetrain upgrades, and maybe gears before I jump into a cam/heads/etc… eh? I don't want to have to do a clutch yet, and if I spend all the time and money on a cam swap and then can't drive it because something in the drivetrain is broken or the clutch is toast…..what fun is that? The Z's pretty damn fast as it is….or at least fast enough to get me in big trouble any time I get into her….haha

Any thoughts or comments on the build/plans/ideas/progress?

Thanks again for the help

AND…I took it all apart in about 6 hours (to do everything including jacking the car etc…), SO if I do decide to do the cam later, it wouldn't be that much of a chore. HAHA I'm somethin else huh? ….I might have already talked myself out of a cam "now."

Can yo guys maybe help me make up my mind please? What is the "smart plan"? Little by little? (headers now, enjoy it, then cam later…maybe)

Thanks again