[Z06] just bought a 01 anything i should be wary of?
#1
Drifting
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just bought a 01 anything i should be wary of?
just bought a 2001 z06 with 30k on it anything i should keep my eyes on or do for general maintenance?
#3
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Every car I buy I always: change the plugs and wires, clean the throttle body, new air filter, change engine oil and filter, flush brake fluid, flush clutch fluid, change transmission fluid, change rear end gear oil, I often times change the belts, fuel filter (when applicable), go over the exhaust system and check the bolts (often times some are loose). I always go over the suspension and look for worn bushings and anything that just looks off.
Wobble harmonic balancer is almost guaranteed on a C5/C6. Not anything to really worry about unless the wobble is extreme. Just my experience
Wobble harmonic balancer is almost guaranteed on a C5/C6. Not anything to really worry about unless the wobble is extreme. Just my experience
#6
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Some 2001 Zs have been known to use oil at a faster rate. It has to do with the rings. You can search for it on the forum and you should find plenty of reading material.
Also check the color of the clutch fluid. If it is black suck the fluid out of the clutch master cylinder and fill with new brake fluid. Drive the car for a day or two and do it again. Keep doing this until the fluid stays reasonably clean. This will help prevent the well known problem of the clutch pedal staying on the floor after a couple of high RPM shifts.
Welcome to the group.
It looks like you have a great color 85. Did you keep it? I have a 2002 Electron Blue Z06 and a 1992 Black Rose coupe. Make sure to get on the NW regional forum and hope to see you at one of our gatherings.
Also check the color of the clutch fluid. If it is black suck the fluid out of the clutch master cylinder and fill with new brake fluid. Drive the car for a day or two and do it again. Keep doing this until the fluid stays reasonably clean. This will help prevent the well known problem of the clutch pedal staying on the floor after a couple of high RPM shifts.
Welcome to the group.
It looks like you have a great color 85. Did you keep it? I have a 2002 Electron Blue Z06 and a 1992 Black Rose coupe. Make sure to get on the NW regional forum and hope to see you at one of our gatherings.
Last edited by Kmcoldcars; 12-01-2013 at 11:59 AM.
#7
Drifting
They are much faster then advertise.
Mark
Mark
#8
Race Director
wobble doesn't apply to the same degree in our location. i live in hillsboro oregon which is a similar climate to where you do. our environment just isn't that hard on rubber compared to the midwest or corrosive climates. that's not to say they don't fail here, it's just that it's much less common
the oil burning is really the only issue with the 01. if you use mobil1 i would switch to the high mileage variant as it has a higher zddp level. this is easier on rings and on the lifters & bearings. similar formula to what the cars used back in 2001 before the standard mobil1 {and others} were zddp restricted by the epa
quick list of what you should change and check
1. Wix fuel filter 33737 $34.28
2. trans and rear end fluid
3. brake and clutch fluid
4. inspect coolant hoses for any signs of near failure. when hoses are over 10 years old they are on borrowed time
5. pcv valve, clean with brake clean or replace
6. tires, check the date code. if you care about performance replace if over 4 years old.
7. remove the fans and use an air compressor to blow out 12+ years of crap from the radiator
depending on the condition of your clutch fluid you may need to ranger it 10-20 times and or do a proper bleeding. ATE super blue or typ200 tend to be the go-to for clutch fluid. also works well for your brakes and the containers are large enough to do both with ease
the suggestion for hoses isn't a bad one, however, beings the car is 12 years old, unless you see an issue i would probably save and just replace the entire cooling system. waterpump, radiator, all coolant hoses. the reason why is that plastic tank rads get really brittle with age and heat cycles and waterpumps have seals that harden. your rad may live longer since it's low mileage but everything else dies with age.
part numbers and cost for your cooling system are
Ac delco 20889 radiator $188.16
Ac delco water pump 251-744 $177.61
Ac delco water pump inlet w/ stat 15-11057 $29.30
Ac delco 18021L hose $27.52
Ac delco 24388L hose $25.35
Ac delco 24458L hose $14.59
GM hose 10229491 $24
Gates 18127 $12.62
smallest 5/8" heater hose you can find. each batch is different and gates for one has made 5/8" hose that measures 9/16" you'll need 2ft and or buy the GM hose at $10 a foot to go into the plastic tank
GM coolant tank 10430189 $69.95
the oil burning is really the only issue with the 01. if you use mobil1 i would switch to the high mileage variant as it has a higher zddp level. this is easier on rings and on the lifters & bearings. similar formula to what the cars used back in 2001 before the standard mobil1 {and others} were zddp restricted by the epa
quick list of what you should change and check
1. Wix fuel filter 33737 $34.28
2. trans and rear end fluid
3. brake and clutch fluid
4. inspect coolant hoses for any signs of near failure. when hoses are over 10 years old they are on borrowed time
5. pcv valve, clean with brake clean or replace
6. tires, check the date code. if you care about performance replace if over 4 years old.
7. remove the fans and use an air compressor to blow out 12+ years of crap from the radiator
depending on the condition of your clutch fluid you may need to ranger it 10-20 times and or do a proper bleeding. ATE super blue or typ200 tend to be the go-to for clutch fluid. also works well for your brakes and the containers are large enough to do both with ease
the suggestion for hoses isn't a bad one, however, beings the car is 12 years old, unless you see an issue i would probably save and just replace the entire cooling system. waterpump, radiator, all coolant hoses. the reason why is that plastic tank rads get really brittle with age and heat cycles and waterpumps have seals that harden. your rad may live longer since it's low mileage but everything else dies with age.
part numbers and cost for your cooling system are
Ac delco 20889 radiator $188.16
Ac delco water pump 251-744 $177.61
Ac delco water pump inlet w/ stat 15-11057 $29.30
Ac delco 18021L hose $27.52
Ac delco 24388L hose $25.35
Ac delco 24458L hose $14.59
GM hose 10229491 $24
Gates 18127 $12.62
smallest 5/8" heater hose you can find. each batch is different and gates for one has made 5/8" hose that measures 9/16" you'll need 2ft and or buy the GM hose at $10 a foot to go into the plastic tank
GM coolant tank 10430189 $69.95
Last edited by racebum; 12-01-2013 at 03:39 PM.
#9
Drifting
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i plan on getting a lift in the next couple months so i was gonna hold off on tranny and diff fluid (do i need lsd additive?) so even though its at 30k you recommend half synth high mile oil?
#10
Race Director
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
this is the pdf from mobil 1 showing what's in each of their oils ^ you may notice the high mile variant merely brings the zinc/phos up to levels porsche calls for in their special oil
there are various oils that work in the rear end. the one i went to was redline 75-90w which has LSD slip mixed in. it works really well with the factory lsd and gives you great lockup and no turning chatter. if you use redline in the gearbox it would be the D4 ATF. also note redline has a 75-90NS oil that has no lsd additive. the NS means no slip or is rumored to mean that. don't get this one. you want the 75-90w with the additive. i think there is a blip on the bottle that says compatible with lsd axles
amsoil has a strong marketing presence on this forum so i'm sure one of the guys can suggest what oils of theirs work well beings they are more or less the prime competitor to redline
Last edited by racebum; 12-01-2013 at 05:04 PM.
#12
Le Mans Master
it's the additive pack in the high mile oil. it's similar to the better mobil1 that was sold in the 90s. the stuff today as been limited by the epa. high mileage has not. it's a marketing thing. the oil between the two isn't any different, it's only the additive pack in high mile.
#13
Le Mans Master
the suggestion for hoses isn't a bad one, however, beings the car is 12 years old, unless you see an issue i would probably save and just replace the entire cooling system. waterpump, radiator, all coolant hoses. the reason why is that plastic tank rads get really brittle with age and heat cycles and waterpumps have seals that harden. your rad may live longer since it's low mileage but everything else dies with age.
#15
Burning Brakes
Damn. I LOVE my '01. 53k on the clock.
I have had to change my knock sensor seals and a couple pullies. I have also heard about a "leaky butt" issue from the diff. which I may be encountering now.
All in all it is way fine by me because this thing sees it all!
Not one regret.
I use Amsoil 10w-30 and haven't noticed any crazy burning of oil.
You gonna love it.
I have had to change my knock sensor seals and a couple pullies. I have also heard about a "leaky butt" issue from the diff. which I may be encountering now.
All in all it is way fine by me because this thing sees it all!
Not one regret.
I use Amsoil 10w-30 and haven't noticed any crazy burning of oil.
You gonna love it.
#17
Race Director
i mean i get this. it's just rubber in general begins to fail with age. 99% of people drive their car more than 24k miles in 13 years so most the testing that is out there is based on 100-150k miles at that age...which of course means stuff is ready to fail
#18
Le Mans Master
This 01 only has 30K miles, so it would be in the same boat as mine. I think a lot of the rubber going bad is due more to heat cycling than age, but age does play a factor.
#19
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#20
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For high ZDDP oil that doesn't meet current API SN (or dexos1 or the superseded GM4718M) specs, this is the fluid I'd consider:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)
This oil is very similar to AMSOIL's racing 10w30 I use in my 02 Z06 at the track. The Z-ROD does have detergent/dispersant sufficient for 3-5k (or one year, whichever first) oil change intervals whereas I change the racing oil about every 500 miles or so.
AMSOIL's best "street" oil does comply with API SN and dexos1 limitations on phosphorus (800 ppm max):
AMSOIL Signature Series 100% Synthetic 5w30 (Product Code ASLQT)
For your tranny and diff, same products I use in my 02 at the track:
AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (Product Code ATD1G)
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (Product Code SVGQT)
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
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C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
AMSOIL Catalog