[Z06] 408ci Broken c5z axle
#1
408ci Broken c5z axle
Went to the track for the first time with my 408ci c5z that I recently purchased. First pass I spun like crazy. Second pass I slipped the clutch a tad too much. 3rd try SNAP, broke the outer cv I think. The car is also on a 28'' nt05r (i think the radial might be the problem, not as forgiving as a slick) and has a RPM built trans and diff. So do I purchase another oem c5z axle and buy a 16'' rear ccw set up or buy DSS 1000hp axle kit. Then buy ccw drag pack later on. both options will be around same price.
#2
Pro
I would do the c5z axle over the stronger ones, I would much rather have the axle be the weak link since their easier to replace than the diff and the ccw's with a bias ply would be easier on it also
#3
Melting Slicks
Went to the track for the first time with my 408ci c5z that I recently purchased. First pass I spun like crazy. Second pass I slipped the clutch a tad too much. 3rd try SNAP, broke the outer cv I think. The car is also on a 28'' nt05r (i think the radial might be the problem, not as forgiving as a slick) and has a RPM built trans and diff. So do I purchase another oem c5z axle and buy a 16'' rear ccw set up or buy DSS 1000hp axle kit. Then buy ccw drag pack later on. both options will be around same price.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5PRtxNYOQY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGN9LC6-914
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5PRtxNYOQY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGN9LC6-914
Contact Jeremy from RPM, he'll set you in the best-bang-for-the-buck option. He can also source GM parts as well, so he might be able to save you some $
#4
Even with an Rpm Stage 4 diff? I know anything can happen. I keep going back and forth on this haha. I would think the diff would hold up to my power level. Maybe it was a freak thing snapping the axle, I was told they been 8.70s.
#5
Former Vendor
Normally the C5Z06 axles work very well. Ive had quite a few customers go really fast with stick shift cars on them. But I'll be honest. The only time I ever broke my C5 at the drag strip I was on a drag radial. Once I switched to a bias ply all my breakage went away.
What rear gear is in the car now? A 28" tall tires puts a lot of stress on the driveline.
This is the first clean pass with my 430ci LS7 in the car. It ended up going 10.3X@138mph.
This is with the heads/cam LS6.
What rear gear is in the car now? A 28" tall tires puts a lot of stress on the driveline.
This is the first clean pass with my 430ci LS7 in the car. It ended up going 10.3X@138mph.
This is with the heads/cam LS6.
#6
The car came with the 28 when I bought it, I was told it had a 4.10 in it. It does seem like I have to shift into 4th 100-150 feet before the finish. But its hard to tell since i did not get a clean pass in.
The following users liked this post:
c5zJoe (05-24-2017)
#8
I think I will just buy another oem c5z axle and do a 16" bias ply set up and see what happens would hate to break again at the track since I don't always have the option to trailer the car. I also have a MSD 2 step laying around from my old car. When you launch on the slick do you do a fast controlled release? basically slip it just a little? Thanks!
#9
Former Vendor
I think I will just buy another oem c5z axle and do a 16" bias ply set up and see what happens would hate to break again at the track since I don't always have the option to trailer the car. I also have a MSD 2 step laying around from my old car. When you launch on the slick do you do a fast controlled release? basically slip it just a little? Thanks!
As for the launch method I would drive the car into the pre-stage beams, then bring the rpm up to my desired launch rpm. Then I would slowly release the clutch till the car starts to creep into the stage beams. Then I would press the clutch just enough to get the car to stop rolling. Then I would release the clutch quickly but allowing my foot to stay on the pedal while applying throttle. This prevented shocking the driveline and achived low 1.4 60ft times.
#10
AMP Racing
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Jeremy has some good advice here.
Stick cars and radials don't play well together.
A 26" bias tire would very likely work better for you, but you should really run with skinnys up front if you have a bias tire in the back.
As far as axles go, I've been 1.27 to the 60' on an OEM axle. I know others have been 1.20.
Sometimes you can find them used on here, or at a salvage yard vs buying new from GM.
I carry an extra one to the track just in case. Less than 45 minutes to change out vs repairing a diff.
Best of success to you!
Stick cars and radials don't play well together.
A 26" bias tire would very likely work better for you, but you should really run with skinnys up front if you have a bias tire in the back.
As far as axles go, I've been 1.27 to the 60' on an OEM axle. I know others have been 1.20.
Sometimes you can find them used on here, or at a salvage yard vs buying new from GM.
I carry an extra one to the track just in case. Less than 45 minutes to change out vs repairing a diff.
Best of success to you!
The following users liked this post:
Jeremy@RPMTransmissions (05-25-2017)