Step by Step Aux Input Added to Nav Instructions
#21
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Blazer
Patrick,
I forwarded your concern to Joe Riggs at PAC Audio and here is his response to the BCM/PCM flashing issues. I believe all is well.
Pete,
There are no issues when flashing the PCM/BCM with the AAI-GM24 installed, yes, there were some issues with the older versions but we have fixed the issue. It’s good to hear things are still working great for you. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me whenever.
Thank you,
Joe Riggs
Tech Support
Pacific Accessory Corp
I forwarded your concern to Joe Riggs at PAC Audio and here is his response to the BCM/PCM flashing issues. I believe all is well.
Pete,
There are no issues when flashing the PCM/BCM with the AAI-GM24 installed, yes, there were some issues with the older versions but we have fixed the issue. It’s good to hear things are still working great for you. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me whenever.
Thank you,
Joe Riggs
Tech Support
Pacific Accessory Corp
Patrick
#22
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 2,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Blazer / Teamspeed - need your help!
I want to modify the PAC GM 24 to feed the audio to a LS6 line level adaptor. Can you help with the PAC GM 24 modifications? I have the 1SB with nav and there are lots of us that this will solve not being able to hear our music with the roof off! Thanks for all you two have already done!
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Fort Wayne Indiana
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by Steve Germany
I want to modify the PAC GM 24 to feed the audio to a LS6 line level adaptor. Can you help with the PAC GM 24 modifications? I have the 1SB with nav and there are lots of us that this will solve not being able to hear our music with the roof off! Thanks for all you two have already done!
#24
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 2,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes that is exactly what I want to do. I was wondering if you had the pin outs from the HU (GM 24 harness) and if I need to cut the harness wires for each speaker or if I should tap into the each wire in order to connect to the LS6 (and thus to my amps).
My understanding is that I need to leave many of the connections in place (antenna trigger, amp power etc) and pass them through the PAC GM 24 so that the rest of the integrated conponents still operate. Is this correct?
Bottom line questions...
1) Can I just cut the speaker wires on the PAC GM24 harness and feed them to the LS6 or do I have to tap the wires, and
2) Could you post the speaker pin outs from the HU 24 pin harness? I have two conflicting sets of pin outs and I really trust your insight.
Thanks!!!
My understanding is that I need to leave many of the connections in place (antenna trigger, amp power etc) and pass them through the PAC GM 24 so that the rest of the integrated conponents still operate. Is this correct?
Bottom line questions...
1) Can I just cut the speaker wires on the PAC GM24 harness and feed them to the LS6 or do I have to tap the wires, and
2) Could you post the speaker pin outs from the HU 24 pin harness? I have two conflicting sets of pin outs and I really trust your insight.
Thanks!!!
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Fort Wayne Indiana
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by Steve Germany
Yes that is exactly what I want to do. I was wondering if you had the pin outs from the HU (GM 24 harness) and if I need to cut the harness wires for each speaker or if I should tap into the each wire in order to connect to the LS6 (and thus to my amps).
My understanding is that I need to leave many of the connections in place (antenna trigger, amp power etc) and pass them through the PAC GM 24 so that the rest of the integrated conponents still operate. Is this correct?
Bottom line questions...
1) Can I just cut the speaker wires on the PAC GM24 harness and feed them to the LS6 or do I have to tap the wires, and
2) Could you post the speaker pin outs from the HU 24 pin harness? I have two conflicting sets of pin outs and I really trust your insight.
Thanks!!!
My understanding is that I need to leave many of the connections in place (antenna trigger, amp power etc) and pass them through the PAC GM 24 so that the rest of the integrated conponents still operate. Is this correct?
Bottom line questions...
1) Can I just cut the speaker wires on the PAC GM24 harness and feed them to the LS6 or do I have to tap the wires, and
2) Could you post the speaker pin outs from the HU 24 pin harness? I have two conflicting sets of pin outs and I really trust your insight.
Thanks!!!
12 way connector
Pin A - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B - Gray - Radio Vehicle Noise Compression Enable Signal
Pin C - Not Used
Pin D - Dark Green/White Tracer - Vehicle Speed Signal (Denso Radios)
Pin E - Not Used
Pin F - Not Used
Pin G - Not Used
Pin H - Dark Green/White Tracer - Right Audio Signal
Pin J - Brown/White Tracer - Left Audio Signal
Pin K - Tan/White Tracer - Audio Common
Pin L - Light Blue - Remote Playback Device Audio Common Signal (UL2/UE1)
Pin M - Orange/Blck Tracer - Remote Playback Device Audio Signal (UL2/UE1)
24 way connector - Row A on Top side, Row B on Bottom Side
Pin A1 - Orange - Class 2 Data Bus
Pin A2 - Not Used
Pin A3 - Not Used
Pin A4 - Yellow - FM Composite Signal
Pin A5 - Not Used
Pin A6 - Not Used
Pin A7 - Not Used
Pin A8 - Tan - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A9 - Dark Green - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A10 - Tan - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A11 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A12 - Black/White Tracer - Ground
Pin B1 - Red/White Tracer - Battery Positive Voltage
Pin B2 - Not Used
Pin B3 - White - Antenna Enable Signal
Pin B4 - Not Used
Pin B5 - Not Used
Pin B6 - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B7 - Not Used
Pin B8 - Brown/White Tracer - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B9 - Brown - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B10 - Light Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B11 - Dark Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B12 - Not Used
PAC AAI-GM24 Wiring:
White wire - Right Audio Signal (Line Level)
Gray wire - Left Audio Signal (Line Level)
Black wire - Audio Common Ground
Purple wire - Class 2 Data Bus
#26
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 2,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Blazer
Pin-outs for the Nav radio:
12 way connector
Pin A - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B - Gray - Radio Vehicle Noise Compression Enable Signal
Pin C - Not Used
Pin D - Dark Green/White Tracer - Vehicle Speed Signal (Denso Radios)
Pin E - Not Used
Pin F - Not Used
Pin G - Not Used
Pin H - Dark Green/White Tracer - Right Audio Signal
Pin J - Brown/White Tracer - Left Audio Signal
Pin K - Tan/White Tracer - Audio Common
Pin L - Light Blue - Remote Playback Device Audio Common Signal (UL2/UE1)
Pin M - Orange/Blck Tracer - Remote Playback Device Audio Signal (UL2/UE1)
24 way connector - Row A on Top side, Row B on Bottom Side
Pin A1 - Orange - Class 2 Data Bus
Pin A2 - Not Used
Pin A3 - Not Used
Pin A4 - Yellow - FM Composite Signal
Pin A5 - Not Used
Pin A6 - Not Used
Pin A7 - Not Used
Pin A8 - Tan - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A9 - Dark Green - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A10 - Tan - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A11 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A12 - Black/White Tracer - Ground
Pin B1 - Red/White Tracer - Battery Positive Voltage
Pin B2 - Not Used
Pin B3 - White - Antenna Enable Signal
Pin B4 - Not Used
Pin B5 - Not Used
Pin B6 - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B7 - Not Used
Pin B8 - Brown/White Tracer - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B9 - Brown - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B10 - Light Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B11 - Dark Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B12 - Not Used
PAC AAI-GM24 Wiring:
White wire - Right Audio Signal (Line Level)
Gray wire - Left Audio Signal (Line Level)
Black wire - Audio Common Ground
Purple wire - Class 2 Data Bus
12 way connector
Pin A - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B - Gray - Radio Vehicle Noise Compression Enable Signal
Pin C - Not Used
Pin D - Dark Green/White Tracer - Vehicle Speed Signal (Denso Radios)
Pin E - Not Used
Pin F - Not Used
Pin G - Not Used
Pin H - Dark Green/White Tracer - Right Audio Signal
Pin J - Brown/White Tracer - Left Audio Signal
Pin K - Tan/White Tracer - Audio Common
Pin L - Light Blue - Remote Playback Device Audio Common Signal (UL2/UE1)
Pin M - Orange/Blck Tracer - Remote Playback Device Audio Signal (UL2/UE1)
24 way connector - Row A on Top side, Row B on Bottom Side
Pin A1 - Orange - Class 2 Data Bus
Pin A2 - Not Used
Pin A3 - Not Used
Pin A4 - Yellow - FM Composite Signal
Pin A5 - Not Used
Pin A6 - Not Used
Pin A7 - Not Used
Pin A8 - Tan - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A9 - Dark Green - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A10 - Tan - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A11 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A12 - Black/White Tracer - Ground
Pin B1 - Red/White Tracer - Battery Positive Voltage
Pin B2 - Not Used
Pin B3 - White - Antenna Enable Signal
Pin B4 - Not Used
Pin B5 - Not Used
Pin B6 - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B7 - Not Used
Pin B8 - Brown/White Tracer - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B9 - Brown - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B10 - Light Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B11 - Dark Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B12 - Not Used
PAC AAI-GM24 Wiring:
White wire - Right Audio Signal (Line Level)
Gray wire - Left Audio Signal (Line Level)
Black wire - Audio Common Ground
Purple wire - Class 2 Data Bus
#28
Intermediate
And no issues with using both the NAV, XM Radio and the Aux input? (Not at the same time, of course). Does the select button step through to allow the selection of XM or Aux?
#29
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by sethracer
And no issues with using both the NAV, XM Radio and the Aux input? (Not at the same time, of course). Does the select button step through to allow the selection of XM or Aux?
#30
Advanced
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Oakville ON
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone have a problem with putting this in a 6 speed car? I followed these instructions to the 'T' and am getting dead batteries. I know its just from the installation of this cause I took it out for a week and didn't have a dead battery, day after I put it back in, of course got a dead battery. Anyways just wondering if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks.
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Fort Wayne Indiana
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by sethracer
And no issues with using both the NAV, XM Radio and the Aux input? (Not at the same time, of course). Does the select button step through to allow the selection of XM or Aux?
#33
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2001
Location: Walnut Creek CA
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
blazer, hey i just got the parts in and i am somewhat confused. What are the modifications that teamspeed is doing? i want to do them to the gm24 adaptor i just received. I just got back in from out of town and cant wait to make this all work.
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Fort Wayne Indiana
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by DaveZeltser
blazer, hey i just got the parts in and i am somewhat confused. What are the modifications that teamspeed is doing? i want to do them to the gm24 adaptor i just received. I just got back in from out of town and cant wait to make this all work.
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
#35
Advanced
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Pickerington OH
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by matty98ws6
Anyone have a problem with putting this in a 6 speed car? I followed these instructions to the 'T' and am getting dead batteries. I know its just from the installation of this cause I took it out for a week and didn't have a dead battery, day after I put it back in, of course got a dead battery. Anyways just wondering if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks.
#36
Racer
Originally Posted by matty98ws6
Anyone have a problem with putting this in a 6 speed car? I followed these instructions to the 'T' and am getting dead batteries. I know its just from the installation of this cause I took it out for a week and didn't have a dead battery, day after I put it back in, of course got a dead battery. Anyways just wondering if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks.
The pinB1 (oem red/white tracers), that the gm24 yellow wire connects to, is constant power in the manual c6, so when you hookup the gm24 unit it's draining the battery.
You have to find an alternate rap power source, or hookup a relay.
I myself have not tested all the harness plugs with the volt meter to see what their state is during engine-running or total shutdown with and without the gm24 unit to verify this.
I just took my gm24 unit out and have been fine for quite some time now.
#38
Racer
Originally Posted by Steve Germany
Not too difficult to find a switched power source from the fuse pannel under the passenger's foot well.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...9&forum_id=101
(hope that link works - if not, do a search for "12v")
I did the add-a-circuit method, connect to the "wiper/htd-seat relay" fuse. Ran the gm24 unit as normal, except the "gm24 yellow" power line to the fuse panel with add-a-circuit.
Aux-audio only available when the engine is running. Runs great. No battery drain.
#39
Pro
Isn't there a switched power source at the radio? Even the manual transmission shuts the radio off when the car is off.
Last edited by Periokid; 09-14-2005 at 01:54 PM.
#40
Racer
Originally Posted by Periokid
Isn't there a switched power source at the radio? Even the manual transmission shuts the radio off when the car is off.
Unfortunately, it was found that the the power feeding into the radio is constant power. The gm24 unit, which was tapping into that, was thusly running my battery down.
The auto c6's don't have this same problem, and can be tapped into the radios power line using the manufacturers instructions verbatim.
I'm sure they'll figure something out, but for the time being...tap into the fuse.
(the above was confirmed by pac audio in conversation, and myself in implimentation both ways)