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DIY Oil Change - update -
01-10-2006, 05:52 PM
#41
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oil filter for c6
I wonder what the concensus would be on oil filters. I know walmart normally has a very good price on Mobil1 5W30 but they don't carry AC Delco filters. The temptation would be to buy the oil and the equivalent fram filter in one trip.
What's the take on fram filters ? Are they inferior to AC Delco ones ?
Thanks!
What's the take on fram filters ? Are they inferior to AC Delco ones ?
Thanks!
01-10-2006, 06:19 PM
#42
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Location: Dawson Springs Kentucky
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Originally Posted by Steve Germany
The cooler is for the transmission and does not share oil with the engine.
Don't remember the link but after testing it was one of the best along with the Wix premium. Little history--the Ultragard line was dropped by DELCO a few years ago. Corvette owners were so vocal because it was first choice among most owners they continued the 44 only.
Last edited by Icebear; 01-10-2006 at 06:23 PM.
01-10-2006, 06:32 PM
#43
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One more item for oil change
One thing I did not see mentioned (may have missed it, if so sorry in advance) was to use something to bridge the crossmember when jacking the car from front or rear. If you look at either crossmember you will notice the webbed sections on the ends. GM recommends using a two by four, going from end to end, bridgeing at least two of the webs. I use a piece of 4" chanel 24" long with rubber pads on the ends to reach from side to side with jack in the middle. If you try to jack directly on the centers of the crossmembers you stand the chance of damage to the cast alum. Also after jacking you can put your jackstands on the outboard ends of the channel and support the car without the puck. This is the same procedure and piece used on the C5 for the same reason. Will try to get some pics this weekend if anyone is interested.
Last edited by Icebear; 01-10-2006 at 06:34 PM.
01-10-2006, 07:07 PM
#44
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Icebear
One thing I did not see mentioned (may have missed it, if so sorry in advance) was to use something to bridge the crossmember when jacking the car from front or rear. If you look at either crossmember you will notice the webbed sections on the ends. GM recommends using a two by four, going from end to end, bridgeing at least two of the webs. I use a piece of 4" chanel 24" long with rubber pads on the ends to reach from side to side with jack in the middle. If you try to jack directly on the centers of the crossmembers you stand the chance of damage to the cast alum. Also after jacking you can put your jackstands on the outboard ends of the channel and support the car without the puck. This is the same procedure and piece used on the C5 for the same reason. Will try to get some pics this weekend if anyone is interested.
04-01-2006, 11:48 AM
#45
Burning Brakes
I've used the Racer oil filter from K&N for my Z-51 C6, retails for about $10 - $13. Same filter for all 6.0L LS2 engines. (Will not fit 7.0L Z06)
Basically a high quality Mobil 1 filter with some mods for racers and very high flow without having to use a bypass filter (which can circulate unfiltered oil under high loads/RPMS... bad!)
k&N filter HP-1007
LINKLINK HP-1007
Positive Review HERE
Basically a high quality Mobil 1 filter with some mods for racers and very high flow without having to use a bypass filter (which can circulate unfiltered oil under high loads/RPMS... bad!)
k&N filter HP-1007
LINKLINK HP-1007
Positive Review HERE
04-01-2006, 02:34 PM
#47
2nd Gear
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Oil Pump
I have a Mercedes E320, and MB has always recommened pumping the oil out from the dip stick tube over bottom draining. They got me going on changing all of my vehicles' oil this way. No fuss, no mess and no risks on eventually stripping threads on plug.
Has anyone done it this way on their C6, and if so is the dipstick tube large enough?
I hope to be a base C6 vert owner soon, and have been following this great forum for some time now to educate myself.
I've had a 76, 89 vette, and my last indulgence was a 1990 C4 Pcar.
I can't wait!!!
John
Has anyone done it this way on their C6, and if so is the dipstick tube large enough?
I hope to be a base C6 vert owner soon, and have been following this great forum for some time now to educate myself.
I've had a 76, 89 vette, and my last indulgence was a 1990 C4 Pcar.
I can't wait!!!
John
04-01-2006, 02:56 PM
#48
Team Owner
Originally Posted by cmb13
Alright, I did it. Funny how this is the most expensive car I've bought by a long shot, yet the first time I even considered changing the oil myself. I've always gone to the dealer or those 10 minute places.
One thing I learned, the hard way - you definitely need a filter wrench. No way I could get it off by hand. I had to go to the store in my other car.
It took 5.5 quarts, as billed. Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30, of course. After I finished, it took only 5, but I turned it on and let it run a few minutes. I then rechecked and it needed an extra 0.5 for a total of 5.5.
I've found the recommended filter is the AC Delco PF 46; yet the one I pulled off was numbered PF 44. Apparantly the PF 44 was discontinued. I understand there is a Premium UP 44; not sure what the difference is.
Finally, what's with these magnetic oil pan bolts? Why would I want to change this?
One thing I learned, the hard way - you definitely need a filter wrench. No way I could get it off by hand. I had to go to the store in my other car.
It took 5.5 quarts, as billed. Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30, of course. After I finished, it took only 5, but I turned it on and let it run a few minutes. I then rechecked and it needed an extra 0.5 for a total of 5.5.
I've found the recommended filter is the AC Delco PF 46; yet the one I pulled off was numbered PF 44. Apparantly the PF 44 was discontinued. I understand there is a Premium UP 44; not sure what the difference is.
Finally, what's with these magnetic oil pan bolts? Why would I want to change this?
04-01-2006, 03:00 PM
#49
Team Owner
Originally Posted by cmb13
Alright, I did it. Funny how this is the most expensive car I've bought by a long shot, yet the first time I even considered changing the oil myself. I've always gone to the dealer or those 10 minute places.
One thing I learned, the hard way - you definitely need a filter wrench. No way I could get it off by hand. I had to go to the store in my other car.
It took 5.5 quarts, as billed. Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30, of course. After I finished, it took only 5, but I turned it on and let it run a few minutes. I then rechecked and it needed an extra 0.5 for a total of 5.5.
I've found the recommended filter is the AC Delco PF 46; yet the one I pulled off was numbered PF 44. Apparantly the PF 44 was discontinued. I understand there is a Premium UP 44; not sure what the difference is.
Finally, what's with these magnetic oil pan bolts? Why would I want to change this?
One thing I learned, the hard way - you definitely need a filter wrench. No way I could get it off by hand. I had to go to the store in my other car.
It took 5.5 quarts, as billed. Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30, of course. After I finished, it took only 5, but I turned it on and let it run a few minutes. I then rechecked and it needed an extra 0.5 for a total of 5.5.
I've found the recommended filter is the AC Delco PF 46; yet the one I pulled off was numbered PF 44. Apparantly the PF 44 was discontinued. I understand there is a Premium UP 44; not sure what the difference is.
Finally, what's with these magnetic oil pan bolts? Why would I want to change this?
Anyone know What is the difference between the PF-44 and PF-46?
Also why not just run the car hot drain it so it flows and even better put it up on Rhino ramps?
04-01-2006, 03:43 PM
#50
Team Owner
Originally Posted by JmpnJckFlsh
You can buy the UPF44 fairly cheaply through CF dealers (Fred Beans or Ken Fitchner) if you buy a 6 filter carton...since filters don't really have a shelf life, the only negative is having to store them, but they don't take up much space. It's a premium GM filter and should have the same outside dimensions as the PF44. From CF dealers, it costs a little more than something you get from Pep Boys, but it's worth it to me.
Magnetic drain plugs...Actually not necessary and of dubious worth...but they may catch something. My opinion is the cost is nominal...why not. Also available from CF dealers.
Magnetic drain plugs...Actually not necessary and of dubious worth...but they may catch something. My opinion is the cost is nominal...why not. Also available from CF dealers.
04-01-2006, 04:25 PM
#51
Melting Slicks
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I replaced my oil drain plug with a Fumoto oil drain valve (F107N) and adaptor (ADP107). I chose the model with a nipple (N) so that I can attach a short piece of plastic tubing and drain the oil directly into a 5 gal container with no splashing.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
04-01-2006, 04:39 PM
#52
Team Owner
Originally Posted by bonin5
I wonder what the concensus would be on oil filters. I know walmart normally has a very good price on Mobil1 5W30 but they don't carry AC Delco filters. The temptation would be to buy the oil and the equivalent fram filter in one trip.
What's the take on fram filters ? Are they inferior to AC Delco ones ?
Thanks!
What's the take on fram filters ? Are they inferior to AC Delco ones ?
Thanks!
I have found the AC-Delco UPF-46 blue oil filter at Pep boys. I don't know about Fram oil filters just that they seem to have the market and are everywhere. There was an oilfilter study done back in 2003 and the conclusion on that was the Fram Oil filter was one of the worst and to avoid it. Things may have changed now hopefully I don't know.
This was on a Mopar site-Oil Study.
04-01-2006, 04:43 PM
#53
Team Owner
Originally Posted by tom4416
Mine with the filter change takes exactly 5.5 qts.
PF46 or equivalent.
Some can change it without lifting it at all with socket extensions. I lift just the front with a quick pump jack on each side and my lifting pucks. That way I can lower it down to drain all the oil and then raise it back up to reinstall.
As for other maintenance, I always check fluids, check for leaks from tranny/diff and will change the air cleaners at the recommended interval.
There really isn't any tips or tricks, it's a very easy car to change the oil and filter on.
PF46 or equivalent.
Some can change it without lifting it at all with socket extensions. I lift just the front with a quick pump jack on each side and my lifting pucks. That way I can lower it down to drain all the oil and then raise it back up to reinstall.
As for other maintenance, I always check fluids, check for leaks from tranny/diff and will change the air cleaners at the recommended interval.
There really isn't any tips or tricks, it's a very easy car to change the oil and filter on.
04-01-2006, 04:51 PM
#54
Team Owner
Originally Posted by railgun
I'm going with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter for my first oil change. The model is M1-107 according to the filter book at AutoZone. It was $9.99 so roughly $1.50/filter more than ordering a case of 6 UPF44 filters. Pretty much planning to go by the DIC for oil changes after this somewhat early change (65% oil life left per the DIC).
04-01-2006, 05:10 PM
#55
Team Owner
Originally Posted by easyrider13
I replaced my oil drain plug with a Fumoto oil drain valve (F107N) and adaptor (ADP107). I chose the model with a nipple (N) so that I can attach a short piece of plastic tubing and drain the oil directly into a 5 gal container with no splashing.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
Is it very secure? Easy install or does it get involved?
Like everything else in life there is a downside to this what is it?
04-01-2006, 05:43 PM
#56
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Kwiklift
Something you might want to add to the oil change list is a KWIKLIFT.
Bought one several years ago and now I couldn't live without it.
www.kwiklift.com
Out of Broken Arrow OK and nice people to deal with..
Bought one several years ago and now I couldn't live without it.
www.kwiklift.com
Out of Broken Arrow OK and nice people to deal with..
04-01-2006, 05:47 PM
#57
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There was an oilfilter study done back in 2003 and the conclusion on that was the Fram Oil filter was one of the worst and to avoid it. Things may have changed now hopefully I don't know.
This was on a Mopar site-Oil Study.[/QUOTE]
I've returned or thrown away all the Fram filters in the garage....
Had some very bad experiences with them....
I use WIX or Ford Racing now....
This was on a Mopar site-Oil Study.[/QUOTE]
I've returned or thrown away all the Fram filters in the garage....
Had some very bad experiences with them....
I use WIX or Ford Racing now....
04-01-2006, 05:59 PM
#58
Team Owner
Originally Posted by casaleenie
There was an oilfilter study done back in 2003 and the conclusion on that was the Fram Oil filter was one of the worst and to avoid it. Things may have changed now hopefully I don't know.
This was on a Mopar site-Oil Study.
This was on a Mopar site-Oil Study.
I've returned or thrown away all the Fram filters in the garage....
Had some very bad experiences with them....
I use WIX or Ford Racing now....[/QUOTE]
What kinds of bad experiences did you have and on what car?
I have heard WIX is a good brand but I am not familiar with them.
I have used Fram filters alot both oil and fuel on another car didn't have any problems other than the valve noise at start up with the Fram oil filter.
04-01-2006, 06:05 PM
#59
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by LS WON
Now how easy is it to return it back to factory stock with the factory oil plug?
Is it very secure? Easy install or does it get involved?
Like everything else in life there is a downside to this what is it?
Is it very secure? Easy install or does it get involved?
Like everything else in life there is a downside to this what is it?
Installation is simple- after draining oil, just screw in adaptor and oil drain valve in place of drain plug.
Downside? Just the additional cost.
It's secure for ordinary use, although you can put a 3/8" ID spring hose clamp on top of the lever if you want belt and suspenders.
04-01-2006, 06:11 PM
#60
Team Owner
Originally Posted by easyrider13
It's simple to return to stock. Just remove the valve and adaptor and reinstall the OEM drain plug.
Installation is simple- after draining oil, just screw in adaptor and oil drain valve in place of drain plug.
Downside? Just the additional cost.
It's secure for ordinary use, although you can put a 3/8" ID spring hose clamp on top of the lever if you want belt and suspenders.
Installation is simple- after draining oil, just screw in adaptor and oil drain valve in place of drain plug.
Downside? Just the additional cost.
It's secure for ordinary use, although you can put a 3/8" ID spring hose clamp on top of the lever if you want belt and suspenders.