Originally Posted by MCharlie

Yup! Jack away. Although I don't recommend it, you can actually lift the entire side of the car from one of the lift points.

A little trick I learned a long time ago: Due to bad shoulders, muscling around a Corvette's wheel and tire is a 'trying' (and painful!) experience. What I do, is to take one of the car/wheel dollies I bought and jack the front or rear of the car up high enough to slide the dolly under the tire. Then I lower the wheel onto the dolly so that it is just touching it, relieving the weight on the tire. I then take off the lug nuts and easily slide the tire off the spindle/hub, making sure not to move the tire in the dolly. After I do what I want to do, ie: clean/repaint the calipers, etc., I then move the tire and dolly back to the spindle/hub, raise or lower the car so the wheel studs line up with the rim, slide the wheel onto the studs, install the lug nuts, put a red caution flag on one of them (To remind me to re-torque the lugs once on the ground)

Voila'! No strain on the shoulders, and no fighting to get the lugs lined up with the wheel. If you don't have the dollies already, Harbor Freight has them for $50.00 a pair, and right now, there is a coupon for 20% off all purchases, so your cost would be $40.00 for a pair of the dollies. (And you can get free stuff with the free coupons!)

MC

Originally Posted by stymie222

Thanks- Where would be your choice for positioning a jack stand for protection ? Not sure the area in front or rear of the cargo lift (alongside the jack) would be a good idea.

Originally Posted by MCharlie

I put another jack under the cross member, either front or in the rear. No weight it on it, just there for protection in case the weight holding jack should fail. (Never has, but prevention, eh wot?!!)

BTW..I forgot to add this to my initial post about dollies. These are only rated at a 1000 pounds, but I never put that kind of weight in mine...only the weight of the tire and wheel..which is substantial, but, heh, not a 1000 pounds!

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...-pc-61283.html


MC

Originally Posted by Vet

Here is a method for jacking and supporting a C6 using ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations. All four wheels off the ground. Lots of room under the car to work (oil changes, etc.) Very secure.

All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.

In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.

Two low-profile, long-reach jacks favored by forum members are the AC DK13HLQ and the Omega 29023 - detailed comparison here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1814892

Jack stands used in the photos below are Blackhawk Automotive forklift stands, details below in post #4.

The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.

Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).

Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks

2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member

3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter

Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.

Originally Posted by Steve Cottrell

It's always a good idea to pop the hood, hatch, and doors before jacking the car.

Originally Posted by v1 rot8

I bought a harbor freight cross beam, to big and heavy to mess with me for me. Ended up making a set with a Piece of box steel, some black hard rubber and plywood I already had. The rubber pads meet the car, round circle in the center fits in the harbor freight low profile jack. Bare wood pads are for Jack stands if needed.

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Originally Posted by v1 rot8

I bought a harbor freight cross beam, to big and heavy to mess with me for me. Ended up making a set with a Piece of box steel, some black hard rubber and plywood I already had. The rubber pads meet the car, round circle in the center fits in the harbor freight low profile jack. Bare wood pads are for Jack stands if needed.



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