Dano523

FYI, it anyone was wondering the C180 and C184 connector are the connector next to the battery on wet sump engines. If you remove the battery and look at the inside of the fender wall to the passenger side of the fender, you will see the two connectors.
Note, if you have a dry sump motor, the connectors are between the oil tank and the fender isntead.

The C184 is the connector with the more wires, while the C180 is the one with fewer wires isntead.

I bring this up, since both the rear wheel speed sensors run through the C184 connector too (its listed as the engine to trans connector), and if you are getting a rear wheel hub sensor codes that cleaning the connector at the hub is not solving the problem, pull and clean the C184 connector as well.

allprohq

Dano523....I just "shook" the C184 connector and it cleared. This is the 2nd time that I have done this and I haven't had a problem for the last two months. It's now August 15th 2018.
The C184 connector has so many wires on it and I had trouble with getting it disconnected and I also wasn't sure that I could get the connector back together without breaking it.
I'm sure that I will have to do it again and take that chance in the future, though. I do thank you for your information.....Alan

Dano523

Location of the C184 connector is all the same for all the C6's, it just a matter what is in the way to get to the connector. On the wet sump motors, it will be the battery that is blocking it, and on the dry sump motor since the battery is related to the rear cubby to make way for the oil tank instead, it's the oil tank that is in the way.


#4 is the C184 connector.



So on a wet sump motor since the battery is up front, you have to remove it to get the the C184 connector. Look at the positive battery connector on the battery in the below photo (red cover), and the C184 connector is back in that chubby hole, about the middle of the battery level.



Once you have the battery out of the way, disconnect the connector, clean up both sides with electrical spray contact cleaner, light up both sides (including in the wire side) with WD-40, and take a look at the female side of the connector to make sure that one of female pins has been pushed back into the socket.


As for what causes problems with the connector most of the time, its the battery that vents against the connector, and this cause a slight corrosion problem isntead. So the spray contact cleaner is used to clean the corrosion in the first place, and since WD-40 is a water displacement and protective electrical contact coating, will help from the problem coming back.

And again, you will see two square connectors. The C184 is the one with more wires, but clean both and use WD-40 on the wetter side before you put the two back together. Also, will have a few connectors that will have round parts, and not a back idea to disconnector and clean up them as well since you will have spray electrical cleaner and WD-40 in hand.


Back to WD-40, it was first designed to prevent corrosion on plane ignition parts during the war in the pacific islands. Hence took Norm Larsen 40 cracks at it to get it right and why is was called WD (water displacement) 40 (tries to get it right).

allprohq

Thanks, Dano523;
I will try this. I have a lot of stainless steel covers on my motor; especially a battery cover. I wonder if the cover is causing this problem? I will also clean the connectors behind the battery.
I'll let you know of any change.
I like the WD-40 explanation...good trivia question.

Alan

C6ToGo

But you didn't just make a "comment".....you asked 3 questions to someone who posted 12 years ago. Some don't realize how old a thread is and need reminding if they are looking for an answer from someone who will likely never see it. Try PM next time.

2007 shop manual (not sure if for all years):
C184 is either a 24 or 40 pin connector (depending on options)... Engine harness to transmission harness,
Location: right rear of engine compartment, right side of the battery

allprohq

Sorry for the misunderstanding, Batman75.
I saw how old the discussion was, but, joined in the discussion since I was having the same problem. I commented that I was having the same problem and then asked questions.
I'm still fairly new at posting on the forum. I hadn't thought about doing a private message with the original person that posted the question.
Thanks, again for the feedback.
I will try cleaning the C184 connector and will let everyone know if that fixes the problem.

Alan

allprohq

Well; I called my mechanic and set up a time for him to see me on Monday (today)....I went out to my vette this morning and it started right up without the indicator display and lights and was running just fine.....SURPRISED; I took it out for a drive and it was fine....I guess that my "shaking" the harness was all that was needed....I called my mechanic and cancelled (for now)....it just couldn't have been that easy.....COULD IT?

z06clif

Its suppose to do that to keep the compressor from burning up.

Clif

kings1016

Dano,
Your information and picture is very helpful. I have a 2012 grandsport that I just recently (a month ago) put an A&A supercharger on along with their A&A 3" radiator upgrade but the thermostat is the stock thermostat. The other night leaving a friend's house, the "engine hot-AC turned off" message came on....coolant gauge is not working (zero) and DIC is XXX. I get home fans andare running but engine isn't hot. Two days later, I start up the car...fans immediately come on and the same "engine hot-AC turned off" message came on....coolant gauge is not working (zero) and DIC is XXX.
So from researching and readimg newer and old threads, it could be the sensor, thermostat, loose wiring harness, etc......my question is - since I have a supercharger on my car and upgraded radiator (with stock thermostat) what things should I check and/or consider since I'm not running a stock car or radiator? I really don't want to take my car to the dealership to do an expensive fishing expedition....if I can possibly fix the problem fairly easily. Thanks...

Dano523

Colent temp sensor is on the front of the head on the driver side as seen below.


I would start with just making sure it connected to start with, and that none of the wires to it or the connector is broken. If you want to check the sensor, then take a ohm reading of the two pins on the sensor with a multi meter, and you should come back with a ohm reading across the pins. If no ohms, then the sensor needs to be replaced. If you get a ohm reading on the sensor, and the connector looks good and was plugged in, then start chasing the wires up line from the connector to make sure that you don't have cut wire up line.

As for the radiator fan, if the OEM unit with OEM PWM, then solving the engine temp sensor problem, should resolve the rest of the problem.


Also, turning on the A/C, will turn the raditor fan on even if the engine is not hot. The heat exchanger for the A/C sits in front of the radiator, so when the ac is on, air has to be drain through the A/C heat exchange core by the radiator fan. Hence on the HVAC controller, third button from the left will turn the A/C off and on with the car running, and a good way to check to make sure that fan is working when you first start the car up and the motor is cold; even if you have problems with the temp sensor and the fan not begin tuned on from the motor too hot isntead.

kings1016

Dano,
Thank you so much for the pictures and details on solving the problem. I'll give this a try and see if I can get it squared away. I have not really worked under the hood much.....but I think I can give this a shot.

Thanks again to you and all the guys on here that really know their stuff and don't mind sharing their knowledge. I always learn some good info/tips on these boards....

kestell123

I understand not wanting to reopen old theads, but it did bring Dano in the give a more complete picture. Thank you for all the help you give us Dano.

Vetteman Jack

Closed.