DIY – Rear Axle / Differential oil change, with pics – for FAQ
#201
Drifting
Great write-up.
My car is an 08 with 8500 miles and i have only 7 days left on the warranty so i i made an appointment yesterday and brought it in for the rear end fluid change today. The service tech who works on the Corvettes knew all about the issue, 40 minutes later and it's done. He told me the full effects of the fluid change would happen in about 100 miles of driving after the LS fluid gets fully worked into the clutch plates. So far so good.
Your results may vary.
My car is an 08 with 8500 miles and i have only 7 days left on the warranty so i i made an appointment yesterday and brought it in for the rear end fluid change today. The service tech who works on the Corvettes knew all about the issue, 40 minutes later and it's done. He told me the full effects of the fluid change would happen in about 100 miles of driving after the LS fluid gets fully worked into the clutch plates. So far so good.
Your results may vary.
#204
#205
Drifting
I don't know i anyone has posted this earlier but remove the fill plug first then remove the drain plug to be safe.
Ever drain a trans and then find out you can't remove the fill plug for whatever reason?
Ever drain a trans and then find out you can't remove the fill plug for whatever reason?
#206
Drifting
#207
Melting Slicks
#208
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Did the change today
I have a 2008 Base A6 coupe and had terrible grinding noises from the rear end around corners. I did raise the car to do the job and used the Flotool recommended by VET. Just wanted to mention that I measured what came out and it was just under 2 quarts. I was able to get all of the oil out of each one quart GM Dexron fluid bottle. So it looks like you can buy 2 quarts and fully replace the fluid with the Flotool. It was really easy. After the change I got the trans temp up to 185 degrees and then did 10 figure eights in an empty parking lot. So far so good. Thanks to VET for the original post so many years ago and thanks to those who posted comments.
Last edited by realoldguy; 01-08-2012 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Typo
#209
Safety Car
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I have an 05 C6 with the Z-51 package and an AT. I changed the gear lube the first time in appoximately 4000 miles and used the Mobile 1 LS 75-90 gear lube. It never totally fixed the problem however the noise would only occur when the car was cold making left hand turns. At 23,000 miles it started making noises at left and right hand turns even if the car was driven many miles. I was worried the rear-end was going out. I tried to locate the Dextron LS fluid yesterday and couldnt find it anywhere in the area. I bought the Royal Purple and also input 2 bottles of the GM friction modifier for rear ends. I followed the instructions as indicated on the forum (great write-up by the way) and used my lower unit boat pump for changing lube in outboard motors (13.00 at walmart). To make a long story short this Royal Purple change with 2 bottles of GM anti friction additve worked great. The noise was gone after pulling out of the driveway. I did the eight figure eights and tried it again this morning and the car is better now than ever. No noise at all. I changed the anti freeze for the second time and also changed the engine oil and filter yesterday since the car was all jacked up and I could get underneath it easily. I am not a big Royal Purple guy or anything but it did work great for me. I dont know why most places in the area dont have the Dextron LS lube.
#212
Burning Brakes
Ok so guess what, I have the chatter/rubbing noise when making a turn. Just a little confused with the fluid change fix. I have an 08, do I get the modifier for the rear diff or do i not get it and get the non synthetic lube. New to this whole vette thing so go easy on me
Also is the best lube from gm or should i go elsewhere like amsoil or royal purple.
thanks
steve
Also is the best lube from gm or should i go elsewhere like amsoil or royal purple.
thanks
steve
#213
Ok so guess what, I have the chatter/rubbing noise when making a turn. Just a little confused with the fluid change fix. I have an 08, do I get the modifier for the rear diff or do i not get it and get the non synthetic lube. New to this whole vette thing so go easy on me
Also is the best lube from gm or should i go elsewhere like amsoil or royal purple.
thanks
steve
Also is the best lube from gm or should i go elsewhere like amsoil or royal purple.
thanks
steve
#216
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Ok so guess what, I have the chatter/rubbing noise when making a turn. Just a little confused with the fluid change fix. I have an 08, do I get the modifier for the rear diff or do i not get it and get the non synthetic lube. New to this whole vette thing so go easy on me
Also is the best lube from gm or should i go elsewhere like amsoil or royal purple.
thanks
steve
Also is the best lube from gm or should i go elsewhere like amsoil or royal purple.
thanks
steve
#218
I have a base 05 and the drain plug is the problem. While I can see it, the spring is about 1/4" overhanging the plug. Plus, the spring is very tight against the differential and you can get an L shaped allen in the plug but there is no room to turn the wrench.
Can I loosed the bolts that hold the spring in place to lower the spring so that I can gain sufficient room to turn the allen wrench?
The plugs are really tight and there is no way a regular allen wrench is going to remove it even if I had the clearance.
I saw the one fellow made a special tool, that is fine and dandy if you have a welder and torch to do the fabricating. No such luck here.
Bob
A foot note: You will just have to make a special wrench to get that drain plug out. Shortened a 10mm allen wrench and welded a 9/16" nut to it. Then used an off-set aircraft cylinder base wrench to turn the whole thing. It is pretty tight and takes some torque to remove. Once out, the whole process is a piece of cake. The drain plug is the challenge and without a welder and grinder your chances of being successful are slim.
Can I loosed the bolts that hold the spring in place to lower the spring so that I can gain sufficient room to turn the allen wrench?
The plugs are really tight and there is no way a regular allen wrench is going to remove it even if I had the clearance.
I saw the one fellow made a special tool, that is fine and dandy if you have a welder and torch to do the fabricating. No such luck here.
Bob
A foot note: You will just have to make a special wrench to get that drain plug out. Shortened a 10mm allen wrench and welded a 9/16" nut to it. Then used an off-set aircraft cylinder base wrench to turn the whole thing. It is pretty tight and takes some torque to remove. Once out, the whole process is a piece of cake. The drain plug is the challenge and without a welder and grinder your chances of being successful are slim.
Last edited by Bob3700; 06-15-2012 at 07:54 PM.
#219
Instructor
Replaced fluid today with Dexron LS. Car sat alot before I bought it. It is an early 2007 Z built in 2006 with only 3700 miles. I put 1600 of the miles on in the last 3 weeks (1000 on my ride home) Car had chatter when I turned in parking lots etc... New fluid definately fixed it! Job was pretty easy using the alignment rack at the dealership I work at. Only negative was bashing my hand when I broke the fill plug loose and getting that pesky clip back into place (had my friend who is a mechanic help)
#220
Did you buy a new clip, or reused it? How did you remove it? And did you follow the proper procedure of running the engine in 2nd gear at 10 mph (at idle, basically) for the final fill? Just curious, since level would be low otherwise, once cooling lines fill up. A write-up for the GSs and Z06s would be great . I'll do my GS soon, now that 2012 service manuals just became available .
Last edited by JCtx; 07-11-2012 at 11:14 PM.