Trailering a C6
#1
Trailering a C6
I move around the country alot and want to haul my C6 w/me. I am looking to purchase and enclosed trailer and have never hauled the C6. Does anyone have any advice on where to have the D-ring anchor points installed in the trailer floor, what type of anchoring system to purchase or the minimun size of a trailer to purchase, etc.
Any comments, experience, photos or "what not to do's" would be appreciated.
Thanks
Any comments, experience, photos or "what not to do's" would be appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Norfolk Va
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I have a 24ft enclosed. I picked up the 07 C6 in Ohio and brought it back to VA using it. Used axle straps around a spoke on the front wheels and around the lower control arms in the rear. It's the same setup as on a dyno.
24ft is a common size, gives you some room to keep things in front of the car and a little room behind the car. Where the tie down points are now in the floor works well on my old LT1/MN6 '90 RX7, '99 Formula and the 97 C6. It's not too big to be a hassle getting in or out of parking lots.
I bought new longer Pit Pal ramps for the beaver tail so I could load the vette without having to jack up the nose of the trailer any. So get the longest swing out flap on the door or save the money on the flap and just buy individual ramps like I have done. Much easier to handle.
www.racingjunk.com is a good place to look for new or used trailer. Also find the closest place they make trailers in your area and buy from there, much better deals and wider selection than your local dealers.
I have an '04 Dodge 3500 dually, going down the road I hardly notice the trailer is back there. My trailer is all aluminum which makes it a little lighter than a steel frame unit. I would recommend get the most lighting you can inside, just makes doing anything in the trailer at night much easier. Oh yea, Black trailers turn into OVENS during the summer, my white one gets very warm, black gets HOT. A salesman may try to push you toward a black unit sitting on their lot now, notice the temp difference on a cool day and then think about it on a hot summer day.
24ft is a common size, gives you some room to keep things in front of the car and a little room behind the car. Where the tie down points are now in the floor works well on my old LT1/MN6 '90 RX7, '99 Formula and the 97 C6. It's not too big to be a hassle getting in or out of parking lots.
I bought new longer Pit Pal ramps for the beaver tail so I could load the vette without having to jack up the nose of the trailer any. So get the longest swing out flap on the door or save the money on the flap and just buy individual ramps like I have done. Much easier to handle.
www.racingjunk.com is a good place to look for new or used trailer. Also find the closest place they make trailers in your area and buy from there, much better deals and wider selection than your local dealers.
I have an '04 Dodge 3500 dually, going down the road I hardly notice the trailer is back there. My trailer is all aluminum which makes it a little lighter than a steel frame unit. I would recommend get the most lighting you can inside, just makes doing anything in the trailer at night much easier. Oh yea, Black trailers turn into OVENS during the summer, my white one gets very warm, black gets HOT. A salesman may try to push you toward a black unit sitting on their lot now, notice the temp difference on a cool day and then think about it on a hot summer day.
#3
Safety Car
Use an E-track system in the front and D-rings in the back.
This will give you moveable loctations for the front, help you get the weight located right. Then in the front you use a short webbed tie down.
In the back you then use long ratchet straps back to the D-rings. Cross them to form an X.
Do a search for Keeper - E-track systems and tie downs. Get some T-hooks, at least 2 for the front. Maybe a couple J hoooks for the back.
Use the 4 oval frame slots in the vette frame for the tie down locations. They are in the frame behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires.
Here is a couple links that show t-hooks and Etrack. T-hooks are meant for the oval frame shipping slots that are in all american car frames.
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/fin...fm?itemid=8979
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/fin...fm?itemid=8879
With the back crossed, you may want to use a J-hook in the frame slot because they will be at an angle to the oval frame slot.
Then a long ratchet strap crossed to the back D-rings.
This shows an E-track in the front of a car trailer. With the E-track you can haul different cars and experiment finding the best location for tongue weight. Just use a short strap clipped into the E-Track and T-hook to the car's frame slot.
http://www.hhtrailer.com/05-CRCargoTrailer.asp
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/B...966986/c-10101
This will give you moveable loctations for the front, help you get the weight located right. Then in the front you use a short webbed tie down.
In the back you then use long ratchet straps back to the D-rings. Cross them to form an X.
Do a search for Keeper - E-track systems and tie downs. Get some T-hooks, at least 2 for the front. Maybe a couple J hoooks for the back.
Use the 4 oval frame slots in the vette frame for the tie down locations. They are in the frame behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires.
Here is a couple links that show t-hooks and Etrack. T-hooks are meant for the oval frame shipping slots that are in all american car frames.
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/fin...fm?itemid=8979
http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/fin...fm?itemid=8879
With the back crossed, you may want to use a J-hook in the frame slot because they will be at an angle to the oval frame slot.
Then a long ratchet strap crossed to the back D-rings.
This shows an E-track in the front of a car trailer. With the E-track you can haul different cars and experiment finding the best location for tongue weight. Just use a short strap clipped into the E-Track and T-hook to the car's frame slot.
http://www.hhtrailer.com/05-CRCargoTrailer.asp
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/B...966986/c-10101
#4
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Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson Arizona
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I'm no expert on trailering (and it may be somewhat of a moot point using the oval slots in the frame for tie points) but I've read some debate on whether or not you should ratchet the suspension down tight so there is no float to the vehicle when trailering.
Also, with the F55 suspension whether or not to leave acc on so suspension is active when trailering.
Just food for thought.
Also, with the F55 suspension whether or not to leave acc on so suspension is active when trailering.
Just food for thought.
#5
Safety Car
You want to ratchet it down pretty tight. You don't want those hooks coming out of the frame. If the vehicle is loose enough to bounce around those hooks could pop out of the frame slots.
Key off.
Key off.
#7
Retired & lovin' it!
I've trailered a number of sports racers over the years & found the most reliable tie down system to be webbing over the road wheels, with anchor points fore & aft of each wheel. That way, the suspension is bearing the car weight & you don't have to worry about stress on any suspension point that might otherwise be used for a tie down.
#8
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t-hooks attached into the jacking puck holes in the frame.
T-hooks from any tow truck supply place or http://www.northerntool.com
Use 5000 lbs ratchet down straps in an X pattern
Left front to right tie down D ring
Right front to Left front D ring
Most trailer compains have an auto or race car package that have D rings in the floor already.
Plus the rear part of the deck is what is called a Beaver tail, or down slopping.
Electric brakes on both axles
Axle rating of at least 3500 each with a 7000 min load capacity. trailer 3000 + vette 3500 = 6500 lbs
Put car in neutral after it is secured in trailer.
a 24 footer is the min you need. 24 footer have room for a few extra things plus ease of getting the car in and out.
Something else to look for in a trailer is the axle rating. Most 24s are fine, 22 or 20 foots may not be.
The other question is what is your tow vehcial ??
Here is my 24" Pace Pursuit
T-hooks from any tow truck supply place or http://www.northerntool.com
Use 5000 lbs ratchet down straps in an X pattern
Left front to right tie down D ring
Right front to Left front D ring
Most trailer compains have an auto or race car package that have D rings in the floor already.
Plus the rear part of the deck is what is called a Beaver tail, or down slopping.
Electric brakes on both axles
Axle rating of at least 3500 each with a 7000 min load capacity. trailer 3000 + vette 3500 = 6500 lbs
Put car in neutral after it is secured in trailer.
a 24 footer is the min you need. 24 footer have room for a few extra things plus ease of getting the car in and out.
Something else to look for in a trailer is the axle rating. Most 24s are fine, 22 or 20 foots may not be.
The other question is what is your tow vehcial ??
Here is my 24" Pace Pursuit
Last edited by AU N EGL; 10-17-2006 at 12:09 PM.
#9
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
t-hooks attached into the jacking puck holes in the frame.
T-hooks from any tow truck supply place or http://www.northerntool.com
Use 5000 lbs ratchet down straps in an X pattern
Left front to right tie down D ring
Right front to Left front D ring
Most trailer compains have an auto or race car package that have D rings in the floor already.
Plus the rear part of the deck is what is called a Beaver tail, or down slopping.
Electric brakes on both axles
Axle rating of at least 3500 each with a 7000 min load capacity. trailer 3000 + vette 3500 = 6500 lbs
Put car in neutral after it is secured in trailer.
a 24 footer is the min you need. 24 footer have room for a few extra things plus ease of getting the car in and out.
Something else to look for in a trailer is the axle rating. Most 24s are fine, 22 or 20 foots may not be.
The other question is what is your tow vehcial ??
Here is my 24" Pace Pursuit
T-hooks from any tow truck supply place or http://www.northerntool.com
Use 5000 lbs ratchet down straps in an X pattern
Left front to right tie down D ring
Right front to Left front D ring
Most trailer compains have an auto or race car package that have D rings in the floor already.
Plus the rear part of the deck is what is called a Beaver tail, or down slopping.
Electric brakes on both axles
Axle rating of at least 3500 each with a 7000 min load capacity. trailer 3000 + vette 3500 = 6500 lbs
Put car in neutral after it is secured in trailer.
a 24 footer is the min you need. 24 footer have room for a few extra things plus ease of getting the car in and out.
Something else to look for in a trailer is the axle rating. Most 24s are fine, 22 or 20 foots may not be.
The other question is what is your tow vehcial ??
Here is my 24" Pace Pursuit
#10
Team Owner
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Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Originally Posted by fwer
By tow vertical do you mean the height of the ball on the tow vehicle unloaded? I will be pulling it with a 2007 Escalade.
What is the Escalades towing capacity?? It must be at least 7500 lbs, minium more like 9000 lbs for you to tow ( pull ) a 24 enclosed with a vette and other junk? Otherwise you could have major transmission problems.
#11
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Originally Posted by fwer
By tow vertical do you mean the height of the ball on the tow vehicle unloaded? I will be pulling it with a 2007 Escalade.
I just ordered the hooks look forward to giving them a try next week.