Ucoat it Garage Floor Install with Custom Corvette Logo
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Ucoat it Garage Floor Install with Custom Corvette Logo
Well guys, I posted about getting my new 07 VY coupe a couple weeks ago and posted a couple of pics of the garage floor; people seemed impressed so I thought I would share my thoughts on the process and the results here in a little how-to thread. I'll post a quick before and after pic here and start with the processes in concurrent replies.
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How slippery is it if you get your shoes wet and walk on it? I like it but it looks slippery.
Last edited by backinblackC6; 11-13-2006 at 05:49 PM.
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First, I got my kit from Ucoat-it -- the people there were very helpful and answered all of my questions even when they were dumb ones.
The first step in all of this was to clean out the garage completely, sweep it, rinse it, sweep, rinse it and then do it all over again. Any dust or particles in the garage are going to become a permanent fixture if they are around when you start applying the epoxy.
Next, you acid wash the garage floor with some Muratic (sp?) acid from a local hardware store -- this is the only thing the Ucoat it people can't ship. This was the first time i had used the acid and damn was it strong. Don't put your head over the bucket when you pour it in there! The fumes about knocked me out!
The acid wash was pretty painless, just dumping it on the garage floor and then sweeping it around. This "etches" the concrete and readies it for application of the first layer of epoxy. You have to rinse all of the acid out a few times and then wait for the floor to "nearly" dry before you can apply first coat of Ucoat it.
I acid washed in the morning on Day 1, then waited a couple hours and started to apply coat one. The coats go on just like paint basically, but you only have about a 2 hour window to work with it before it gets hard.
Here are some pictures of the garage after the first coat was put down -- apparently it is normal for there to be a lot of non-colored spots on the floor here, the second coat filled them in nicely for me.
The first step in all of this was to clean out the garage completely, sweep it, rinse it, sweep, rinse it and then do it all over again. Any dust or particles in the garage are going to become a permanent fixture if they are around when you start applying the epoxy.
Next, you acid wash the garage floor with some Muratic (sp?) acid from a local hardware store -- this is the only thing the Ucoat it people can't ship. This was the first time i had used the acid and damn was it strong. Don't put your head over the bucket when you pour it in there! The fumes about knocked me out!
The acid wash was pretty painless, just dumping it on the garage floor and then sweeping it around. This "etches" the concrete and readies it for application of the first layer of epoxy. You have to rinse all of the acid out a few times and then wait for the floor to "nearly" dry before you can apply first coat of Ucoat it.
I acid washed in the morning on Day 1, then waited a couple hours and started to apply coat one. The coats go on just like paint basically, but you only have about a 2 hour window to work with it before it gets hard.
Here are some pictures of the garage after the first coat was put down -- apparently it is normal for there to be a lot of non-colored spots on the floor here, the second coat filled them in nicely for me.
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The dry time between the first and second coats is supposed to be about 4-6 hours, but I waited about 12 since it was pretty cold here in KY and that extends the drying time (but also the work time!).
If you decide to go with some Flek (basically little paint chips that add to the look of the floor, IMO) you add it in here during the second coat installation. You basically repeat the same process as you did for the first coat -- mix the components in the provided bucket and then paint on the floor. I HIGHLY recommend you get a good quality paint roller extender for this as you have to apply some pressure (just as in normal painting) and I broke two broom handles before going out and getting one.
While you are painting the various sections of the floor, you periodically throw some handfuls of the Flek into the air and hopefully they'll spread out evenly. I would then get a broom and sweep up the Flek that didn't make into the wet paint so it gets out of the way. It is probably best to do similar sized squares of floor (like 3' x 3') at a time, throw some Flek, then sweep, then paint another section. Repeat this process until you have the entire floor done and don't forget to NOT paint yourself away from the exit!
I knew I was going to be putting down a Corvette logo and I didnt' want any flek under on top of it so I had to complicate things. I made a cut out of paper that was the same size and outline of the vinyl logo, and taped it onto the first coating of the epoxy before i started painting the second coat. Then ,when I got to it (did the sides and near garage door first) i painted around it, threw some flek, then removed the tape and painted underneath it.
To keep the flek from falling into as i moved on, i used two folding chairs (light ones) seen in the pictures there to hold up a garbage bag and basically block the flek from falling into that area. It worked for the most part.
So, here is what it looks like after the second coat is installed with the flek.
If you decide to go with some Flek (basically little paint chips that add to the look of the floor, IMO) you add it in here during the second coat installation. You basically repeat the same process as you did for the first coat -- mix the components in the provided bucket and then paint on the floor. I HIGHLY recommend you get a good quality paint roller extender for this as you have to apply some pressure (just as in normal painting) and I broke two broom handles before going out and getting one.
While you are painting the various sections of the floor, you periodically throw some handfuls of the Flek into the air and hopefully they'll spread out evenly. I would then get a broom and sweep up the Flek that didn't make into the wet paint so it gets out of the way. It is probably best to do similar sized squares of floor (like 3' x 3') at a time, throw some Flek, then sweep, then paint another section. Repeat this process until you have the entire floor done and don't forget to NOT paint yourself away from the exit!
I knew I was going to be putting down a Corvette logo and I didnt' want any flek under on top of it so I had to complicate things. I made a cut out of paper that was the same size and outline of the vinyl logo, and taped it onto the first coating of the epoxy before i started painting the second coat. Then ,when I got to it (did the sides and near garage door first) i painted around it, threw some flek, then removed the tape and painted underneath it.
To keep the flek from falling into as i moved on, i used two folding chairs (light ones) seen in the pictures there to hold up a garbage bag and basically block the flek from falling into that area. It worked for the most part.
So, here is what it looks like after the second coat is installed with the flek.
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After the second coat dries, that is when you can apply the UGloss to the floor -- it both adds a nice shine and encloses the flek and protects the look of the finished floor.
First though, I had my logo to deal with!
Just had the logo made a local sign shop in heavy duty vinyl. I carefully laid in on the floor, taped it down, removed half of the backing and then smoothed it onto the floor trying to keep out the air bubbles.
It was pretty easy to do, and here is what it looked like after install.
First though, I had my logo to deal with!
Just had the logo made a local sign shop in heavy duty vinyl. I carefully laid in on the floor, taped it down, removed half of the backing and then smoothed it onto the floor trying to keep out the air bubbles.
It was pretty easy to do, and here is what it looked like after install.
#7
Originally Posted by Vigile
After the second coat dries, that is when you can apply the UGloss to the floor -- it both adds a nice shine and encloses the flek and protects the look of the finished floor.
First though, I had my logo to deal with!
Just had the logo made a local sign shop in heavy duty vinyl. I carefully laid in on the floor, taped it down, removed half of the backing and then smoothed it onto the floor trying to keep out the air bubbles.
It was pretty easy to do, and here is what it looked like after install.
First though, I had my logo to deal with!
Just had the logo made a local sign shop in heavy duty vinyl. I carefully laid in on the floor, taped it down, removed half of the backing and then smoothed it onto the floor trying to keep out the air bubbles.
It was pretty easy to do, and here is what it looked like after install.
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looks great, man i painted my garage floor like that but i didnt do the clear coat........now my garage floor is not shiny and looks dirty! i should have done the clear!
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The final step is the clear coat, and also the most trouble some -- at least for me.
First, this stuff has powerful fumes and I was forced to work with the garage doors closed because it was cold outside, I didn't want stuff to blow in on the wet floor, and the other people in the house didn't want me to survive!!
Next, know that paiting clear is HARD. You might think you are covering everything, but find out after it dries that you missed 10 or so football sized spots. I did at least -- a $35 patch kit from Ucoat it though and all was fixed.
This coat made the floor shiny and pretty -- exactly what I was looking for.
A couple other final notes:
- crunch the flakes a little bit in your hand before you throw them as this keeps them from bunching up when you toss them and landing in big "chunks"
- DO NOT LEAVE your clear coat application roller on the step as you wait for it to dry...it will be STUCK THERE.
- Large flourscent lights can help you find spots you missed of clear coat
I'll answer any Qs that you guys have too!
First, this stuff has powerful fumes and I was forced to work with the garage doors closed because it was cold outside, I didn't want stuff to blow in on the wet floor, and the other people in the house didn't want me to survive!!
Next, know that paiting clear is HARD. You might think you are covering everything, but find out after it dries that you missed 10 or so football sized spots. I did at least -- a $35 patch kit from Ucoat it though and all was fixed.
This coat made the floor shiny and pretty -- exactly what I was looking for.
A couple other final notes:
- crunch the flakes a little bit in your hand before you throw them as this keeps them from bunching up when you toss them and landing in big "chunks"
- DO NOT LEAVE your clear coat application roller on the step as you wait for it to dry...it will be STUCK THERE.
- Large flourscent lights can help you find spots you missed of clear coat
I'll answer any Qs that you guys have too!
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Originally Posted by backinblackC6
How slippery is it if you get your shoes wet and walk on it? I like it but it looks slippery.
I just worried about my bare feet getting cut up on it is all.
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Originally Posted by alan64
it sure looks good, but what if you get a viper?
#13
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It appears your color choices were Medium Blue for the base coat and Granite for the flek. Is that correct? Also, what density did you specify for the flek?
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St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by Vigile
It is pretty slipperly actually. I expected the Flek to add some traction but I don't really think it did. The Ucoat it kits come with some granular stuff that should be applied during the first coat of the epoxy going down and it says that it is to add traction. I didn't do that though I probably would having the option again.
I just worried about my bare feet getting cut up on it is all.
I just worried about my bare feet getting cut up on it is all.
#18
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Turned out great. About how much per sq. ft.?
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when I did it 4 years ago, it was roughly $1/sq.ft.
I added the sand but its still fairly slippery when wet.
A couple cautions:
motor oil and brake fluid mixed together will stain it
a Mickey Thompson ET Street laying on its side will stain it
brake cleaner will make the urethane top coat bubble.
powdercoat powder that falls in a small spot of brake fluid will stain it.
That being said, it is still far more durable than any other coating I have used or seen. I think you will be happy with it.
I added the sand but its still fairly slippery when wet.
A couple cautions:
motor oil and brake fluid mixed together will stain it
a Mickey Thompson ET Street laying on its side will stain it
brake cleaner will make the urethane top coat bubble.
powdercoat powder that falls in a small spot of brake fluid will stain it.
That being said, it is still far more durable than any other coating I have used or seen. I think you will be happy with it.