TMyers

Has anyone had one go bad. I had a noise that I thought was just a minor exhuast leak. In fact when I put the car up on the ramps I has soot where the H-pipe connects to the over axle pipe. This noise would always go away with just a little application of throttle and I only heard it at idle.

Well I finally got a chance to take the car into the shop and they call me and say it is in fact a bearing gone bad in the torque tube. Instead of attempting to rebuild the tube they are ordering a new one.

TMyers

ttt

gota07

Sounds like two seperate issues to me. Soot on the H-pipe to over axle joint would indicate a loose clamp at that joint. But even if that clamp is a little loose, it shouldn't be causing any noise unless it's very loose.

I guess that the good news here is that they will have to retorque the clamp when they put the H-pipe back on after replacing the torque tube and fix both problems.

TMyers

Actually the clamp was as tight as it could be. But you are correct it will be all corrected in the end.

goingdownhill

Yep - same here. Kind of a rattle at idle that goes away when rpm's increase. Mine's in the shop now - GM had to air freight in the bearng. Clearly a warranty item. The dealer says this is not normal wear at 20,000 miles.

EuroRod

With the e-brake engaged, run the car in neutral with the clutch engaged. Then run the car, in gear, with the clutch depressed. The first run, the driveshaft will be turning at engine rpm, inside the torque tube. The second, the engine will be turning, without the driveshaft spinnig. If there is a noise or vibration with the clutch engaged in neutral, its either a bent driveshaft or torque tube bearing failure. If the noise or viberation goes away with the driveshaft not spinning, its usually a clutch issue. My Porsche 944 has a TT, and this is how we determine what we've bent or broken.

FLJOHN

I also have a rattle sound on my 2006 at idle. Sounds like a tin can vibrating on a chain link fence. Very annoying. I took the car into the dealer expecting them to simply tighten something up with a wrench. They tell me that they are ordering a Torque Tube Assembly to fix the problem. I'm not sure exactly what a Torque Tube Assembly is other than the dealer parts list says it costs $1295.61. Glad its under warranty.

keyplyr

Yup - my '05 had one go out recently. All was fine until I installed a new stall converter, then I started hearing that rattle at idle. Kept getting louder over a couple months. Didn't know what it was at first.

The t-tube actually has 3 bearings. I didn't know which one was bad, but since I would have to wait more than a week for delivery I just ordered all 3 at a cost of about $100 each.

No more rattle and I now know that they're all new.

Thump Y

I recently installed a yank 3200 stall in my c6 vette. All was fine up until a few weeks ago i noticed it is not locking up at its usual rpms it seems like its in a strain and i was wondering will a bad bearing in the torque tube cause that or did you notice that in your case? I hear the clicking, rattling noise at idle. I know its been a while for this post but any info will help. Thanks

Cherokee Nation

I'm glad this thread was posted because my 08/Auto has had a rattle at idle in 'Park' for awhile and i was thinking it was a loose clamp as mentioned above and it resonates into my engine bay,so I jacked it up and the clamps are tight.....So my question is: Is the torque tube turning when the car is in park? I hear it more on the drivers side when i have the door open.This started not to long after the dealer had to drop all the stuff needed to replace the cracked fuel pump.....If it is a bad bearing or tube will it do more damage driving it or will it break on the road??...Come on give me some good news.

CHEV AGAIN

Transmission is in the rear, attached to the rear axle. So, I don't know about your noise, but I imagine the driveshaft to be turning at until it reaches the trans.

Mark

Cherokee Nation

Yes I know the tranny is in the rear.I'm thinking of some older cars I've had with a driveshaft with U-joints.The noise sounds like marbles in a tin can and it does not go away when i raise the rpm's.I have never heard a bad bearing sound like my does.

Cherokee Nation

keyplyr: Do you know the part numbers and who did you order from?..Thanks....Note: I search about 10 different GM parts dealers online today and they sell the complete assy which includes the housing for around $1000 bucks.The part # is 89059714.I would not think i will need the housing/tube.

Eritosthenes

As someone who has had his torque tube removed and disassembled just this past August, I can tell you that there is one bearing in the front and two matching bearings in the rear. They are all officially out of production and probably not available from your local dealer. However, a thorough search on eBay or Amazon for the GM p/n might locate them. There are also two black rubber composite elastomers ("guibos") front and rear that could also need replacing, and those too are also out of production and may be difficult to find. The entire torque tube assembly, which was frightfully expensive, is also not available from your local dealer.

CWIC

CN, you might want to edit that receipt, it contains a lot of personal information - safety 1st!

Cherokee Nation

oops...Thank You

Thump Y

Cherokee Nation

That attachment i deleted was a quote from the dealer that i got my vette from: 1-Torque Tube-$1,482.00 2-Labor-12 hours at $160.00 per hr.=$1,951.99 3- Total with taxes $3,626.61...........

HOXXOH

I doubt if keyplyr will respond to this 10 year old thread, but you might try this two year old one that was also rescued by the same guy who found this one. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rque-tube.html

Cherokee Nation

Trump Y: The best price that I found for a new TQ for a C6 Auto is..GM Parts Online...AKA- GM Superstore down here in McAllen Tx one of the largest warehouses in the nation.Their price is $823.00.......Google GM parts and you will find them and others.....Good Luck