ShockwaveGT

So if I don't need to lift the entire car at once, and just want to lift each corner one at a time, can I simply use a floor jack with a C6 puck?

I have a Craftsman 3000lb hydraulic floor jack, and I've used it before to lift the entire rear end (with some jack stands for support), but I'm curious about just lifting each corner one by one, just to be able to clean around the wheel well, take each wheel off one at a time, etc...

So if I get a set of pucks, can I just put one on the floor jack and easily lift using each of the 4 locations to get each corner up and hold it there?

Where do you guys get pucks?

I've also seen that crossbeam adapter, that can be used to lift both the front and/or rear. Would that adapter fit my Craftsman Floor Jack?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...=47686&R=47686

I can't tell how it would fit the Craftsman jack....

Thx.

saplumr

I do it all the time, one corner or one side at a time with 2 jacks and never a problem.

ShockwaveGT

Cool...so you use the pucks with a floor jack then?

Where'd you get your pucks?

I've seen them all over eBay, but I don't want to get ones that suck. I want to make sure they are decent.

Jedsvet

I am about ready for the first oil change. Also the skip shift has bugged me three times in 800 miles, and it is time for it to go.

I was planning on lifting the front or the rear by the pucks with two jacks, then putting stands under the chassis lift points. anyone see a problem with this?

CQRT

Easiest way is two hockey pucks glued together with a 2" eyebolt screwed into the middle . . .works like a champ and you can make a set for under ten bucks.

Jedsvet

I made my pucks, ebay hockey pucks with some large eyebolts screwed and glued.

rollin18

the "pucks" that are on ebay the black ones called heavey duty are literaly used hockey pucks!! with a eye-skrew in them (hard rubber)

you could probaby get some dirt cheap from used sport store super cheap
but they work...

saplumr

I've got the anodized aluminum pucks but had them so long I can't remember where I bought them.

psimms

Got my THICK pucks from BMW. Great fit and price was good.

User 020720

I use these: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...6&dept_id=1095

gota07

Check out Elite Engineering at:

http://eliteengineeringusa.com/

0Rage@AutoBuffs

FloydSummerOf68

I've never understood why you guys need to use pucks anyway...I've had 0 issues jacking my car up.
Maybe someone can explain it to me...do they go in a different location that is easier to get to or something? If that's the case that would be pretty convenient...it's hard to get a jack all the way into the jacking spots at the front...even with a real low profile jack.

Anyway...the chasis on these cars is stiff enough that if you lift one side the other will come up

Jack one side up, stands under...bam...front is jacked up

saplumr

First of all I've never seen a jack that would clear the front, but there are 4 oval jacking points in the frame rails that the pucks slip into and allows clearance for a low profile floor jack

FloydSummerOf68

Interesting. New jacking points WOULD be a plus...I wasnt aware it moved the points nearer for easier access with a jack. Thanks for that info.

I just roll up onto a 1/2" piece of board I have and my jack will fit under...it was the lowest I could find back to work on my firebird.

6 speed Sid

I have had no problems with jacking on one corner. If you don't have pucks, a block of wood will do. I use the snap-in BMW type pucks that stay in the puck slots. Also, if jacking from the front, as previously stated, just drive up on some boards then use the floor jack with the crossbeam adapter or use a short piece of board, like a 2 x6 to spread the load on the front cross member.

CodyC6

Bavarian Autosport

www.bavauto.com

Do a lookup under tools for a 2005 3 series (just an example), and you'll see the lifting pucks. They are actually a perfect fit for the C6, and I leave mine on.

jschindler

I don't ever jack but one side (where the pucks go). I run a jack under the subframe across the front or rear. Much safer and less prone to flex. I have a low profile jack, and I do have to drive the front up on a 2x12 (my car is lowered - might not have to if it's not lowered). You also have no risk of accidentally cracking the rocker panel if something slips.

BearCreekC6

I went to the local ice skating rink and bought four pucks for $1 each.....

ProfMoriarty

For those of us who own the popular Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack, a little effort is required to use it with the adapter (beyond ramps to elevate the front of the car enough to use the jack in the first place).

The problem is, in order to use the beam adapter as it's designed you need to remove the jack cup. This entails removing a 14mm steel support pin. Unfortunately, without the steel support pin there is no means of operating the jack and with the support pin in place the beam adapter pin is obstructed.

Choice one: Cut or grind down the adapter pin until 3/8" or less remains so the adapter can rest flat on the jack pad. This may be acceptable, but I wanted to utilize the entire length of the adapter pin rather than rely on a short remnant.

I went with Choice two: Substitute two bolts for the support pin.

Materials:
(2) 14 mm hardened bolts (shown below)
(2) 14 mm hardened nuts
(1) 14 mm nut
14 mm wrench (7/8" is close enough)
eye protection!!!
fine file(s)
grinder
die grinder with cutting wheel
Sharpie or similar marker
pliers
blue thread locker

Note: You can substitute 1.5 " 14 mm hardened bolts, eliminate 99% of the work, and be done in 5 minutes. If I had any sense this is what I should have done, but...the downside to this is that 14 mm bolts of this length do not have a smooth surface near the bolt head. Rather, they are threaded their entire length. It probably has no practical negative effect, but I didn't want sharp, hardened threads repeatedly bearing on aluminum.

OK, here's how to make that Craftsman 2 ton floor jack that you shelled out $199 for (or $169 on sale!) into the versatile tool it was meant to be:

1. First, remove the split ring from one grooved end of the steel support pin that traverses the jack cup, jack pad, and lifting arms and remove the support pin. Next, remove the jack cup assembly.
This will expose a hole in the lifting pad that will accommodate the beam adapter pin.

2. Push a bolt through the lifting arms and lifting pad into the hole where the lifting cup was and make a mark on the bolt threads with the Sharpie.

3. Thread the sacrificial non-hardened nut a few "threads" past the Sharpie line. This will ensure that the bolt does not protrude into the jack hole (Unintentional plug for "The Man Show" production company).

4. Clamp the bolt/nut assembly in a vise and cut off the exposed threads with a carbide or diamond cutting wheel.

5. Remove the nut, clean up the cut end with a fine file.

6. Repeat the process for the second 14 mm hardened bolt.

7. There is a curved area under the lifting pad that will prevent the 14 mm hardened nuts from bottoming out and aligning properly. Grasp the nut firmly in the pliers and grind one flat end slightly. Next grind a curve into one side of the nut at the area where you ground down the flat end and grind a very slight curve into the opposide side. Sounds like a lot. In reality it takes a few minutes. Repeat for the second nut.

8. Apply a liberal amount of blue thread locker to the nuts.

9. Thread both bolts into the nuts under the lifting pad and tighten with the 14mm or 7/8" wrench.

Now the lifting cup or beam adapter can be simply dropped into the lifting pad, depending on your intended use.

(Pics to follow soon. Need to upload them to new photo site.)