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Take Care of Your Clutch--Preventing or Curing Pedal Issues

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Take Care of Your Clutch--Preventing or Curing Pedal Issues

 
Old 04-01-2009, 11:41 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by pTr73 View Post
I picked up a 60cc irrigation syringe at a medical supply place. Cost was about $1.50
Walmart has them...
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:08 PM
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Great post very imformative and descriptive.

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:29 PM
  #83  
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Ok, first off this thread offers the most informative literature I have ever read! Thanks Ranger!

I just performed my fluid swap... The initial fluid in the resevoir was murky and appeared very dark. I sucked it out with the syringe and cleaned the resevoir out. Poured new fluid and pumped the clutch pedal 30 times. Came back out and only seen a few dark swirls of clutch dust. Maybe it wasnt that bad, but I will keep my eye on it the next time I take the car out.
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:47 PM
  #84  
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can i use a dot3 brake fluid.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:21 PM
  #85  
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did my fluid swap today came back murky twice so i did it about 4 times and now it looks great.....this is def the most informative bunch of people i have even come across thanks guys and it makes owning a corvette just that much more fun knowing that you have this wealth of information from so many people available
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:46 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by sngyu View Post
can i use a dot3 brake fluid.
The owners manual says to use Super DOT-4 brake fluid why ask for trouble?
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FastEddie09C6 View Post
did my fluid swap today came back murky twice so i did it about 4 times and now it looks great.....this is def the most informative bunch of people i have even come across thanks guys and it makes owning a corvette just that much more fun knowing that you have this wealth of information from so many people available
I did mine today also, yesterday i had the car out and the pedal got stuck to the floor. I cleaned mine took it for a short ride and it got darker again. I hope I didnt blow a seal that its getting dark fast like that.

I am from SI too! We probably passed each other on hylan!

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new vette! You picked the right color too!

First mod should be to take the stock mufflers off and replace them with some stingers...
B & B and Corsa are fine also but the stingers give it a subtle growl.

Last edited by pTr73; 04-01-2009 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 12:07 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by pTr73 View Post
I did mine today also, yesterday i had the car out and the pedal got stuck to the floor. I cleaned mine took it for a short ride and it got darker again. I hope I didnt blow a seal that its getting dark fast like that.

I am from SI too! We probably passed each other on hylan!

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new vette! You picked the right color too!

First mod should be to take the stock mufflers off and replace them with some stingers...
B & B and Corsa are fine also but the stingers give it a subtle growl.
I think the first time you do it that it will take 5-6 times to get it clean. I changed it out 3 times, drove it a few days and it is black again. I am going to change it out 6 times this weekend.
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TheTrot View Post
I think the first time you do it that it will take 5-6 times to get it clean. I changed it out 3 times, drove it a few days and it is black again. I am going to change it out 6 times this weekend.
That is comforting to know, I better buy another can of DOT 4.
Pumping my clutch pedal (car parked) isnt cycling it well. I just figured driving the car (creating dust) and a blown hydraulic seal that was the reason it got dirty really fast.
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:49 PM
  #90  
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When doing the pedal pumps after swapping the fluid, be sure to allow the pedal to cycle into the full-up position on every stroke. If you miss the top by even a scant 1/8 inch, the valve to the actuator (slave) remains closed, preventing the mixing of new and old fluid. Full top-to-bottom-to-top cycles of the clutch pedal is what you want.

That said, driving the car works too; just add to the protocol duration.

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Old 04-02-2009, 05:20 PM
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Thanks for the info

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Old 04-02-2009, 05:40 PM
  #92  
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well its good to know another staten islander is on here....btw i was driving today and i checked the fluid afterwards and it still looks good no black grime so i think so far so good.....
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Old 04-02-2009, 06:32 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
When doing the pedal pumps after swapping the fluid, be sure to allow the pedal to cycle into the full-up position on every stroke. If you miss the top by even a scant 1/8 inch, the valve to the actuator (slave) remains closed, preventing the mixing of new and old fluid. Full top-to-bottom-to-top cycles of the clutch pedal is what you want.

That said, driving the car works too; just add to the protocol duration.

Ranger

I think this is what I was doing wrong... I sort of kept my foot on the clutch (and it probably did miss by an 1/8"

I will do this again tomorrow bright and early, thanks for the heads up!
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Old 04-02-2009, 06:35 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by FastEddie09C6 View Post
well its good to know another staten islander is on here....btw i was driving today and i checked the fluid afterwards and it still looks good no black grime so i think so far so good.....
Good news, mine has black in it still. I may have to repeat this about 5 - 6 more times.


Ranger 1 quick question?

Is there a way to determine if I blew a hydraulic seal???
I keep thinking I did just that when my pedal stuck in the down position the other day during a hard launch.
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:16 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by pTr73 View Post
Good news, mine has black in it still. I may have to repeat this about 5 - 6 more times.


Ranger 1 quick question?

Is there a way to determine if I blew a hydraulic seal???
I keep thinking I did just that when my pedal stuck in the down position the other day during a hard launch.
It's not unusual for the clean-up process to take 20 swaps or so.

Regarding the hydraulic seals, once the fluid is clean and remains so, then you'll know whether or not a seal is compromised if pedal issue become chronic.

But pedal hangs on a hard launch can also reflect too slow a release of the clutch pedal. High-rpm pedal hangs with real clean fluid indicate a hardware issue.

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Old 04-02-2009, 07:49 PM
  #96  
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Thank you for sharing all this great information.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:45 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by sngyu View Post
can i use a dot3 brake fluid.
Prestone DOT 4 is $3 at WalMart.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:20 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
It's not unusual for the clean-up process to take 20 swaps or so.

Regarding the hydraulic seals, once the fluid is clean and remains so, then you'll know whether or not a seal is compromised if pedal issue become chronic.

But pedal hangs on a hard launch can also reflect too slow a release of the clutch pedal. High-rpm pedal hangs with real clean fluid indicate a hardware issue.

Ranger
I did have the RPM's up to abour 3500 or so, then pulled the pedal to the half way mark (as the clutch bites). This time it only came up about 2 inches and hung there while I had my foot on the gas. The engine was revving higher as I pushed on the gas but the car wasnt moving. It was then I looked down and seen the pedal still down near the floor. I tried stepping on it and it wouldnt move until I took my foot off the gas. Then I noticed this strong smell of something burning... (smelled like brakes do when they get overheated). I suspect it was the clutch that took the brunt of this ordeal. It smelled like that for a while and then went away. I pulled over and popped the hood, I knew it had something to do with the hydraulic fluid. It was black and directly on the MIN line. At that time I drove the car easily back home, I kept thinking the clutch wasnt grabbing like it used to (probably in my head). But if I heated the clutch up that badly I assume it wont work as efficiently as it should. (when brakes get too hot they lose efficiency also).
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:37 AM
  #99  
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I was just thinking... Do you think GM should fabricate and/or retrofit some type of filter for that resevoir to prevent the fluid from getting contaminated too quickly?


A filter would capture the dust and not bleed it back into the line. And it would be alot easier to swap the filters out when needed.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:41 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by pTr73 View Post
I did have the RPM's up to abour 3500 or so, then pulled the pedal to the half way mark (as the clutch bites). This time it only came up about 2 inches and hung there while I had my foot on the gas. The engine was revving higher as I pushed on the gas but the car wasnt moving. It was then I looked down and seen the pedal still down near the floor. I tried stepping on it and it wouldnt move until I took my foot off the gas. Then I noticed this strong smell of something burning... (smelled like brakes do when they get overheated). I suspect it was the clutch that took the brunt of this ordeal. It smelled like that for a while and then went away. I pulled over and popped the hood, I knew it had something to do with the hydraulic fluid. It was black and directly on the MIN line. At that time I drove the car easily back home, I kept thinking the clutch wasnt grabbing like it used to (probably in my head). But if I heated the clutch up that badly I assume it wont work as efficiently as it should. (when brakes get too hot they lose efficiency also).
You glazed the clutch by allowing significant slip on the launch. The C6 clutch does not tolerate that well. That said, once the clutch cools down again, it's fine. Clean up the clutch fluid and all is back to normal operation.

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