need-for-speed

I don't think that would work. The fluid flow in and out of the reservoir is in / out through the same path. It's not a circular path in series with a pump like your oil or a tranny fluid system.

But, admittedly, I don't know that much about the hydraulics of the system. I could be wrong.......

pTr73

I see what you mean that its an in/out system, but i supposed a filter inserted on the line itself might help. the fluid would pass through the filter on its way in and out. Hence capturing most of the dust particles. Its just a thought, to help alleviate this problem. When I bought my can of DOT 4 the other day the guy at the service desk asked what it was for, and I told him for my clutch fluid. Also told him that it was very black and murky. Then told him about the clutch dust infiltrating the fluid which can be bad etc. He then told me that he never heard of such a thing. At that point I ended the conversation, goes to show you that most people at the dealership arent in tune to the things that happens to our cars when in the field. Thats why 99% of the time I have a problem (and this is advice to anyone who owns any car) is goto a forum and poke around there (if applicalbe) before going to the dealer.

Rocketmanwpb

I was changing my fluid the other day and knocked the reservoir cover under the washer reservoir. Had to remove the rear of the inner wheel well cover to get it back. Made a ten minuet job into a half hour job.

George Ware

Changed my C6 & C4 today.
I had to re-fill the 08-C6 about 3 times to get it clear.
The 88-C4 was a new story I had to clean the bottom out.
I'm sad to say it had black-mud at the bottom, after 6 re-fills it's good now!

Thanks again for the info!

George Ware

GotVett?

To prevent air from possibly getting into the line (when removing the old flluid, as well as when pumping it down), will not going all the way to the bottom (where the hole is) of the reservoir help considerably??? Logical, but want to ask.

need-for-speed

Phil - I saw those posts about getting air in and considered the very same thing you mentioned in your PM - leaving a little fluid in the bottom. But I know from doing brake work, that USUALLY, as long as you don't touch the pedal while the system is open - you won't draw any air in. I also noticed in Rangers video that they emptied it completely and wiped it with a blue shop paper towel, so they didn't mind uncovering it.

And lastly - even if one tiny air bubble formed (i.e. at the top of the drain nipple - after you re-fill the reservoir - up)the first thing you are going to is depress the clutch which would push that bubble into the fluid in the cylinder - no problem.

Mine drives fine after the swap.

Did you see my update? Mine is dirty again after only a 70 mi drive. I'm going to do it again today. Ranger did say it would take a few cylces.

p.s.there is no "pumping it down". Do not touch the clutch pedal when the reservoir is empty. Only pump the pedal after the reservoir has been refilled.

jschindler

Mike, I did mine this morning. I noticed it got pretty clear after about three cycles of changing out fluid. But I kept going, except that the next few times I pumped the clutch much slower - more like the speed you would pump it when you are shifting gears in a casual drive. I got a lot more dirty crud coming up that way.

I wound up using a little over one bottle. I've driven it a little since then, but have not checked it. I have no doubt that in the next couple of days I'll need to do another series of cleaning.

All this has me thinking - do all cars with hydraulic clutches do this, or is there something about the design of the Corvettes that is unique?

Ranger

The clutch fluid reservoir is at the highest point in the hydraulics chain. So following the protocol will not introduce air into the system even if the reservoir is emptied via the syringe...and then swabbed out to remove sediment.

When you then add fresh fluid, it displaces air from the reservoir.

Although it seems obvious, I'll state:

(1) Refill the reservoir (as shown in the video) and reinstall the cap before pumping the clutch pedal. Otherwise, clutch fluid from within the master cylinder line can be aspirated outward and replaced by air drawn in from the empty reservoir.

(2) Refrain from placing the syringe directly into the central opening at the bottom of the reservoir.

BTW. I've used this protocol for eight years without ever introducing air into the hydraulics. In fact, I prescribe the protocol and included pedal pumps to rid the system of trapped air that almost inevitably results anytime the master cylinder is replaced as part of a clutch swap.

Ranger

GotVett?

Thanks to both of you.

rjf965

Did mine today with prestone and the syringe. Worked great!

I was amazed how black the old fluid was on my 08 with 4400 miles!

I kept going until one bottle was gone, about 6-7 changes.

Thanks to Ranger for this info and work!

GotVett?

Just finished mine with about 7250 miles on it. With Rangers excellent write-up, along with need-for-speeds back up, it wasn't hard at all. Mine got pretty clear after 3, but I gave it a few more just to be sure. It surprised me that the "dirty fluid" wasn't as grungy as I might have thought, but more like the color of good ole "Southern sweet tea". Gave the rubber stopper a good cleaning too. Now I'll watch it every week and change as needed but hopefully I won't have to.

C6DuffMan

Jesus, I couldn't believe how bad mine looked at only 4800 miles. Did it a few days ago with 4 cycles. And did it again today with 3 cycles as it had gotten black again. This time it's staying clear.

Thanks for the heads up on this. All hail the interweb.

GotVett?

From what others are saying, even though it's clear now, I'll probably be doing it again in a few days. I ended up still only using about 2/3's bottle with the 6 cycles.

need-for-speed

mine was clean after the first "procedure" where I refilled it 6 times.

After going for a 70 mile spirited drive - it was dirty again. And my 2008 only has 5200 miles. No doubt - more of the old fluid was circulated up to the reservoir.

I just finished replacing it again - did 2 R&R's. Will likely do the same aftter the next drive.

GotVett?

I'll be checking mine daily now but I'm at least comfortable with the DIY.

USA TOY 2

Thank You

ro2516

I went through a whole container of DOT4 and so far I'm down to weak "Southern Sweet Tea" color - to borrow GotVett's reference. I'll resume the process in the next few days.

Question: What do you do with the old fluid? (People who use the term "tree hugger" need not reply.) I bought the fluid & syringe at WalMart. Will they accept the old fluid as well? Or is there somewhere else I can take it? Thanks!

lander

I dump it in with my used oil container.

meshoooo

Thnx for sharing Ranger ..

ro2516

Thanks for the reply! I did some more research and found, according to a MSN "Green" site, brake fluid is alcohol-based and as such, will evaporate. They suggest pouring it into cat litter and setting it outside away from any ignition sources. It will evaporate away. EZ-PZ!!!

http://lifestyle.msn.com/your-life/l...mentid=8416309