Take Care of Your Clutch--Preventing or Curing Pedal Issues
#61
Race Director
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New Information. I've edited the following into Post #1 on the thread....
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Update February 17, 2009
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Today I spent time at the workbench with two Chevy master technicians (one who’s worked on Corvettes since the C3 was first released). We examined the operation of the Corvette clutch actuator and concluded following:
1. The bell housing is fouled with blown clutch dust during aggressive driving.
2. Clutch dust is penetrating the accordion shield on the actuator main shaft. That is obvious from visual inspection.
3. The piston slides along the shaft sealed by an O-ring. The shaft has a film of lubricant or clutch fluid on it. During aggressive driving, this film gets coated on each stroke with a fine layer of blow clutch dust. That is obvious from visual inspection.
4. The O-ring slides along the shaft and squeegees some of the clutch dust down the shaft where it contacts the clutch fluid and is infused.
5. The conclusions were unanimous and seemed obvious from a physical exam of the surfaces involved.
Plus, keep in mind that it is confirmed that clutch dust is getting into the fluid. The question is how. We believe the answer to that is in points 1-5 above.
Ranger
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Update February 17, 2009
------------------------------
Today I spent time at the workbench with two Chevy master technicians (one who’s worked on Corvettes since the C3 was first released). We examined the operation of the Corvette clutch actuator and concluded following:
1. The bell housing is fouled with blown clutch dust during aggressive driving.
2. Clutch dust is penetrating the accordion shield on the actuator main shaft. That is obvious from visual inspection.
3. The piston slides along the shaft sealed by an O-ring. The shaft has a film of lubricant or clutch fluid on it. During aggressive driving, this film gets coated on each stroke with a fine layer of blow clutch dust. That is obvious from visual inspection.
4. The O-ring slides along the shaft and squeegees some of the clutch dust down the shaft where it contacts the clutch fluid and is infused.
5. The conclusions were unanimous and seemed obvious from a physical exam of the surfaces involved.
Plus, keep in mind that it is confirmed that clutch dust is getting into the fluid. The question is how. We believe the answer to that is in points 1-5 above.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 02-18-2009 at 07:53 AM.
#62
Racer
Ranger, just wanted to say thanks for the heads up. I would have never known. Just finished mine this afternoon and it was just as easy as you made it look. Got all the materials at wal-mart and everything worked great. Thanks again .
#64
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St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Now that we know for sure it's clutch dust, we can prevent the failures associated with having that abrasive in the system by replacing it as needed.
You detailed that the engine compartment reservoir replacement strategy is effective, and that the design (small volume capacity and substantial displacement during usage) is such that it can be cleaned out in a short time, using inexpensive and commonly available Prestone DOT 4 brake fluid, and without special tools (bleeders) or the need to get under the car.
My car is just 8 months old, and I expect to be keeping it for many years. I'm glad this potential trouble area is now covered by my DIY maintenance program.
#66
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Hi BAMF AE,
Prestone DOT4 is in my video because I have used it and verified it works well in a Corvette clutch hydraulics. There are other good fluids out there. But I only recommend those I have personally checked out.
Ranger
Prestone DOT4 is in my video because I have used it and verified it works well in a Corvette clutch hydraulics. There are other good fluids out there. But I only recommend those I have personally checked out.
Ranger
#67
Where can you get the remote bleeder from? Also using the remote bleeder do you open it up and then the cap on the reservoir and let it gravity bleed?
I asked the question in the same thread in the tech section about is there a way to hose the inside of the bell housing down with some brake dust remover for wheels to reduce the amount of dust?
I assume the powder residue on the back of the car after driving it is the clutch dust huh?
Where did you say you got the extractor?
I asked the question in the same thread in the tech section about is there a way to hose the inside of the bell housing down with some brake dust remover for wheels to reduce the amount of dust?
I assume the powder residue on the back of the car after driving it is the clutch dust huh?
Where did you say you got the extractor?
#69
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Last but not least......YOU'RE AWESOME!!!! A major asset to the corvette community! I cant thank you enough! I worked on it last night, and it took approximately 4 cycles to get it from black to clear. I will continue to check on it regularly.
If it gets murky in the next couple of days, then that means I didn't cycle it enough, and will just have to repeat the process until it stays clear for at least a week.
I'll keep you posted!
If it gets murky in the next couple of days, then that means I didn't cycle it enough, and will just have to repeat the process until it stays clear for at least a week.
I'll keep you posted!
#70
Race Director
Ranger, Thanks a lot for the info. I just did my vette no problems. It is as easy as you say. I looked at my owners manual and it does not even list checking the clutch fluid on a regular basis. In fact it states that it is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. You may have just prevented me from having a problem with my clutch. Once again thanks a much.
#72
Pro
Ranger,
Great info! I checked mine after reading & watching your post last night and when I got home from work I checked the fluid. Sure enough, with less then 2200 miles on the clock, the fluid needs replacing.
Priceless information!
Thanks for that.
Great info! I checked mine after reading & watching your post last night and when I got home from work I checked the fluid. Sure enough, with less then 2200 miles on the clock, the fluid needs replacing.
Priceless information!
Thanks for that.
#76
Race Director
Just checked on the price for GM's brake/clutch fluid . . . $18.00??? Prestone it is for me.
#80
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I picked up a 60cc irrigation syringe at a medical supply place. Cost was about $1.50