C6 Oil Change DIY
#42
Team Owner
Thread Starter
None at all. The drain is at the bottom, back of the pan. I remember C5 owners going through great gyrations to make the car level to slightly higher in the rear to make sure all the oil drained out. I never had a problem. Once the drain and fill was complete it took 5.5 quarts to fill it back up.
#43
Is there a crush washer to replace? That bit me on the wife's van--there was a slight drip when I tried to reuse the old washer. I want to make sure before I have the drain plug out and no oil in the engine.
#44
Team Owner
What a spectacular looking subject auto . . .nicely done Brother Paul ! Many thanks- this will be helpful to many for years to come.
Perhaps you could prevail upon those with extraordinary access to put it in the FAQ sticky - memorialized forever?
Perhaps you could prevail upon those with extraordinary access to put it in the FAQ sticky - memorialized forever?
#45
Team Owner
Thread Starter
No there is not a crush washer present, simply a conventional washer that I've just reused.
#46
Team Owner
Thread Starter
It's just that precision red clouding your judgment. Thanks for the kind words brother Rollie. Actually, Rich has all ready been kind enough to place it for all posterity as a link in the FAQ file under fluids and maintenance.
#47
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2006
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Becky
#48
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#49
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Paul
#50
Drifting
Paul -- Excellent write up and the pics are crystal clear which are invaluable (or as someone wise once said...a picture is worth a thousand words).
#51
Melting Slicks
I just checked the pdf and I had written 22lb ft of torque. I wanted to verify it so I checked my service manual. My 2005 service manual calls for the following:
Oil Pan Drain Plug
25 N·m
18 lb ft
Oil Filter
30 N·m
22 lb ft
Regarding the turn and a half, It was probably overstated. What is specified is only the torque. I have always used a torque but to estimate the feel, the extra turn felt right when checked a second time. It could be the filter I used. I've gone back and adjusted the pdf to reflect a 3/4 turn from snug just to be safe. I referenced a couple of other sources and 1/2 to 3/4 seems about right as the consensus.
Oil Pan Drain Plug
25 N·m
18 lb ft
Oil Filter
30 N·m
22 lb ft
Regarding the turn and a half, It was probably overstated. What is specified is only the torque. I have always used a torque but to estimate the feel, the extra turn felt right when checked a second time. It could be the filter I used. I've gone back and adjusted the pdf to reflect a 3/4 turn from snug just to be safe. I referenced a couple of other sources and 1/2 to 3/4 seems about right as the consensus.
Thanks Paul! I too looked up the spec last night and sure enough 22 ft lbs is the spec. Next oil change I'll use a K&N filter and use a torque wrench to see how turn is needed to achieve the 22 ft lbs
#52
Paul,
Nice write up. Your technique of flipping the ramp worked like a champ! I have a couple of suggestions:
1. Before removing the old filter, use a hammer and nail to tap a hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil drain out. It's a lot less messy when removing the filter.
2. Pre-fill the new filter with oil before installing it.
I was changing my oil today and in preparation, I bought a box of 5W-30 Mobil 1 at Sam's Club. As I was draining the first bottle into the engine I noticed the bottle label said 10W-20. All six bottles were 5W-20 in a box labelled 5W-30! Sam's swapped out the rest of the box for a new box of 5W-30, which I checked before leaving the store.
Nice write up. Your technique of flipping the ramp worked like a champ! I have a couple of suggestions:
1. Before removing the old filter, use a hammer and nail to tap a hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil drain out. It's a lot less messy when removing the filter.
2. Pre-fill the new filter with oil before installing it.
I was changing my oil today and in preparation, I bought a box of 5W-30 Mobil 1 at Sam's Club. As I was draining the first bottle into the engine I noticed the bottle label said 10W-20. All six bottles were 5W-20 in a box labelled 5W-30! Sam's swapped out the rest of the box for a new box of 5W-30, which I checked before leaving the store.
#55
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Champaign IL
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One suggestion, one nit-pick. The nit-pick is that you need to bold step 15 label. The suggestion is that you warm the car up to about 100 degrees before the oil change to allow the oil, and contaminants, to flow out easier.
---Matthew Hicks
---Matthew Hicks
#56
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Hope, Arkansas - '07 LMB Coupe
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
I just checked the pdf and I had written 22lb ft of torque. I wanted to verify it so I checked my service manual. My 2005 service manual calls for the following:
Oil Pan Drain Plug
25 N·m
18 lb ft
Oil Filter
30 N·m
22 lb ft
Regarding the turn and a half, It was probably overstated. What is specified is only the torque. I have always used a torque but to estimate the feel, the extra turn felt right when checked a second time. It could be the filter I used. I've gone back and adjusted the pdf to reflect a 3/4 turn from snug just to be safe. I referenced a couple of other sources and 1/2 to 3/4 seems about right as the consensus.
Oil Pan Drain Plug
25 N·m
18 lb ft
Oil Filter
30 N·m
22 lb ft
Regarding the turn and a half, It was probably overstated. What is specified is only the torque. I have always used a torque but to estimate the feel, the extra turn felt right when checked a second time. It could be the filter I used. I've gone back and adjusted the pdf to reflect a 3/4 turn from snug just to be safe. I referenced a couple of other sources and 1/2 to 3/4 seems about right as the consensus.
Nice work on the PDF.
#57
Le Mans Master
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I have to disagree with this some of this oil change procedure.
You should jack the vette up so that it is almost level. The oil plug is mid way on the side of the pan, the rear should be slightly higher than the front for complete drainage.
I have been following Hib Halversons method since 1999. I believe it is also documented in the manual to have the car level.
link
The above link is for the C5 but should still apply.
I drive up on ramps, then jack the rear up according to the procedures listed. I then insert another set of ramps under the rear wheels to keep things safe and level.
I'm not taking anything away from Paul here... Just pointing out that the vette has a mid side plug and a baffled pan and needs a slightly different procedure.
You should jack the vette up so that it is almost level. The oil plug is mid way on the side of the pan, the rear should be slightly higher than the front for complete drainage.
I have been following Hib Halversons method since 1999. I believe it is also documented in the manual to have the car level.
link
The above link is for the C5 but should still apply.
I drive up on ramps, then jack the rear up according to the procedures listed. I then insert another set of ramps under the rear wheels to keep things safe and level.
I'm not taking anything away from Paul here... Just pointing out that the vette has a mid side plug and a baffled pan and needs a slightly different procedure.
#59
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I have to disagree with this some of this oil change procedure.
You should jack the vette up so that it is almost level. The oil plug is mid way on the side of the pan, the rear should be slightly higher than the front for complete drainage.
I have been following Hib Halversons method since 1999. I believe it is also documented in the manual to have the car level.
link
The above link is for the C5 but should still apply.
I drive up on ramps, then jack the rear up according to the procedures listed. I then insert another set of ramps under the rear wheels to keep things safe and level.
I'm not taking anything away from Paul here... Just pointing out that the vette has a mid side plug and a baffled pan and needs a slightly different procedure.
You should jack the vette up so that it is almost level. The oil plug is mid way on the side of the pan, the rear should be slightly higher than the front for complete drainage.
I have been following Hib Halversons method since 1999. I believe it is also documented in the manual to have the car level.
link
The above link is for the C5 but should still apply.
I drive up on ramps, then jack the rear up according to the procedures listed. I then insert another set of ramps under the rear wheels to keep things safe and level.
I'm not taking anything away from Paul here... Just pointing out that the vette has a mid side plug and a baffled pan and needs a slightly different procedure.
I offered this DIY as an alternative and an instructional piece for those not familiar with the C6 and the oil change along with those that have limited tools and equipment at their disposal. It is far from gospel, it is far from the only way to perform an oil change on the Corvette and anyone could and should modify it to suit their abilities and resources.