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C6 Oil Change DIY

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Old 07-15-2009, 12:31 AM
  #61  
7thgeneration
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I don't have to turn my ramps around because they already are ! [IMG][/IMG]
Old 07-15-2009, 06:58 AM
  #62  
RyanC7
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Anyone in NoVa that wants to use my lift can come by anytime to change their oil.... just PM me.

Old 07-15-2009, 08:50 AM
  #63  
BSE1956
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Excellent post. There's always something new to learn on this forum. Thanks!
Two minor additions:
1) Change the oil when warm, not hot. I've found (in 30 years of oil changing) that oil filters tend to spin more easily when warm. Warm oil will also tend to have more suspended contaminants in it and getting rid of those is good.
2) Keep a small bag of plain clay kitty litter handy. It is by far the cheapest and best solution for cleaning up any oil spills that might occur past the confines of the cardboard.
Fast clean up.....pour some litter on the oil spill and do a shuffle dance on it. Depending on your coordination, you might look cool or really foolish, but it really works!
Old 07-15-2009, 10:07 AM
  #64  
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Good post. I started out by just looking at the photos without reading it. Got curious why you turned the ramps around. After reading it everything made sense. I use Race Ramps and the slop pulls out of the base so there is no need to put it on the stands or turn the ramp backwards. It usually takes me about 20 minutes to do a thorough job but I can see how it may take a novice longer. There's no reason why everyone can't save some money and do their own service.
Old 07-15-2009, 01:07 PM
  #65  
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didn't read the whole thread, but why do you jack it up? I have changed mine 3 times now, both times in my driveway, no jacking up.

if you turn the front tire, you can easily get the drain plug (i do need an extension on my ratchet) and can easily get the filter off.
Old 08-04-2009, 06:51 PM
  #66  
SubSolar
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I just did my 09 LS3 Vette and it took a 15mm not 13mm to remove the drain plug.
Old 01-24-2010, 11:46 AM
  #67  
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You don't need any jacks, ramps, or pucks to do this. Turn the wheel all the way right, lay on the driver side reach in an there you are easy access. 13 mm wrench and a (hammer to tap free the plug if you have too.) The filter is right there too, just use a filter wrench to loosen it. Very simple and much safer to perform.
Old 02-21-2011, 08:46 PM
  #68  
Doppler1992
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I'm chiming in a bit late, but wanted to compliment Paul for taking the time to post a concise PDF downloadable presentation to help first-timers perform a proper oil change. I remember the first time I changed the oil on my brand new 2005 Z51, and I was a bit paranoid about jack positioning and how level the car should be, etc.

Perhaps there should be clarification on the amount of oil required for a 2005 Z51 because my owner's manual and my factory service manual says 5.5 quarts (with filter) rather than 6.0 quarts. Perhaps subsequent model years hold the extra half-quart.

I like to jack up the left front with wheels turned to the right stop, which facilitates an old fat guy reaching the drain plug and filter with ease. It goes without saying that those of us who prefer to do the task without ramps, ALWAYS have jack stands under an appropriate support point while under the car. One guy mentioned long arms being useful (doing an oil change without raising the car), but I’ve never been able to get the required leverage without sliding my head in just far enough to squash my brains if the jack failed. On my C4 I could reach in with good leverage on the wrench, but not on the C6 without raising the vehicle a tad. Dan is probably not "old and fat" like me.

After removing the filter and drain plug I lower the vehicle back down to level and let it drain for 20 minutes or so. Swingwing's suggestion of tapping a nail hole in the bottom of the filter is an excellent idea because that would undoubtedly eliminate the small mess I typically create no matter how careful I am.

I was surprised that I saw no mention of the GearWrench magnetic oil drain socket that eliminates fishing for drain plugs in a pan of hot oil.

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/sp..._plug_sockets/
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:19 PM
  #69  
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Thanks for the post Paul. I always do my own oil/filter changes and remind myself they're never "run of the mill". The engine's at stake if I forget to refill the oil etc etc. Obviously not likely to happen, but the cost of screwing up is expensive enough that I always give it the attention it deserves...
Old 02-26-2017, 10:01 PM
  #70  
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Default Crankcase Capacity C6 Z51

Paul –

Again, I wish to thank you for taking the time to post a DIY pictorial. Though I had been driving Corvettes since 1973, I remember being slightly intimidated during my first oil change shortly after buying our C6 in April of 2005.

Forgive me for beating a dead horse, but the crankcase capacity posts throughout Corvette Forum seem to overwhelmingly suggest that the Z51 option requires 6.0 quarts, and 5.5 quarts without the Z-51 option. However, I can find nothing in official print that says the Z51 takes an extra half quart. Today I dug out my 15 pound two-volume Corvette Service manual to get the opinion of the Chevrolet design engineers. They say 5.5 quarts without reference to Z51. In addition, my subscription to AllData is consistent with the official Corvette service manual at 5.5 quarts for the 2005 model year when changing the oil and filter.

On another note, I respectfully submit that I still have concerns about a considerable amount of oil remaining in the oil pan, south of the drain plug, when using ramps - as I stated in my 2011 reply to your original post. However, everyone uses ramps and the safety and ease of ramps might offset any small residual oil remaining in the oil pan. I still use a jack as pictured herein, and I lower the jack down to driving height after removing the drain plug for about 10 minutes, before raising the vehicle up again to replace the drain plug.

Surely we could find an official General Motors source who could clear up the crankcase capacity issue once and for all. It seems logical that the oil cooler could possibly hold a half quart, but perhaps that half quart stays in the oil cooler and respective hoses during oil changes. It is possible if not likely that so many posts in Corvette Forum say 6.0 quarts are required with Z51, that an urban myth is being perpetuated. I have never put more than 5.5 quarts in my 2005 with Z51, and I bought it new. The dip stick photo herein looks like the oil level is on the Full mark to me, after changing the oil last Sunday and filling with 5.5 quarts.

A reasonable person might suggest that the car owner put in 5.5 quarts and check the level on the dipstick. All auto owners’ manuals suggest checking the dipstick after an oil change. My dipstick shows full with 5.5 quarts.

Last week I changed the oil in my fleet of three vehicles and could kick myself in the rear for forgetting to drill a small hole in the bottom of all three oil filters. The guy in 2011 who mentioned poking a hole in filters with a nail had a great idea, though I don’t have room under there to swing a hammer while changing the oil. Next time I will use my cordless drill with maybe a 3/16” bit and allow the filters to drain before removal. Though 4 out of 5 times I can do the dirty deed without spilling a drop on the garage floor, invariably oil drips all over the exhaust pipe and has to be wiped off. Not a big deal – just an insult to my ego. Perhaps it has been mentioned before, but for newbies it is prudent to remove the oil filler cap before draining oil for easier flow out of the drain plug hole. Reversing your ramps is totally cool, and maybe that will help me with a future project where I need room behind the front wheels.

Any source you might have regarding crankcase capacity would be appreciated. Perhaps there is a way to communicate with appropriate General Motors engineers on Corvette Forum? I’m not particularly skilled at navigating forums but I know you are highly skilled with the forum.

Best regards -
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Last edited by Doppler1992; 02-26-2017 at 10:20 PM. Reason: Typo



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