Need advice for removing scratches from the clearcoat
04-09-2009, 11:49 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Need advice for removing scratches from the clearcoat
Hello,
I just purchased a Victory Red 2008 LS3 Z51 M6 from our local dealer on Saturday and I am having a mini stroke over the fact (some of which I was aware of) that there are more (sure hope it's only in the clearcoat) showroom scratches in the fender tops, hood and a few other locations like the top of both doors.
My first question is: can these be buffed out with an orbital or wheel?
I have no experience with buffing scratches so it will be taken to a professional. I also have no idea how thick the factory clearcoat is but given I can not see grooves or feel the scratches with my fingernail I am assuming that they are only into the clear but one scratch is about a foot long. These scratches for the most part have been made by folks leaning over the fenders to look at the engine compartment, rubbing the car or from the occasional wiping down at the dealership. The car arrived to the lot last June and I remember on a few occasions last summer dealership salesman showing it for-sale at various local venues, so it has been handled, rubbed up against and sat in a far amount. The good news id that it never was iin the rain, an nowhere else is any wear and tear visible that makes me come unglued but the obvious marks on the car.
PLEASE SOMEONE WHO HAS LIKELY BEEN HERE BEFORE ASSURE ME THAT THEY WILL COME OUT.
The second question is: if they can be removed what product have you guys used with the best result being scratch removal. Is it recommended to "just" buff the problem spots or do the entire car regardless if it needs it or not?
I wonder if one will be able to tell that certain panels have been buffed and others were not after this. I would rather not have to touch the paint anymore than what is required but I am not sure. In my case the tops of both fenders if not the whole fenders and hood are in need of buffing to remove the scratches along with a few other much smaller areas.
Your response and hopefully assurance will be most appreciated.
Thank you,
I just purchased a Victory Red 2008 LS3 Z51 M6 from our local dealer on Saturday and I am having a mini stroke over the fact (some of which I was aware of) that there are more (sure hope it's only in the clearcoat) showroom scratches in the fender tops, hood and a few other locations like the top of both doors.
My first question is: can these be buffed out with an orbital or wheel?
I have no experience with buffing scratches so it will be taken to a professional. I also have no idea how thick the factory clearcoat is but given I can not see grooves or feel the scratches with my fingernail I am assuming that they are only into the clear but one scratch is about a foot long. These scratches for the most part have been made by folks leaning over the fenders to look at the engine compartment, rubbing the car or from the occasional wiping down at the dealership. The car arrived to the lot last June and I remember on a few occasions last summer dealership salesman showing it for-sale at various local venues, so it has been handled, rubbed up against and sat in a far amount. The good news id that it never was iin the rain, an nowhere else is any wear and tear visible that makes me come unglued but the obvious marks on the car.
PLEASE SOMEONE WHO HAS LIKELY BEEN HERE BEFORE ASSURE ME THAT THEY WILL COME OUT.
The second question is: if they can be removed what product have you guys used with the best result being scratch removal. Is it recommended to "just" buff the problem spots or do the entire car regardless if it needs it or not?
I wonder if one will be able to tell that certain panels have been buffed and others were not after this. I would rather not have to touch the paint anymore than what is required but I am not sure. In my case the tops of both fenders if not the whole fenders and hood are in need of buffing to remove the scratches along with a few other much smaller areas.
Your response and hopefully assurance will be most appreciated.
Thank you,
04-10-2009, 12:23 AM
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2008
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hard to tell without pictures, But assuming they are only clearcoat scratches ( did not cut through to the base) they can be wetsanded and buffed out by a professional detailer or quality body shop. Product we use at my shop is 3M Rubbing compound applied with a variable speed circular buffer with a foam pad and then we finish it up with "Finesse-it" for a showroom gloss.
04-10-2009, 12:29 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: The Beautiful Inland Empire WA.
Posts: 5,933
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
7 Posts
Read through this thread and see if it helps you understand how to do this and what to use:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-nxt2-wow.html
I hope this helps.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-nxt2-wow.html
I hope this helps.
04-10-2009, 01:50 AM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you for your replies and guidance.
Ok, so I am not the only one concerned with the showroom swirl/scratch marks that some of our cars are delivered with.
Who makes Finesse-it and is this the final wax application?
C6NRED: The link was very useful, thank you. Is NXT the wax treatment and do you mask the black trim on your VR C6 before buffing?
Are you using as well a 8 inch pad?
Sounds like starting with Ultrafina is recommended and using a wool pad is only for deeper or stubborn marks by someone experienced.
I will look for a bodyman who has the eye, patience, and experience next week to tackle my paint.
Again thank you for your contributions!
49northls3
Who makes Finesse-it and is this the final wax application?
C6NRED: The link was very useful, thank you. Is NXT the wax treatment and do you mask the black trim on your VR C6 before buffing?
Are you using as well a 8 inch pad?
Sounds like starting with Ultrafina is recommended and using a wool pad is only for deeper or stubborn marks by someone experienced.
I will look for a bodyman who has the eye, patience, and experience next week to tackle my paint.
Again thank you for your contributions!
49northls3
04-10-2009, 10:49 AM
#6
Team Owner
I know I'm late to the party here so just my .02. IMO if the car has been through such rough treatment you should have the whole car professionally buffed to remove any minor imperfections you haven't found yet but will undoubtedly bother you later when you do find them. And the dealer should pay for it......at least most of the cost. Best of luck. I'm sure it will turn out fine.....it's just the annoyance of having to do it. 
04-10-2009, 10:53 AM
#7
Team Owner
I'd try Zaino's All-In-One polish. If the scratches aren't too deep this may fix your problems. I just used it on my wife's 2009 SRX (Crystal Red) that had some minor but annoying scratches in the clear coat and after one application the paint looks "flawless".
Good luck
Tom
Good luck
Tom
04-10-2009, 10:56 AM
#8
Safety Car
Hello,
I just purchased a Victory Red 2008 LS3 Z51 M6 from our local dealer on Saturday and I am having a mini stroke over the fact (some of which I was aware of) that there are more (sure hope it's only in the clearcoat) showroom scratches in the fender tops, hood and a few other locations like the top of both doors.
My first question is: can these be buffed out with an orbital or wheel?
I have no experience with buffing scratches so it will be taken to a professional. I also have no idea how thick the factory clearcoat is but given I can not see grooves or feel the scratches with my fingernail I am assuming that they are only into the clear but one scratch is about a foot long. These scratches for the most part have been made by folks leaning over the fenders to look at the engine compartment, rubbing the car or from the occasional wiping down at the dealership. The car arrived to the lot last June and I remember on a few occasions last summer dealership salesman showing it for-sale at various local venues, so it has been handled, rubbed up against and sat in a far amount. The good news id that it never was iin the rain, an nowhere else is any wear and tear visible that makes me come unglued but the obvious marks on the car.
PLEASE SOMEONE WHO HAS LIKELY BEEN HERE BEFORE ASSURE ME THAT THEY WILL COME OUT.
The second question is: if they can be removed what product have you guys used with the best result being scratch removal. Is it recommended to "just" buff the problem spots or do the entire car regardless if it needs it or not?
I wonder if one will be able to tell that certain panels have been buffed and others were not after this. I would rather not have to touch the paint anymore than what is required but I am not sure. In my case the tops of both fenders if not the whole fenders and hood are in need of buffing to remove the scratches along with a few other much smaller areas.
Your response and hopefully assurance will be most appreciated.
Thank you,
I just purchased a Victory Red 2008 LS3 Z51 M6 from our local dealer on Saturday and I am having a mini stroke over the fact (some of which I was aware of) that there are more (sure hope it's only in the clearcoat) showroom scratches in the fender tops, hood and a few other locations like the top of both doors.
My first question is: can these be buffed out with an orbital or wheel?
I have no experience with buffing scratches so it will be taken to a professional. I also have no idea how thick the factory clearcoat is but given I can not see grooves or feel the scratches with my fingernail I am assuming that they are only into the clear but one scratch is about a foot long. These scratches for the most part have been made by folks leaning over the fenders to look at the engine compartment, rubbing the car or from the occasional wiping down at the dealership. The car arrived to the lot last June and I remember on a few occasions last summer dealership salesman showing it for-sale at various local venues, so it has been handled, rubbed up against and sat in a far amount. The good news id that it never was iin the rain, an nowhere else is any wear and tear visible that makes me come unglued but the obvious marks on the car.
PLEASE SOMEONE WHO HAS LIKELY BEEN HERE BEFORE ASSURE ME THAT THEY WILL COME OUT.
The second question is: if they can be removed what product have you guys used with the best result being scratch removal. Is it recommended to "just" buff the problem spots or do the entire car regardless if it needs it or not?
I wonder if one will be able to tell that certain panels have been buffed and others were not after this. I would rather not have to touch the paint anymore than what is required but I am not sure. In my case the tops of both fenders if not the whole fenders and hood are in need of buffing to remove the scratches along with a few other much smaller areas.
Your response and hopefully assurance will be most appreciated.
Thank you,
In short, ir souns like your scratches could be polished out with an orbital buffer or rotary, most likely a rotary. You will need some good polishes(Menzerna). If I were you, I'd take it to a good detailer who knows what he's doing, not a body shop!
Last edited by 03 Z-oh-6; 04-10-2009 at 11:00 AM.
04-10-2009, 11:00 AM
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Chatsworth California
Posts: 17,373
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Ask these questions in the care care section of this forum. Lots of knowledgeable people will give you more accurate information.
In short, ir souns like your scratches could be polished out with an orbital buffer or rotary, most likely a rotary. You will need some good polishes(Menzerna). If I were you, I' take it to a good detailer who knows what he's doing, not a body shop!
In short, ir souns like your scratches could be polished out with an orbital buffer or rotary, most likely a rotary. You will need some good polishes(Menzerna). If I were you, I' take it to a good detailer who knows what he's doing, not a body shop!
04-10-2009, 11:27 AM
#10
Team Owner
Do it yourself, and enjoy the pride of ownership.
Plenty of kits out there to get you started. Griots comes to mind. You can buy the whole kit, comes with a CD on how to do it, and you'll get great results. There are also how-to videos on their site.
Then you can do annual touchups on your own!
My 2006 looked way better than new with a day's work on it last year. And I can say I did it myself, which is satisfying. It's not rocket science, by any means.
Plenty of kits out there to get you started. Griots comes to mind. You can buy the whole kit, comes with a CD on how to do it, and you'll get great results. There are also how-to videos on their site.
Then you can do annual touchups on your own!
My 2006 looked way better than new with a day's work on it last year. And I can say I did it myself, which is satisfying. It's not rocket science, by any means.
Last edited by scottycards; 04-10-2009 at 11:30 AM.
04-10-2009, 12:10 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
I know I'm late to the party here so just my .02. IMO if the car has been through such rough treatment you should have the whole car professionally buffed to remove any minor imperfections you haven't found yet but will undoubtedly bother you later when you do find them. And the dealer should pay for it......at least most of the cost. Best of luck. I'm sure it will turn out fine.....it's just the annoyance of having to do it.
The dealer should have noted this on the paperwork. And paid for the work. That is the sign of a good dealer.
04-10-2009, 12:34 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
It sounds like you have two choices.
1. Go to a professional detailer who comes highly recommended, not one of those local car wash guys who do a $150 job. It will probably cost you somewhere north of $300 for the car to be done. Ask lots of questions. Many will do what looks like a nice job by using products that contain fillers to make the car look great when they're done, but after a couple of washings you will be close to right back where you started from. You want to make sure the detailer does actual paint correction, not masking. A good detailer will be able to do the right job for you. You could post up your location in the car care section and ask for recommendations. There are lots of really knowledgeable and helpful people who post there regularly.
2. Buy yourself a random orbital and some good polish. The Flex 3401 is the current buffer of choice for many, and Menzerna's Super Intensive Polish, followed by their Nano Polish are what many have found success with on the Vette's hard clear coat. There are a couple of forum vendors who will sell you the Flex, pads, and Menzerna Polishes. Sometimes as part of a package. If you buy the equipment chances are good that you will probably pay about what a good detailer would charge you, but you will have the right stuff to do it time and time again.
1. Go to a professional detailer who comes highly recommended, not one of those local car wash guys who do a $150 job. It will probably cost you somewhere north of $300 for the car to be done. Ask lots of questions. Many will do what looks like a nice job by using products that contain fillers to make the car look great when they're done, but after a couple of washings you will be close to right back where you started from. You want to make sure the detailer does actual paint correction, not masking. A good detailer will be able to do the right job for you. You could post up your location in the car care section and ask for recommendations. There are lots of really knowledgeable and helpful people who post there regularly.
2. Buy yourself a random orbital and some good polish. The Flex 3401 is the current buffer of choice for many, and Menzerna's Super Intensive Polish, followed by their Nano Polish are what many have found success with on the Vette's hard clear coat. There are a couple of forum vendors who will sell you the Flex, pads, and Menzerna Polishes. Sometimes as part of a package. If you buy the equipment chances are good that you will probably pay about what a good detailer would charge you, but you will have the right stuff to do it time and time again.
04-10-2009, 12:46 PM
#13
Safety Car
It sounds like you have two choices.
1. Go to a professional detailer who comes highly recommended, not one of those local car wash guys who do a $150 job. It will probably cost you somewhere north of $300 for the car to be done. Ask lots of questions. Many will do what looks like a nice job by using products that contain fillers to make the car look great when they're done, but after a couple of washings you will be close to right back where you started from. You want to make sure the detailer does actual paint correction, not masking. A good detailer will be able to do the right job for you. You could post up your location in the car care section and ask for recommendations. There are lots of really knowledgeable and helpful people who post there regularly.
2. Buy yourself a random orbital and some good polish. The Flex 3401 is the current buffer of choice for many, and Menzerna's Super Intensive Polish, followed by their Nano Polish are what many have found success with on the Vette's hard clear coat. There are a couple of forum vendors who will sell you the Flex, pads, and Menzerna Polishes. Sometimes as part of a package. If you buy the equipment chances are good that you will probably pay about what a good detailer would charge you, but you will have the right stuff to do it time and time again.
1. Go to a professional detailer who comes highly recommended, not one of those local car wash guys who do a $150 job. It will probably cost you somewhere north of $300 for the car to be done. Ask lots of questions. Many will do what looks like a nice job by using products that contain fillers to make the car look great when they're done, but after a couple of washings you will be close to right back where you started from. You want to make sure the detailer does actual paint correction, not masking. A good detailer will be able to do the right job for you. You could post up your location in the car care section and ask for recommendations. There are lots of really knowledgeable and helpful people who post there regularly.
2. Buy yourself a random orbital and some good polish. The Flex 3401 is the current buffer of choice for many, and Menzerna's Super Intensive Polish, followed by their Nano Polish are what many have found success with on the Vette's hard clear coat. There are a couple of forum vendors who will sell you the Flex, pads, and Menzerna Polishes. Sometimes as part of a package. If you buy the equipment chances are good that you will probably pay about what a good detailer would charge you, but you will have the right stuff to do it time and time again.
