RogerC6

I finally found a little time to work on my car and the next on the list was lowering, I seen many post on the matter and I wanted to do it with minimum disassembly, or non at all.
I wanted to lower it just enough to eliminate the unsightly gap between the tire and fender, nothing radical.
I got a set of rubber pads from Ecklers, they cost less than the bolts, with the same results, and I also had no intention on removing the bolts from the springs, that required removing the shock and sway bars, I instead did it this way.
After lifting car and placing a stand on the spring to relieve the tension I used a sharpened gasket scraper to slice the original factory rubber pads, and any excess glue that remained, I then slipped the new pads and I was done. I spent more time lifting the car than doing the actual work.








After driving the car to settle the suspension a quick check on the alignment showed no changes from factory settings. The difference in handling is very noticeable.

Next on the list, finding a nice set of wheels, with the same offset as the factory ones, the K&N induction should arrive monday, and thats a 30 minute job.

0Madvette Motorsports

Looks great!! Very cool tip!!

miami08VETTE

Cool. I did not know that this alternate method was available. So no turning of the bolts? How do the new pads stay in? You say you just slipped in the new ones. Also, can you post the part number or other identifier to finds them by? Finally about how much owuld you say it cam down? Mine is already a little lower due to the Koni FSD's. I would like to estimate how much lower I would be via this method.

thanks

RogerC6

Ecklers part #48719, The pad just snaps in place it has a lip, I lowered mine 1 3/4 inches. I can still come down some more in the front but I wanted the same gap fron and rear. I did turned the bolt up into the spring, but thats very easy once is unloaded.

Bob06COUPE

saved yourself some labor & $$...congrats!...thought about just the thinner pad vs replace the complete bolt..wanted to keep the stock bolts unmodified to replace in case of future sale.

miami08VETTE

One last question. It seems from the pic that the new pad is about half as thick as the OEM. Would it stand to reason that just that difference would lower the car some without turning the bolts at all? If so that is what would work for me. Looks like 1/2" less on the pad and the 1/2" to 3/4" that my FSD's lowered my car would provide just what I want.

RogerC6

The pads alone should give you what you want, if you want a little extra, turn the bolt, if you do, mark it with whiteout so you can count the turns.

miami08VETTE

Thanks for all the great info!

not08crmanymore

Nice job!!Can't c6's be lowered just like c5's??Turn the 4 bolts on the corners and that's that???

bent

nice!!

miami08VETTE

Yes they can, but changing out or eliminating the bushings allows for more of a drop. In some cases the bolts have very little play left and the bushing have to come out to achieve any kind of drop.

danl72

Cool. Thanks for the tip.

VET4LES

Marc V.

Cool. Hopefully it will hold up over time and not wear out.

RanGer498

corvette dave

Roger,
Tell me how you did a quick check of the alignment.

not08crmanymore

Thanks.

jpuli28

Did you remove the ENTIRE factory bushing? Or just half of it before slipping in the Eckler bushing?

the1n_Only

I used the same thing, and both of my rears came off during normal driving. Everything was fine for about a month, roughly a 1000 miles, then I noticed a squeak in the rear. Come to find out the slip on pads came off and it was metal to metal. Just be careful and watch out. I ordered new bolt with the polyurethane bushing molded around the bolt. Good Luck

journeyc6

check your pads/cups frequently, I had that mod and only after a couple of weeks one of the pads/cups were gone!!!!!