vettemann62

DIY: (REAR ONLY) C6 stud replacement.

I was unable to find any posting on this procedure on this forum, even googled it. Lot's of misinformation too! YIKES!!I hope this helps so you don't have to go through what I did! So hear goes:

What not to do:
* Do not drill a hole in the backing plate in order to slide the wheel stud out. The angle is still to steep to do so.
* No need to remove the emergency brake assembly-although I did. (Getting the emergency brake drum with the spring clip back on is a little tricky if you've never done it before. I found it easy)
* The entire knuckle assembly does NOT have to be removed, (Can I Get an AMEN!)

OK here's what I found that worked the easiest:
1) Wheel chocks under the front 2 wheels
2) Put the car in neutral just in case you need to rotate the axle. (Must do this before removing caliper!!)
3) Jack the car up so both rear tires are off the ground.

4) Remove wheel, caliper assembly & disc
5) I used wd40 on the stud then with a hammer, a few medium hits & they were out. Many people on this site recommend removing the hub 1st. Do so if you are so inclined. Mine slid right out. BO-DA-BING!
3) Remove the large axle nut (you will need a deep 33-34mm socket) & slide the spindle out only enough to create enough room behind to pull the old stud out & put the new one in. Or remove the whole thing & put it on a bench(I didn't)
4) Put the new stud in & pull it through by tightening a lug nut but first put some washers on the stud so the lug nut doesn't bottom out
5) Slide the spindle back into position & tighten the large 33-34mm nut
6) Reassemble
7) You may need to put a "C" clamp on the caliper piston in order to open it up so it fits over the disc.

Took 45 minutes once I fiquered out what to do. THIS IS FOR THE REAR ONLY, I BELIEVE THE FRONT IS DIFFERENT!!

FYI: A reciprocating saw will cut through these studs like butter. I thought they were hardened to the point where they could not be cut with a metal blade. No need to cut them, just thought i'd share that.

Feel free to suggest info & I will add it if it is applicable, like nut sizes, torque specs....

Good Luck,
Steve from NY

07MontRedcp

33-34mm

BJK

vettemann62

Thanks, updated it

KENZ51

This is one of the many reasons I love this forum! to both of You!

RicK T

Thanks for sharing. I will save this for the future.

cmonkey713

Very helpful, thanks for posting.

SinisterC6

were you able to reuse the axle nut? what did you torque it back to? any loctitite?

CO Lightfoot

You should not reuse the axle nut. See Talon90's post #36: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-danger-2.html

Also, there's a TSB on this subject (post #8): http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...a-warning.html

SinisterC6

what size studs do our cars run?

F40

mazurekd

I too broke a lug stud on my 2011 base rear right wheel hub. Read various ways of fixing. Took off the caliper and rotor, removed the broken stud. All easy-peasy so far. Not enough room to insert the new one. Read this method of removing the 34mm nut and slide the axle out a bit. I even purchased a new nut since it is not to be reused. I looked at my four volume service manual showing special tools to remove the axle. I know I only wanted to slide it out a bit, but didn't want to chance getting half way though and getting stuck. So... I did what not to do. Removed the parking brake, and drilled a hole in the backing plate, thinking what if I needed to do this again, it would be there. Well, that did work, got the new lug in and pressed on. Then the parking brake had to go back on. I could not get the spring properly attached to the plate and under the PB. I ended up crimping the retaining points down on the spring so it would remain on the plate. Even then, it was a pain to get back together.

In hindsight, I now wish I removed the drive axle as prescribed here. No hole, and the parking break would have been a non-issue. Even if I needed to remove the PB, with the hub pulled out a bit, the spring would be a piece of cake.

Oh well, live and learn.

P.S. Parts guy printed a sheet stating 151ft/lbs on the axle nut. There is a lot of confusion on that.

Please don't rip on me for bringing up an old post... It is still relevant and didn't want to restate what was aleady said. I do expect a certain poster to hate me anyways. Just keep it to yourself please.

theboze

It's only an old post if it's not relevant to someone, but I now have a question if you are still on the forum, or anyone can help. My 2005 has a broken stud on the left rear and I had the caliper, rotor and axle nut off , but how do you get it to move outward? Do you have to loosen the torx bolts on the back side, where one of them is right where the lower support/connects? Any help is appreciated.

mazurekd

Still here. Still with my 2011, though anxiously awaiting a look see at the ME.

Yes, my broken stud was on my right rear. It has been awhile but I do remember drilling a hole in my ‘dust cover’ to access the stud. People said it couldn’t be done, but I did it. I used a 90 degree drill. Tight, but it worked.

Equally hard was reinstalling the “C” spring for the emergency brake. I don’t know if one in on both sides, but it is on the right. Use a piece of string around the spring before installing the shoe, then pull the string down so it snags the retaining indent.

I did not do that the first many times, and heard a slight annoying rattle, thinking it was my Corsa exhaust. I really tightened it, still rattled. Took it to a muffler installer, he really cranked on it. Still a rattle. Disassembled the wheel, again (multiple times), and finally realizing it was that stupid spring. After using the string, it finally snapped where it needed to be, and no more tinny rattle.

They sure don’t make it easy replacing such a small part. Guys on this site write of replacing all the studs (for wider, different wheels) like it’s no big deal. They are either full-time mechanics, or they know something the service manual doesn’t.

Good luck!

Dano523

Not No, but Hell No.

Do not use a hammer to beat the studs out of the wheel hub flange, since they can cause damage to the wheel bearings or even screw up the wheel speed sensors.

Instead, use a wheel stud remover to drive the stud out, which backs the wheel flange up on the back side, so you don't damage the bearings/speed sensors isntead.

theboze

Do you remember how you got the axle to come out far enough to get the stud out or did you just drill he hole and slide it out the back side.?

mazurekd

I was able to drill a hole in the dust shield (backing plate) in a spot where I was able to leave the axle in place. I did have to tap out the broken stud, had no stud remover, plus it was broken right at the flange. I went easy, came out easily.

A point of interest was I found out my torque wrench was optimistic. Comparing to another, then another, I found my studs were under torqued by about 10-12 lbs. I read here that under torqued studs are sometimes the reason of the stud breaking. I was using a rather pricey click model (older Craftsman), now have a few Harbor Freight models I compare to each other when using.

98rzvr6

I know this is an old thread but I just recently did this over the weekend and you will have to loosen the wheel bearing housing to have enough space to get the new and old studs in and out. Its actually a pretty easy job, I was pleasantly surprised.

sscrazy2001

98rzvr6

I didn't touch the emergency brake stuff at all, I removed the 3 bolts t55 and took a hammer and just very very lightly hit the bearing and it came out after the first tap. Very very easy to do. I then took a nut and a fat washer and got them them in easily. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

sscrazy2001