Dealers can't fix my car! What now??
#41
Need update on repair from lstorm2003
lstorm2003,
Our 08 Z51 manual 6 speed does EXACTLY the same thing!!! Please update us on the final fix!!! A lot of us have the same issue.
You have now had the car for 3 1/2 months since the last "fix" at Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevy in Florida. We are waiting to hear if this actually fixed the issue... If so, our dealer here in Prescott, Az. is ready, willing and able to do the same repair if it worked for your C6.
Thanks,
Vette4lyn
Our 08 Z51 manual 6 speed does EXACTLY the same thing!!! Please update us on the final fix!!! A lot of us have the same issue.
You have now had the car for 3 1/2 months since the last "fix" at Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevy in Florida. We are waiting to hear if this actually fixed the issue... If so, our dealer here in Prescott, Az. is ready, willing and able to do the same repair if it worked for your C6.
Thanks,
Vette4lyn
#42
Melting Slicks
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if it is slow turns and at full lock, take the rotors off and clean the rust off the backs where they meet the hub--trust me see the links in this thread. It could be that simple!
#43
Thanks for trying,
Lyn
#44
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Wheel problem!
What wheels are on the car? Stock? Are they forged aluminum? This my sound stupid to some (don't worry I have a flame suit) but I have been through this before, not on a vette, but been through it nonetheless.
Anyway, after many hours of diagnosis, I found the clicking coming from my front wheels was the wheel center caps and was directly related to wheel lug nut torque. Too much torque, click, click, click. Tightening down the wheel lug nuts with the wheels on the ground and the full weight of the car on them, click, click, click.
The way I fixed it, properly torqueing the wheel lug nuts in three passes with the wheels off the ground.
Again, this was not on a vette but it worked for me on forged aluminum rims with removable center caps.
Quick test, take your wheels off, remove the center caps, put the wheels back on, and torque them down in three passes. First pass snug, 2nd pass half the recommend torque, final pass recommend torque. Use a star pattern when torqueing.
Anyway, after many hours of diagnosis, I found the clicking coming from my front wheels was the wheel center caps and was directly related to wheel lug nut torque. Too much torque, click, click, click. Tightening down the wheel lug nuts with the wheels on the ground and the full weight of the car on them, click, click, click.
The way I fixed it, properly torqueing the wheel lug nuts in three passes with the wheels off the ground.
Again, this was not on a vette but it worked for me on forged aluminum rims with removable center caps.
Quick test, take your wheels off, remove the center caps, put the wheels back on, and torque them down in three passes. First pass snug, 2nd pass half the recommend torque, final pass recommend torque. Use a star pattern when torqueing.
#45
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You guys having this noise/clicking issue, have you ever lightly applied the brakes when this happens?
The reason I ask is that I have had (and worked on for others) a few vehicles that made similar sounds and always found it was the brake pads being loose in their mounts/brackets. The pads would ride up the rotor and then drop, ride up the rotor and drop, making a clicking sound that you only heard at low speeds. Only talking 1/64 to 1/32 of movement. Does not take much to make a hell of a racket. If you would lightly touch the brake, the sound would stop. Fix was always to just bend the tabs on the pad retainers a bit to tighten them up. Worked every time to stop the noise and is now something I always check when changing brake pads.
Just throwing out another idea to take a look at.
The reason I ask is that I have had (and worked on for others) a few vehicles that made similar sounds and always found it was the brake pads being loose in their mounts/brackets. The pads would ride up the rotor and then drop, ride up the rotor and drop, making a clicking sound that you only heard at low speeds. Only talking 1/64 to 1/32 of movement. Does not take much to make a hell of a racket. If you would lightly touch the brake, the sound would stop. Fix was always to just bend the tabs on the pad retainers a bit to tighten them up. Worked every time to stop the noise and is now something I always check when changing brake pads.
Just throwing out another idea to take a look at.
Last edited by Swiftrider08; 02-10-2010 at 10:27 PM.
#46
So my 08 Z51 manual 6 sp has 15,000 miles on it and has been in service for about a year now. About 5,000 miles ago it started making this loud clicking noise when you make a sharp left turn... I figured no big deal, a trip to the dealer should sort it out. Boy was I wrong...
So I brought it to Lou Bachrodt Coconut Creek and they replaced 'front wheel hub bearings'. Gave me the car back, problem is gone, for the time being.. A few days later the noise comes back. I bring it back to them, the service writer says must've been a bad set. Replaces them again. A few days later, the noise comes back again! Now he says they must have 'a bad batch of wheel hub bearings'. Long story short he replaces them again, then a few days later again, then a few days later yet again, then about a week later, AGAIN!!
So this last time, they replaced them, the noise went away for about 2 months. Well now its back again, so I brought it to a new dealer. Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevrolet. This service writer claims his "Corvette Guy" is the best and is really miticulous, and that they will sort this problem out "once and for all". LOL!!! I tell him that's pretty much the same thing the last dealer told me about "their guy". (Everyone says "their guy" is the best. But I say, they can't ALL be the best!)
So they keep the car for 2 days and call me to tell me it wasn't ever the wheel bearings. They say its the steering rack. I say ok great, I go pick up the car.
BTW here is what the invoice says "POWER STEERING GEAR SHIFTING ON TURNS. R&R STEERING GEAR AND REPOSITIONED. LUBED CONTACT POINTS AND RETORQURED. 3.5 HOURS = $348.18"
So anyway, I picked up the car (this morning) drove the car all day today then tonight on the way to dinner, you guessed it, the clicking sound is BACK IN FULL FORCE!!!
What the hell do I do now??? How many times do I let them try to fix it? Doesn't GM have some kind of a master mechanic that can come look at the cars that the dealer monkeys can't figure out??
So I brought it to Lou Bachrodt Coconut Creek and they replaced 'front wheel hub bearings'. Gave me the car back, problem is gone, for the time being.. A few days later the noise comes back. I bring it back to them, the service writer says must've been a bad set. Replaces them again. A few days later, the noise comes back again! Now he says they must have 'a bad batch of wheel hub bearings'. Long story short he replaces them again, then a few days later again, then a few days later yet again, then about a week later, AGAIN!!
So this last time, they replaced them, the noise went away for about 2 months. Well now its back again, so I brought it to a new dealer. Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevrolet. This service writer claims his "Corvette Guy" is the best and is really miticulous, and that they will sort this problem out "once and for all". LOL!!! I tell him that's pretty much the same thing the last dealer told me about "their guy". (Everyone says "their guy" is the best. But I say, they can't ALL be the best!)
So they keep the car for 2 days and call me to tell me it wasn't ever the wheel bearings. They say its the steering rack. I say ok great, I go pick up the car.
BTW here is what the invoice says "POWER STEERING GEAR SHIFTING ON TURNS. R&R STEERING GEAR AND REPOSITIONED. LUBED CONTACT POINTS AND RETORQURED. 3.5 HOURS = $348.18"
So anyway, I picked up the car (this morning) drove the car all day today then tonight on the way to dinner, you guessed it, the clicking sound is BACK IN FULL FORCE!!!
What the hell do I do now??? How many times do I let them try to fix it? Doesn't GM have some kind of a master mechanic that can come look at the cars that the dealer monkeys can't figure out??
#48
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St. Jude Donor '12
You guys having this noise/clicking issue, have you ever lightly applied the brakes when this happens?
The reason I ask is that I have had (and worked on for others) a few vehicles that made similar sounds and always found it was the brake pads being loose in their mounts/brackets. The pads would ride up the rotor and then drop, ride up the rotor and drop, making a clicking sound that you only heard at low speeds. Only talking 1/64 to 1/32 of movement. Does not take much to make a hell of a racket. If you would lightly touch the brake, the sound would stop. Fix was always to just bend the tabs on the pad retainers a bit to tighten them up. Worked every time to stop the noise and is now something I always check when changing brake pads.
Just throwing out another idea to take a look at.
The reason I ask is that I have had (and worked on for others) a few vehicles that made similar sounds and always found it was the brake pads being loose in their mounts/brackets. The pads would ride up the rotor and then drop, ride up the rotor and drop, making a clicking sound that you only heard at low speeds. Only talking 1/64 to 1/32 of movement. Does not take much to make a hell of a racket. If you would lightly touch the brake, the sound would stop. Fix was always to just bend the tabs on the pad retainers a bit to tighten them up. Worked every time to stop the noise and is now something I always check when changing brake pads.
Just throwing out another idea to take a look at.
I was going to say the same thing. as a mechanic some 30 plus years ago, this was a not uncommon problem and it was the brake pads loose in the harness just as you said!
#49
Safety Car
I have Lemon Lawed a car in Florida. I would suggest you start the process immediately. The Lemon Law procedure is very good to the consumer and you will get all the money you paid into the car except for the principle on the loan.
If the problem can be resolved you can cease the Lemon Law case. I found that Chevrolet and the dealer were really not interested in fixing the problem and were disconnected from the customer's needs.
I have used the Coconut Creek Lou Bachrodt Service location and found it to be OK. Sales is another matter.
If the problem can be resolved you can cease the Lemon Law case. I found that Chevrolet and the dealer were really not interested in fixing the problem and were disconnected from the customer's needs.
I have used the Coconut Creek Lou Bachrodt Service location and found it to be OK. Sales is another matter.
#51
Melting Slicks
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I see your in South Florida, take the trip to Kendall Chevrolet your car will be fixed by the right person. See Rene and tell him you wnt Stanley to work on the car. The car will be in the right hands and fixed correctly.
#52
Le Mans Master
So my 08 Z51 manual 6 sp has 15,000 miles on it and has been in service for about a year now. About 5,000 miles ago it started making this loud clicking noise when you make a sharp left turn... I figured no big deal, a trip to the dealer should sort it out. Boy was I wrong...
So I brought it to Lou Bachrodt Coconut Creek and they replaced 'front wheel hub bearings'. Gave me the car back, problem is gone, for the time being.. A few days later the noise comes back. I bring it back to them, the service writer says must've been a bad set. Replaces them again. A few days later, the noise comes back again! Now he says they must have 'a bad batch of wheel hub bearings'. Long story short he replaces them again, then a few days later again, then a few days later yet again, then about a week later, AGAIN!!
So this last time, they replaced them, the noise went away for about 2 months. Well now its back again, so I brought it to a new dealer. Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevrolet. This service writer claims his "Corvette Guy" is the best and is really miticulous, and that they will sort this problem out "once and for all". LOL!!! I tell him that's pretty much the same thing the last dealer told me about "their guy". (Everyone says "their guy" is the best. But I say, they can't ALL be the best!)
So they keep the car for 2 days and call me to tell me it wasn't ever the wheel bearings. They say its the steering rack. I say ok great, I go pick up the car.
BTW here is what the invoice says "POWER STEERING GEAR SHIFTING ON TURNS. R&R STEERING GEAR AND REPOSITIONED. LUBED CONTACT POINTS AND RETORQURED. 3.5 HOURS = $348.18"
So anyway, I picked up the car (this morning) drove the car all day today then tonight on the way to dinner, you guessed it, the clicking sound is BACK IN FULL FORCE!!!
What the hell do I do now??? How many times do I let them try to fix it? Doesn't GM have some kind of a master mechanic that can come look at the cars that the dealer monkeys can't figure out??
So I brought it to Lou Bachrodt Coconut Creek and they replaced 'front wheel hub bearings'. Gave me the car back, problem is gone, for the time being.. A few days later the noise comes back. I bring it back to them, the service writer says must've been a bad set. Replaces them again. A few days later, the noise comes back again! Now he says they must have 'a bad batch of wheel hub bearings'. Long story short he replaces them again, then a few days later again, then a few days later yet again, then about a week later, AGAIN!!
So this last time, they replaced them, the noise went away for about 2 months. Well now its back again, so I brought it to a new dealer. Ed Morse Sawgrass Chevrolet. This service writer claims his "Corvette Guy" is the best and is really miticulous, and that they will sort this problem out "once and for all". LOL!!! I tell him that's pretty much the same thing the last dealer told me about "their guy". (Everyone says "their guy" is the best. But I say, they can't ALL be the best!)
So they keep the car for 2 days and call me to tell me it wasn't ever the wheel bearings. They say its the steering rack. I say ok great, I go pick up the car.
BTW here is what the invoice says "POWER STEERING GEAR SHIFTING ON TURNS. R&R STEERING GEAR AND REPOSITIONED. LUBED CONTACT POINTS AND RETORQURED. 3.5 HOURS = $348.18"
So anyway, I picked up the car (this morning) drove the car all day today then tonight on the way to dinner, you guessed it, the clicking sound is BACK IN FULL FORCE!!!
What the hell do I do now??? How many times do I let them try to fix it? Doesn't GM have some kind of a master mechanic that can come look at the cars that the dealer monkeys can't figure out??
z51vett
#53
You guys having this noise/clicking issue, have you ever lightly applied the brakes when this happens?
The reason I ask is that I have had (and worked on for others) a few vehicles that made similar sounds and always found it was the brake pads being loose in their mounts/brackets. The pads would ride up the rotor and then drop, ride up the rotor and drop, making a clicking sound that you only heard at low speeds. Only talking 1/64 to 1/32 of movement. Does not take much to make a hell of a racket. If you would lightly touch the brake, the sound would stop. Fix was always to just bend the tabs on the pad retainers a bit to tighten them up. Worked every time to stop the noise and is now something I always check when changing brake pads.
Just throwing out another idea to take a look at.
The reason I ask is that I have had (and worked on for others) a few vehicles that made similar sounds and always found it was the brake pads being loose in their mounts/brackets. The pads would ride up the rotor and then drop, ride up the rotor and drop, making a clicking sound that you only heard at low speeds. Only talking 1/64 to 1/32 of movement. Does not take much to make a hell of a racket. If you would lightly touch the brake, the sound would stop. Fix was always to just bend the tabs on the pad retainers a bit to tighten them up. Worked every time to stop the noise and is now something I always check when changing brake pads.
Just throwing out another idea to take a look at.
Thanks,
Lyn
#54
Also since the wheels are not stock per activar, they may not set right on the hub. This could be the problem, the NON OEM wheels could be your problem. Some wheels fit snug on the hub, some don't and use the lug nuts to center them ===> that equal the noise when flexing.
Yes, the wheels are Z06 style chromed Factory Reproductions. They appear to be centered when we pulled them off last week and put them back on. The rotor factory retainer clips were removed long ago, and we step torqued the lug nuts in a star pattern using a hand torque wrench... finger tight, 45 lb ft, 90 lb ft.
Lyn
#56
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???
Yes, the wheels are Z06 style chromed Factory Reproductions. They appear to be centered when we pulled them off last week and put them back on. The rotor factory retainer clips were removed long ago, and we step torqued the lug nuts in a star pattern using a hand torque wrench... finger tight, 45 lb ft, 90 lb ft.
Lyn
Lyn
#57
I know that you are DEFINITELY TRYING. I am referring to CLEARANCE (PLAY) NOT CENTERING on the hub. That wheel should fit very tightly on the hub WITHOUT lug nuts! I have those wheels and everyone is different because I had to return one. The replacement was cast (machined) differently than the other three (they also had some variances). They have MORE THAN one mold, some tight, some loose! In fact, in direct talks with them, they were having other problems with them, I got mine when they first came out.
Lyn
#58
Mine is a 2008 C6 Z51 with 15,000 miles as well. the problem is a little bit different: usually it develops a grinding noise when driving between 50-70 mph on the freeway and decelerating or lightly tapping onto the accelerator. The noise gets worse while the engine (transmission ?) heats up, after 20 -30 miles. First I went to Power Chevrolet in Mesa (AZ) their master technician told me "I can hear the noise but I don't have any idea what it could be". So I went to VAN chevrolet in Scottsdale. Their Corvette specialist told me that he knew what it was - the driveshaft. I brought the car back the following week for repair and after a few days I received a phone call " it is not the driveshaft, it is the differential". The car was over a week in the shop and when I picked it up I heard the noise again after about 1/2 mile. According to the service department they had put a completely new differential into the car but I am under the impression that what they are doing is "Trial and Error". Next week I will take it to a third dealership. Let's see if they are going to fix it....
#59
flyhi152,
Noises are often difficult to diagnose. Regardless, I'm sorry you're having trouble with your car. Let us know what you find out.
Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
Noises are often difficult to diagnose. Regardless, I'm sorry you're having trouble with your car. Let us know what you find out.
Chevrolet Customer Service,
Justin
Mine is a 2008 C6 Z51 with 15,000 miles as well. the problem is a little bit different: usually it develops a grinding noise when driving between 50-70 mph on the freeway and decelerating or lightly tapping onto the accelerator. The noise gets worse while the engine (transmission ?) heats up, after 20 -30 miles. First I went to Power Chevrolet in Mesa (AZ) their master technician told me "I can hear the noise but I don't have any idea what it could be". So I went to VAN chevrolet in Scottsdale. Their Corvette specialist told me that he knew what it was - the driveshaft. I brought the car back the following week for repair and after a few days I received a phone call " it is not the driveshaft, it is the differential". The car was over a week in the shop and when I picked it up I heard the noise again after about 1/2 mile. According to the service department they had put a completely new differential into the car but I am under the impression that what they are doing is "Trial and Error". Next week I will take it to a third dealership. Let's see if they are going to fix it....
#60
Grinding noise
It is not my job to diagnose the problem. If the trial-and-error method is the only way to find out what it is there are probably still many possibilities left... until the car is more or less rebuilt. obviously it was not the differential because it was replaced with a new one, however the technicians found metal filings in the gears indicating that there was something wrong with it.