jpee

Yea, thats fine.. but How are you going to check the accuracy of the Torque Wrench??

Whisky

That's the way I always did it and it was fine. But C6 wheels seem to be a little finicky. I bought some new wheels for my vette and had two places try to balance them with differing results. I could not get rid of the vibration. So I took them off and remounted them with a torque wrench and not an impact wrench.
90% of vibration is gone.

6spdg37s

a torque wrench torque wrench ?

IDK you have just blown my mind... I must call out of work all week while I figure this riddle/puzzle out !!!!?

Silverspeed

Use a calibrated torque wrench.

jpee

And how is that done.. take a 100 lb weight and put it on a 1 ft bar.. or 50 lb on a 2 ft bar ?

I'm serious here....

Gearhead Jim

Some shops will calibrate the wrench for you. Snap On will check/calibrate their own ones.

Or you can get a beam-type wrench (shouldn't ever go out of adjustment) and make a double female fitting. See what the beam says when your adjustable clicks at the different settings. Then sell me a duplicate fitting so i can check my own wrench.

LMB-C6

Actually I have heard that is the way to do it.

You mount the torque wrench so the axis of rotation is parallel to the floor and ONLY the square drive is being held in a vice (or, put a large socket in the vice and attach the wrench to it). Measure a spot on the handle of the torque wrench (let's say 18", aka 1.5 ft.) away from the center of the square drive - mark that spot. Make sure the wrench is set to 'tighten' and rotate it so the handle is parallel to the floor. Now find a weight that you can suspend (hang) from the handle - preferably something heavy that would take the wrench to the middle of it's operating range. Set the wrench torque = weight x 1.5 ft/lbs. Now hang the weight. It should click at that setting or very close to it - you would back off 1 ft/lb or add 1 ft/lb to find what the limits are.

jpee

"EXACTLY" what I've been told...I am going to try it on mine and see how close it is..

VET4LES

That's why I take me wheels off at home and take them to the shop. As I have said many times on this forum there is only one way to know it's done right and that's to do it your self.

LTC Z06

Seriously??? That is what torquing is for, you stretch the bolt to the spec so it will hold. Remind me not to ride in your cars.

Silverspeed

I've heard some whoppers on here, but that one has got to be up at the top.

Gearhead Jim

Some torque values are a "torque to yield" number that does indeed permanently distort the threads. Normally, you must discard the fastener after it has been torqued once.

Wheel nuts are obviously ok for multiple uses, and the torque specs are low enough to prevent any permanent distortion.

An engineer once told me that engine and braking force is transferred from the hub to the wheel by the clamping force of the studs/nuts that are properly torqued, not by the shear strength of the studs.

BTW, most fastener torque values are for dry threads, any oil or anti-seize will act as a lubricant and the normal numbers will actually be an over-torque.

centennialGS

Ok, reviving old thread. If you put aftermarket wheels on your car, do you go by manufacturer recommendation, or by the aftermarket wheel manufacturer recommendation? Or by the tuner lug nut recommendation?

captain vette

I was I the dealership last week and I can confirm it is 100 pounds

Flashdrive

The "correct" term is pound/feet (LB/FT). But we get ft/lb, feet, pounds, gallons, or sheep. Just follow at the numbers on the wrench. My ideal is 93.

TorchRedFred

Am I the only person that tightens lug nuts by hand until I come to the conclusion that this feels like a 100 ft/lbs?

919cw313

You chose this as your first post?

449er

No one has mentioned it here yet, but the answer is 100ft lbs

GREENKAR

It was answered 9 years ago. Wake up!!!

BADBIRDCAGE

Make certain the torque wrench is “ dead on ***** “ accurate.