Car won"t start total mystery
08-26-2010, 10:37 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
Suggestion...
If this issue occurs again.....
Place the FOB into the slot in the glove box to help rule out/ or establish communication.
Also, we assume batteries in the FOB are new and car battery is load tested and OK.
If this issue occurs again.....
Place the FOB into the slot in the glove box to help rule out/ or establish communication.
Also, we assume batteries in the FOB are new and car battery is load tested and OK.
08-26-2010, 09:53 PM
#22
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Battery is new and dealer said they did check. First time I had to be towed we tried jumpers first and nothing
08-26-2010, 09:55 PM
#23
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Did that and new batteries in fob no change didn't start.
08-26-2010, 09:57 PM
#24
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I want to add that if this happens and it's a MN6 make sure you are going to the floor with the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal switch is on the floor, which is different than any other car I have owned. Symptom is that the car will go through a start-up sequence but not crank.
08-26-2010, 10:00 PM
#26
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Many are dealing with this column lock headache. Like Les said, make sure the battery is fully charged. No one has found a permanent fix but I did find this. It's not what anyone wants to here about their car but it may save you if you get stranded. Don't know how reliable it is. 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...lumn-lock.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...lumn-lock.html
08-28-2010, 06:51 PM
#27
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My dealer is not the best
Now you can understand the 'glories' of owning the first year of our beloved C6. For the 1st 2 years a good portion of all '05 MN6 owners here had the same worry of getting stranded. DBS, where the battery suddenly and inexplicably goes dead, affected up to 1/3 of all '05 MN6 owners here on the forum. After 2 years the reason and solution was finally found for DBS, a glitch in the cars computer shut down sequence.
Now you may not have DBS, as DBS usually results in a totally stone dead car. But first have your battery thoroughly tested. And check all you battery connections. A corroded ground is not uncommon.
Then make sure that your car has had, or if not, gets the BCM reflash by your dealer to prevent DBS.
Now you may not have DBS, as DBS usually results in a totally stone dead car. But first have your battery thoroughly tested. And check all you battery connections. A corroded ground is not uncommon.
Then make sure that your car has had, or if not, gets the BCM reflash by your dealer to prevent DBS.
Thanks
08-28-2010, 07:35 PM
#28
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Sent PM
Hello,
I do apologize that you are still having problems. Can you send me the following in a private message:
First and Last Name:
Telephone Number:
VIN:
Dealership:
With this information I can look into everything further. If you remember your Service Advisor’s name, could you please send that, too? I would like to contact the dealership and speak with them also. Again, I do apologize for your inconveniences.
Geoff Allen
Chevrolet Customer Service
I do apologize that you are still having problems. Can you send me the following in a private message:
First and Last Name:
Telephone Number:
VIN:
Dealership:
With this information I can look into everything further. If you remember your Service Advisor’s name, could you please send that, too? I would like to contact the dealership and speak with them also. Again, I do apologize for your inconveniences.
Geoff Allen
Chevrolet Customer Service
08-28-2010, 07:50 PM
#29
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anybody know who can put an ignition key in
Does anybody know a company that can retrofit a 2005 to put a regular ignition switch in it, and get rid of the key fob?
Thanks
Thanks
08-28-2010, 08:26 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
DBS = Dead Battery Syndrome, problems with factory equipment draining the battery over time. Sometimes short time, sometimes a few days....
Good Luck.
BTW, if they cant fix it, talk about a dealer buy-back or lemon law...
08-28-2010, 08:27 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
Hi.I had this issue once with my 05 mn6 z51 when I had that car.It corrected itself after the 1st time.I'd agree that you may have a attery issue,especially if it's the original one.Always leave it in reverse when u park and hooked to a tender if it sits longer then a day!
Totally!
09-01-2010, 09:23 PM
#32
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coincidence
Did he at least show you the button sequence he used to get it started?
I've had similar issues with mine, though slightly different. I get in to start the car, push the brake, hear the clicks, then press start. It sounds like the car is coughing (I know, wierd analogy but I can't think of a better description). After one or two coughs or sputters there is nothing else. I release the brake and try again, and it will either start or nothing at all (not even clicks).
I think it was just a coinsidence. I you wait an hour it starts like normal. I think it had just been long enough that it started. I have tried every sequence imaginable, none work, you just have to wait
Of course the dealer couldn't find anything when I took it in last week, most likely due to the intermittent nature of the problem. Extremely frustrating...
I'm not sure if it is a fuel pump, ignition, computer or some other issue.
I've had similar issues with mine, though slightly different. I get in to start the car, push the brake, hear the clicks, then press start. It sounds like the car is coughing (I know, wierd analogy but I can't think of a better description). After one or two coughs or sputters there is nothing else. I release the brake and try again, and it will either start or nothing at all (not even clicks).
I think it was just a coinsidence. I you wait an hour it starts like normal. I think it had just been long enough that it started. I have tried every sequence imaginable, none work, you just have to wait
Of course the dealer couldn't find anything when I took it in last week, most likely due to the intermittent nature of the problem. Extremely frustrating...
I'm not sure if it is a fuel pump, ignition, computer or some other issue.
09-01-2010, 10:27 PM
#33
Le Mans Master
I think the battery is okay because my radio and instrument lights come on. I have had the rare experience where all power is lost to the point where I can only get out of the car if I use the manual door release. Fortunately I've never had to call for a tow, it usually starts if I wait between 1 and 5 minutes.
09-01-2010, 10:38 PM
#34
Melting Slicks
Cars that have more electronic devices than the avg car can have a battery that might only be a volt or so under its max level and will have issues as all the devices are trying to pull current at the same time, so yea it might need a new battery. My Audi did that to me after a year and they put a new one in and went slightly larger with the new one.
09-02-2010, 07:01 PM
#36
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Only 6 months old bat. Dealer supposedly checked it. Before I had it towed the tow company put jumpers on it to make sure. Didn't start. If it was the bat when the jumped it I would think it would have started
09-02-2010, 10:37 PM
#37
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I had the exact same problems with my 2005 MN6 ... I spent ~$150 on a red top Optima and changed the batteries in the FOBs; worked like a champ for me. thomas
09-03-2010, 02:21 AM
#38
No start, click, no jump, dealer not finding anything wrong because car starts fine.
Sounds exactly like the chain of events I went through on my '05.
It is the start of the death of the steering column lock actuator.
It will become more frequent eventually and dealer will still not be able to diagnose it until you tell them the column lock actuator part#.
Seems like a LOT of '05's on the forum are having this problem lately, so I am guessing the life of that part is about 5~6 years. Mine was purchased Nov 2004 and failed repeatedly towards end of 2009, so mine lasted 5 years daily driving with more start cyles than normal.
Sounds exactly like the chain of events I went through on my '05.
It is the start of the death of the steering column lock actuator.
It will become more frequent eventually and dealer will still not be able to diagnose it until you tell them the column lock actuator part#.
Seems like a LOT of '05's on the forum are having this problem lately, so I am guessing the life of that part is about 5~6 years. Mine was purchased Nov 2004 and failed repeatedly towards end of 2009, so mine lasted 5 years daily driving with more start cyles than normal.
09-03-2010, 07:51 PM
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09-03-2010, 07:55 PM
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Thanks
No start, click, no jump, dealer not finding anything wrong because car starts fine.
Sounds exactly like the chain of events I went through on my '05.
It is the start of the death of the steering column lock actuator.
It will become more frequent eventually and dealer will still not be able to diagnose it until you tell them the column lock actuator part#.
Seems like a LOT of '05's on the forum are having this problem lately, so I am guessing the life of that part is about 5~6 years. Mine was purchased Nov 2004 and failed repeatedly towards end of 2009, so mine lasted 5 years daily driving with more start cyles than normal.
Sounds exactly like the chain of events I went through on my '05.
It is the start of the death of the steering column lock actuator.
It will become more frequent eventually and dealer will still not be able to diagnose it until you tell them the column lock actuator part#.
Seems like a LOT of '05's on the forum are having this problem lately, so I am guessing the life of that part is about 5~6 years. Mine was purchased Nov 2004 and failed repeatedly towards end of 2009, so mine lasted 5 years daily driving with more start cyles than normal.
Thanks