HOW-TO fix gas door with sticking release plunger
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
DIY - HOW-TO fix gas door with sticking release plunger
DIY - Do It Yourself Fix
Does your fuel door not want to stay closed. Is the plunger stuck in the down position and not catching the fuel door latch? Don't spend $70 for the cable assembly....
I had the same problem about a year ago. The spring on the plunger had corroded and the plunger would stick in the down position. I could manually push it back out with the emergency cable but it would eventually push back in the the door would pop back open. Pretty embarrassing driving around with your gas door open.
What I did was pull back the interior liner on the driver side above the rear tire, exposing the solenoid cable and emergency cable. Take a small spring that has light tension and hook one side to where the emergency cable is attached, and then hook the other side to the cardboard backing of the insulation. Basically you are pulling the plunger assembly to the up position to hold the gas door shut. I've had this fix for a year now and it works great. I used a carb spring that I had in the garage so my fix was free, but you can buy a $1 spring at the hardware store.
Does your fuel door not want to stay closed. Is the plunger stuck in the down position and not catching the fuel door latch? Don't spend $70 for the cable assembly....
I had the same problem about a year ago. The spring on the plunger had corroded and the plunger would stick in the down position. I could manually push it back out with the emergency cable but it would eventually push back in the the door would pop back open. Pretty embarrassing driving around with your gas door open.
What I did was pull back the interior liner on the driver side above the rear tire, exposing the solenoid cable and emergency cable. Take a small spring that has light tension and hook one side to where the emergency cable is attached, and then hook the other side to the cardboard backing of the insulation. Basically you are pulling the plunger assembly to the up position to hold the gas door shut. I've had this fix for a year now and it works great. I used a carb spring that I had in the garage so my fix was free, but you can buy a $1 spring at the hardware store.
Last edited by gr86ss; 07-30-2013 at 11:11 PM. Reason: added DIY to title for search engine
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Northern, VA
Posts: 46,100
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Interesting fix. Thanks.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
#10
Le Mans Master
DYI - Do It Yourself Fix
Does your fuel door not want to stay closed. Is the plunger stuck in the down position and not catching the fuel door latch? Don't spend $70 for the cable assembly....
I had the same problem about a year ago. The spring on the plunger had corroded and the plunger would stick in the down position. I could manually push it back out with the emergency cable but it would eventually push back in the the door would pop back open. Pretty embarrassing driving around with your gas door open.
What I did was pull back the interior liner on the driver side above the rear tire, exposing the solenoid cable and emergency cable. Take a small spring that has light tension and hook one side to where the emergency cable is attached, and then hook the other side to the cardboard backing of the insulation. Basically you are pulling the plunger assembly to the up position to hold the gas door shut. I've had this fix for a year now and it works great. I used a carb spring that I had in the garage so my fix was free, but you can buy a $1 spring at the hardware store.
Does your fuel door not want to stay closed. Is the plunger stuck in the down position and not catching the fuel door latch? Don't spend $70 for the cable assembly....
I had the same problem about a year ago. The spring on the plunger had corroded and the plunger would stick in the down position. I could manually push it back out with the emergency cable but it would eventually push back in the the door would pop back open. Pretty embarrassing driving around with your gas door open.
What I did was pull back the interior liner on the driver side above the rear tire, exposing the solenoid cable and emergency cable. Take a small spring that has light tension and hook one side to where the emergency cable is attached, and then hook the other side to the cardboard backing of the insulation. Basically you are pulling the plunger assembly to the up position to hold the gas door shut. I've had this fix for a year now and it works great. I used a carb spring that I had in the garage so my fix was free, but you can buy a $1 spring at the hardware store.
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Root cause is defective spring within factory cable/plunger assembly. This is NOT a band aide but a very permanent and proven solution. I agree with you on band aide fixes, as I don't like to do those. If you have the $$ for the part vs paying a couple of $$ for this solution, more power to ya.
Oh and I do have a spare new in package factory cable assembly thats been laying around on my parts shelf if you are interested in one. It came in after I came up with my solution and never got around to returning it. I give you a deal on it
Oh and I do have a spare new in package factory cable assembly thats been laying around on my parts shelf if you are interested in one. It came in after I came up with my solution and never got around to returning it. I give you a deal on it
#14
Team Owner
Root cause is defective spring within factory cable/plunger assembly. This is NOT a band aide but a very permanent and proven solution. I agree with you on band aide fixes, as I don't like to do those. If you have the $$ for the part vs paying a couple of $$ for this solution, more power to ya.
Oh and I do have a spare new in package factory cable assembly thats been laying around on my parts shelf if you are interested in one. It came in after I came up with my solution and never got around to returning it. I give you a deal on it
Oh and I do have a spare new in package factory cable assembly thats been laying around on my parts shelf if you are interested in one. It came in after I came up with my solution and never got around to returning it. I give you a deal on it
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
The fix that I have will last the life of the car and was meant to save CF members some coin if they were out of warranty.
#16
Team Owner
If you're still under warranty, then by all means, have it replaced. This occurrence is more common than one would expect, and I suspect if yours failed it may fail again.
The fix that I have will last the life of the car and was meant to save CF members some coin if they were out of warranty.
The fix that I have will last the life of the car and was meant to save CF members some coin if they were out of warranty.
#17
6th Gear
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Scotch Grove IA
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I liked your fix so I tried it, however, the plunger still will not return quite far enough. If I hook it with my finger and pull hard, I can get another 1/8" which would catch the door latch. Any other ideas??
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Try spaying some WD40 at the plunger. Also insure that the emergency cable release isn't binding up.
#19
Team Owner
If you're still under warranty, then by all means, have it replaced. This occurrence is more common than one would expect, and I suspect if yours failed it may fail again.
The fix that I have will last the life of the car and was meant to save CF members some coin if they were out of warranty.
The fix that I have will last the life of the car and was meant to save CF members some coin if they were out of warranty.
#20
Burning Brakes
Anyone know how to get to this on a convertable? Failure occured on mine this morning on the way into a meeting.
I have the bonnet up after releasing the vert top. Pulling away the carpet liner reveals a plastic panel. The plunger and cable assy must be behind it. Looks like I need to remove the rear fender for access.
I have the bonnet up after releasing the vert top. Pulling away the carpet liner reveals a plastic panel. The plunger and cable assy must be behind it. Looks like I need to remove the rear fender for access.