Ahmer

Ok i got this problem too!

Knob Jockey

Is your problem heat related also?

For a little easier test than was posted, go to an electronics store (maybe even Radio Shack) and buy some 'freeze spray'. This is a common 'tool' in the electronics repair biz.

After the lights have failed, spray some on the mini-relay and see if it comes back to life.

If that doesn't help, try spraying the fuse box in sections and you might be able to narrow it down.

In my experience a solid state relay is more prone to failure than a punch-block connection. But, who knows, maybe GM had a bad run of theses boxes/parts.

Ahmer

Ok, so this morning I went out and presto lights worked. I played for it for a while to get what the "normal" function is of these things. 2 Clicks. When You manually select the side lights a single click and then further on to get the low beam headlights ANOTHER click.

Yesterday when mine failed I heard only a single click. I even quickly tested out whether is was just the relay by swapping out my rear defroster (low risk) mini relay with my low beam one last night and lights did not work nor did I have a 2nd click. This morning, however, 2 clicks when on manual mode and no problems....

It might be the connections below the relay. Anyway it seems to be running for now. I dont know if disconnecting the battery would do any success but I also have that as a variable now as I did it yesterday and NO lights...

We will see tonight what happens. BTW my lights DID turn on automatically (it was still dark this morning, so that rules out the light sensor)

Suggestions? One person on here said to take it to the dealer and have them swap out the fuse box. My only question with that is this is an intermittent problem, how will they believe me???

Ahmer

Found another post that mentioned that it was the cables between the battery and the fuse box AND also the fuse box...

Ahmer

UPDATE: Aparently there is a loose contact point just under the fuse box where the relay attaches for the c6 that can come loose under mini relay 47. I found out that by taking apart the fuse box, one can actually fix this themselves...

I will attempt to take this fuse box apart today, wish me luck...

Is this going to be a difficult job???

C6ToGo

Headlamps Malfunction-Low Beam

1.Ignition OFF, disconnect the low beam relay.

2.Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp does not illuminate between the control circuit terminal M3 and ground.
-If the test lamp illuminates, test the control circuit for a short to voltage.

3.Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal K3 and ground.
-If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the B+ circuit fuse is open, test the control circuit terminal M3 for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, test or replace the low beam relay.

4.Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal K2 and ground.
-If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for an open/high resistance.

5.Disconnect the harness connector at the inoperative low beam headlamp.

6.Test for less than 1.0 ohm of resistance between the inoperative low beam headlamp ground circuit terminal B and ground.
-If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

7.Connect the harness connector at the inoperative low beam headlamp.

8.Connect a 40A fused jumper wire between the B+ circuit terminal K2 and the control circuit terminal M3. Verify the low beam headlamps are activated.
-If the low beam headlamps do not activate, test the control circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, test or replace the inoperative low beam headlamp.

9.Connect a test lamp between the B+ circuit terminal K3 and the control circuit terminal M2.

10.Command the low beam headlamps ON and OFF with the headlamp switch. The test lamp should turn ON and OFF when changing between the commanded states.
-If the test lamp is always ON, test the control circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.

-If the test lamp is always OFF, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.

11.If all circuits test normal, test or replace the low beam relay.

cclive

I like the way we have to "command the headlights on with the headlamp switch"...rather than just "turn on the headlights"....funny...we are driving a computer now...one that happens to have an engine...

Ahmer

Ok, lights off AGAIN. It worked all day no problems until I finally got home, check the lights again and no 2nd click. I kept switching the lights on and off just to see if they go away and "poof" finally the really won't even kick on anymore. No more 2nd click sound in the engine bay. I even took the harness off to visualize what was going on under there and still no luck (everything looks fine, no bent connectors)... I guess stealership tomorrow unless if someone has any better ideas???

torquetube

Internally, the fusebox is a multi-layer punchdown block. Terminals on the bottom are wired to terminals on top by a maze of bare copper wires routed around a plastic grid. The layers are held together by the swaged grommets on the screws and plastic rivets on the edges, all of which have to be drilled out. You cannot reach the inner layers without disconnecting all the wires on the outer layer.

Check for continuity between pin F-12 of connector C3 (where the purple-capped harness plugs in on the bottom) and the socket for pin 86 of the low-beam relay, on top. If there isn't any, you have an open circuit in the fusebox and it needs to be replaced.

Then report the problem to https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

vettman96

One wonders if there is an existing service bulletin that The General may know about already. ALLDATA may have record of a TSB.

CraigDE1

I did report the issue to NHSTA.

Ahmer

Safety Complaint filed.

Ahmer

UPDATE: Turned my car in on Monday. They replaced my alternator, drivers side exterior door button and blamed the "light" issue on a body controller module. They replaced that too...


Brought the car home. Got dark, turned on headlights... NOTHING.

Went in again on Tuesday and they called me and told me that they are now going to replaced the Fuse Box. Look out fellow C6 Owners... this is a common problem BTW

Ahmer

After turning my car in again.. I got my fuse box replaced and that fixed the problem!!! Woo hoo!

WHYASK

Is there a TSB for this at all ,,,...??? IM starting to have this and since i work nights and use my car im really not of fan of the dark lol

derekmines

Just checking in to say that I have the same issue with my '05 C6.... it's in the shop at the moment and they're taking the fusebox apart to check the contacts as mentioned in this and many other posts..... will post back with the results.

foremaw

This thread might give you some ideas on what to have checked:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...eadlights.html

CraigDE1

Option 1) Dealership wanted to replace fuse box at a cost of $800 or so. Option 2) Jumpered fuse block connector for $350. I chose $350 option and lights so far are working with no issues.

There were no issues with the relay-I think there are two, one for the low beams and one for the highbeams. BCM-no issues.

Best way I could describe the issue was a possible short after the engine heated up. Low beam would work for 15 minutes or so and stop. High beams worked and used driving lights sometimes to get home at dusk or used during a rain storm.

Maites

My lights are having the same issue. The only thing i did not see previously in the thread was - when i hit unlock on my key fob the low beams will turn on, then i start the car and they are gone. High beams work with no issues. Did "unlock" fire everyone's low beams while the car was off? I cant believe this is going to cost around $800 for a new fuse box. Bitter!!!!!!

CraigDE1

Sorry I never tried to reset with the key fob. I will tell you I have had one issue since. I was on a long trip heading back home, perhaps a 10+ hour trip. Being stuck in bumper to bumper traffic generated a lot of heat in the engine compartment. By the time I was 10 miles from my house the lights started to go off again. Otherwise no issues by doing the basic "jumpered" aspect.