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Old 06-04-2012, 11:23 PM
  #41  
Knob Jockey
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Maites-

Are you sure it isn't the high beams that are flashing with the fob activation?
Old 06-05-2012, 03:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by **** Jockey
Maites-

Are you sure it isn't the high beams that are flashing with the fob activation?
not 100% but pretty sure its the lows that activate if I manually hit unlock. I'll double check.
Old 06-06-2012, 11:52 AM
  #43  
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Does anyone have instructions for fuse block replacement? After all the phone calls etc, seems like this is the best route. Getting a brand new fuse block for $327.
Old 06-07-2012, 10:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Maites
Does anyone have instructions for fuse block replacement? After all the phone calls etc, seems like this is the best route. Getting a brand new fuse block for $327.
Quick update: I ended up calling GM yesterday to discuss this issue. They said if i went and got a diagnostic ($130) at dealer and they decided the part was defective, they would try to help me out even though i am out of warranty. The problem was that GM couldnt specifically tell me if how much they would help or not pending the diagnostic test. So i ended up taking a leap of faith and going to Ourisman Rockmont Chevy to have the test done (keep in mind if the test turned out that the part was not "defective" for any reason, I would then have to pay the 130, and buy the part then decide who would install it pending price). Turns out the part was defective, GM called the dealer and spoke to them about helping me out. What I did not know is that GM does not actually pay or cover anything, it ends up being the dealer. Both the dealer and GM called me back to let me know that they would charge me a flat fee of $200 for the out of warranty repair (typically $800). Although this is a case by case basis, I really have to thank Wayne and the Ourisman dealership for understanding and helping me out. Customer Service there has been great through the process.

At the end of the day, I would call GM if you have the issue and hopefully they can help along with the dealer. It appears GM is really trying to turn the corner on customer service. They called me multiple times to check in and also called the dealer.

Thanks again to GM and Ourismant Rockmont Chevy! Good luck to all with the problem.
Old 06-10-2012, 09:41 PM
  #45  
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Default no low beams

I have just encountered the same failure of low beams. I can not activate low beams with smart switch but can momentarily activate function when the unlock tab of the key fob is depressed. High beams and fog and running lights are all normal as is cruise and turn signals. Does this sound like the fuse box issue?
Old 06-12-2012, 12:03 PM
  #46  
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yep it does. Call GM. They will schedule the diagnostic at your dealer and hopefully help out. good luck
Old 06-15-2012, 11:08 AM
  #47  
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Default Update on no low beams

Dealer condemned the fuse box and replacement on way from Michigan should pick up later today. I do have extended warranty and am now thankful for the investment.
Old 06-15-2012, 01:47 PM
  #48  
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THIS IS A DEFECT WITH THE FUSE BOX! Dealer replaced my box and all is well! Luckily I had an extended warranty. I had a post about this 1 year ago...

I got an '05... 114000 miles.... ask me about ANY problem with this car... been through them ALL!
Old 06-30-2012, 08:46 PM
  #49  
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Default Low beam issue

Originally Posted by oklahoma
Dealer condemned the fuse box and replacement on way from Michigan should pick up later today. I do have extended warranty and am now thankful for the investment.
Gentleman don't be scared you don't need a fuse box. you will need to removed the box in the car put it on a bench. The problem is that GM bent a .030 copper wire almost 90 degrees in order to get it to where it needed to be You will have to un- swedge the 4 bolts that run through the fuse box and remove all the fuses and relays. just take a picture or make a chart and even if you don't no biggie the relays will only go in one way and the fuse amperage and location are inside of the cover or in your owners manual. The un-swedging of the captive part of the bolts is the hardest part. I'm all about things being perfect but unless t you can get your hands on 4 more of these bolts this part won't be perfect. I took a pair if vise grips and caught the edge with the first groove in the Jaws and adjusted them so it stopp before destrying everything. just work your way around and when your close they will slip through with a little force. them tips that you are unable to get up against the threads wont hurt anything. Just do it. Once you have it apart its a piece of cake. there is a copper wire .030 in diameter running from the terminal that grounds the relay for the low beams to the terminal in the corner of the C3 purple cover plug. You will see it it is the pink with a white tracer Look carefully at the .030 copper wire running between the two. it has a couple bends in that follow a groove in the plastic. just about half way between there is a bend thats almost 90 degrees. the wire is broken right there. go rip about 10 inches of wire from the garage door opener button on the wall in your garage Most of them use .030 solid copper wire or check the reversing lights they use it to. Or go to home depot and buy the right size . IT MUST BE .030-.031 Remove Carefully loosen the crimp at each of the broken wire in your fuse box so the broken wire can be removed. strip the insulation off the wire you just rip of the wall AFTER YOU ACCURATELY MEASURED IT AND FOUND IT TO BE IDENTICAL TO THE ONE GM PUT IN. and install it in place of the broken one carefully getting it seated in the groove use a small pair of needle nose to recrimp at each end and you are done except for putting it back together. Note I noticed that on the other side I could run another copper wire to the same two terminals so as to give the gound signal two paths to take, just in case it breaks I did this and I suggest you do to. To the guys who bought a new fuse box it will happen again unless they changed the design. When you get the broken wire out you can take a scribe or anything small and pointed to pluck one of the guide corners off on the plastic so the bend is not so severe. that will make it a lifetime repair. when swedging the bolts again just use a small screwdriver to get it way from the bolt. then what I did was I happened to have a cheap set of hole punches for gaskets that had a center hole that fit the bolts real close and the outer tip was tapered so I put a sockey on the head of the bolt so when you hit it with a hammer you don't break any plastic then grab a 3/16 1/4 drive deep socket slide that on the bolt and hit it again "carefully " and that for me it worked out fine and looked pretty good too. This is the final word on the mystery low beam issue. Its only about a six pack worth of work and the parts are free. Im slow as hell and once I accidentaly found the problem after 2 days of looking I was done in two hours but my garage door doesn't work anymore and my girlfriend is pissed.. If you need pictures call or email me. Tom (916) 474-5769
One more thing. I thought I would have to split the inner part of the fuse box because it appeared that the copper wire turned down into the inside of it. It doesn't do that. There is a hole for the tip of the wire to sit into but thats as far as either side of the wire goes. It's a piece of cake Its starting to get dark here in california and Im going to go melt my new nitto NTO5's If you do not have a set of these on your C6 ZO6 you are a fool. they eliminated any wheel hop and you can actually stand on the gas in first and second. It's a night and day difference from the Goodyears as long as you don't mind calling a tow truck if you get a flat

Last edited by racerxr; 06-30-2012 at 09:03 PM. Reason: mispelling and missed a step of procedure
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:49 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by racerxr
Gentleman don't be scared you don't need a fuse box.
I want to thank racerxr for this contribution. Based on his post, I went out to my parts bin and re-examined my old fusebox.

When mine failed a year ago, I took the thing apart like he did, un-swaged the four metal sleeves that hold the thing together, and noted that inside was a multi-layer punchdown block with copper wires routed around a plastic grid.

Unfortunately, the wire to the low-beam relay was not on the bottom layer, and it appeared that a lot of disassembly would be required to reach the upper layer(s), so I called it a day.

I shouldn't have. As racerxr points out - once the four sleeves are out, the backplane is held against the top half of the fusebox case by the fuses and relays themselves.

I just now unplugged everything, and sure enough, the entire backplane fell out the bottom, revealing the top layer and the broken wire of circuit 1970 (low-beam relay).

With the top layer visible, it became apparent why circuit 1970 fails all the time but the other circuits don't. It has the longest straight section of any wire in the box, with a jog in the middle probably intended for strain relief. It appears what happens is that as the fusebox heats up, the plastic grid expands faster than the copper wires do. This puts the long wire in tension, stretching the jog section tightly around the plastic guides, where eventually it fractures.

This looks to be a fairly straightforward repair. I agree that matching the wire gauge is essential, and that removing material from the guide corners would help prevent it happening again.

Last edited by torquetube; 07-03-2012 at 12:52 PM.
Old 07-12-2012, 02:19 PM
  #51  
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For the people who got new fuse boxes. Do you know the part number and where I can purchase one the cheapest? I dont really want to spend $800 at the dealer or try to repair this thing myself
Old 07-30-2012, 03:41 AM
  #52  
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i just picked one up from a part out car on here...gm parts has one for around 500...I'll be attempting to replace the box tomorrow.
Old 08-14-2012, 10:36 PM
  #53  
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any updates this guys..... Ive gone through 3 sets of low beams now and im convinced i have this issue i have on 05 as well with 80k on the clock and i dont have 500+ buck lying around ( just an E6 we dont make that much after you go through a divorce lol)

Thanks yall !
Old 08-14-2012, 11:32 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by WHYASK
any updates this guys..... Ive gone through 3 sets of low beams now and im convinced i have this issue i have on 05 as well with 80k on the clock and i dont have 500+ buck lying around ( just an E6 we dont make that much after you go through a divorce lol)

Thanks yall !
Its gonna be the fuse box....real easy to replace. Replaced mine....save some bucks by eating in the chow hall...
Old 08-14-2012, 11:36 PM
  #55  
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Hahaha I live off post lol and the fuse box ... Damn lol $$$ well let's see if I can
Get my extended warranty to cover this ! Thanks guys ! Oh just in case warranty dosnt cover it how much am I lookin at and what kind of install we talking ..? Dealer or weekend in the garage ??
Old 08-15-2012, 12:05 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by WHYASK
Hahaha I live off post lol and the fuse box ... Damn lol $$$ well let's see if I can
Get my extended warranty to cover this ! Thanks guys ! Oh just in case warranty dosnt cover it how much am I lookin at and what kind of install we talking ..? Dealer or weekend in the garage ??
10 minutes in the garage.
Old 08-15-2012, 12:08 AM
  #57  
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I do believe this is another win for the forum thanks guys ! Looks like I'll be on the hunt for a fuse box!

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:34 AM
  #58  
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Took me 10 minutes...try searching for a part out car. Gm parts warehouse has them for 500. Move back into the barracks and eat in the chow hall
Old 08-16-2012, 03:22 PM
  #59  
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Since I have an 05 with there be a problem with getting a new Fusebox,... what i mean is I can get a 2008 fuse box for 150$ right now.. is there anything i should be worried about using an 08 with the 05 car...?? thanks
Old 08-16-2012, 03:44 PM
  #60  
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As far as I can tell, the part number is the same for my 05 as it is for an 08 so I'd say you'll probably be fine..... sure someone with more knowledge than me will be along shortly.


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