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Ok, I'm confused by some comments and processes posted thus far.
The bottle clearly states do NOT apply wax on TOP of Rejex. Verbiage right from the bottle:
"Do not apply waxes or polishes over RejeX, as the abrasives found in these products will remove the RejeX protection."
Sounds to me like many may have been spinning their wheels applying the RejeX then putting wax right on top of it.
My recent detailing process was......
Wash & dry
Clay
Adams swirl & haze (Flex machine)
Adams fine machine polish (Flex machine)
Zaino Z2/Z5 applied simultaneously (by hand)
RejeX (by hand)
*The in between steps above were handled with Zaino Z6 detail spray.
I'm now getting more comments about the shine than I am the cam rocking the car back and forth at idle.
I've never had any issues applying pinnacle wax over Rejex...my rejex lasts just as long with wax on top or not.
I think those instructions are saying don't take an orbital machine and menzerna or other professional polisher and buff on top the Rejex, then it will come off.
Rejex is meant to protect the car paint against all kinds of chemicals and weather.. applying a carnuba like pinnacle on top of Rejex is not going to take it off. Besides, Autogeek has also recommened if you use wax, use it on top of the Rejex, NOT underneath.
"Do not apply waxes or polishes over RejeX, as the abrasives found in these products will remove the RejeX protection."
Sounds to me like many may have been spinning their wheels applying the RejeX then putting wax right on top of it.
...
I could be wrong but from what I've seen most true waxes do not contain significant abrasives unless they are marketed as "cleaner" or swirl remover waxes.
I think those instructions are saying don't take an orbital machine and menzerna or other professional polisher and buff on top the Rejex, then it will come off.
Originally Posted by FrankTank
Just follow the directions and I think you will be very happy with it.
If we look at this black & white Frank, the bottle makes no mention of how the wax is applied. It simply states, do not put wax over RejeX(their product). So you're not following the directions as you suggested to do so above.
In detailing, I think it's definitely a "to each their own" approach. The process I outlined gave me a an amazing shine with 50k miles on the odometer. The pics you posted look amazing so it definitely seems to be working for you doing it your way.
Originally Posted by Dale1990
I could be wrong but from what I've seen most true waxes do not contain significant abrasives unless they are marketed as "cleaner" or swirl remover waxes.
You could be right; I'm no detail expert by any means.
If we look at this black & white Frank, the bottle makes no mention of how the wax is applied. It simply states, do not put wax over RejeX(their product). So you're not following the directions as you suggested to do so above.
In detailing, I think it's definitely a "to each their own" approach. The process I outlined gave me a an amazing shine with 50k miles on the odometer. The pics you posted look amazing so it definitely seems to be working for you doing it your way.
You could be right; I'm no detail expert by any means.
To each his own So long as you are happy wiht the results. I was following the advice of Autogeek. THe Carnuba wax from pinnacle does not have any abrasives or cleaning agents, so it won;t hurt the rejex.
so BEFORE i put this on ,you can not aply wax later ?does the shine from rejix last that long that you dont need wax ? why not just wax the car ?
The Rejex is a Sealant, and will bond with the paint..it will last ALOT longer than regular wax. I am not detail expert either, just learned by reading about it.
Try it both ways and see what you like. I tend to agree, Rejex is amazing and leaves a great Shine, but more of a shine than a "wet" look so I top it off with wax to help deepen it... that is simply according to my eyes. Plenty of people just use Rejex and are happy with that too.
The Rejex is a Sealant, and will bond with the paint..it will last ALOT longer than regular wax. I am not detail expert either, just learned by reading about it.
Try it both ways and see what you like. I tend to agree, Rejex is amazing and leaves a great Shine, but more of a shine than a "wet" look so I top it off with wax to help deepen it... that is simply according to my eyes. Plenty of people just use Rejex and are happy with that too.
Either way is not going to hurt your paint.
Rejex is a Sealant.
It doesn't take out swirls etc or Prep the paint.
It's meant to go on after the paint has been made free of swirls etc.
If there is anything between Rejex and the paint, then the Rejex will only last as long as what it's covering.
As FrankTank mentioned: some like to use wax Over the Rejex for a less plastic look or deeper richer shine.
After the rejex has cured you can apply a pure carnuba or other waxes on top. It must cure and you must use a plain wax with no cleaner or abrasives in it. ie fuzion there are more I can't think off the top. You get the idea.
I'm actually doing a longevity test on my 2 daily drivers:
An Expedition and a Jetta. The Jetta got Rejex and the truck the Zaino, both in November.
Both have been out in a particularly harsh NY winter (except for a few days for the Jetta in the garage). I'll do a good wash and cleanup in the next few weeks to see how they compare.
so BEFORE i put this on ,you can not aply wax later ?does the shine from rejix last that long that you dont need wax ? why not just wax the car ?
Rejex is a sealant that goes on bare paint which has already had any needed polishing to remove swirls and scratches. Rejex will not remove or hide any imperfections. It is very durable and slick which makes it easy to clean off bird poop and bugs etc. Some detailing aficionados say the shine from a sealant is "plastic looking" and adding a couple layers of carnuba wax gives it a more traditional deep, soft etc. luster. Another great thing about Rejex and other sealants it that it's great on the whole car, i.e. glass, chrome, plastic, and it won't get chalky on rubber trim.