Driver's Door Rattle
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Driver's Door Rattle
While servicing my '08 C6, the dealer replaced the driver's side door striker under warranty and per service bulletin 09-08-64-027. Since then it seems the door rattles when closing the the interior panel is looser.
Does anyone know if the inner panel would have been removed for this procedure. I will keep checking the driver's door against the passenger side and contact the dealer later. Has anyone had a similar experience.
Just checking for some insight from the forum first.
Thanks
Does anyone know if the inner panel would have been removed for this procedure. I will keep checking the driver's door against the passenger side and contact the dealer later. Has anyone had a similar experience.
Just checking for some insight from the forum first.
Thanks
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,977
Received 2,063 Likes
on
1,371 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
Both of my door strikes had to be replaced, and the inner panel must be removed to do it.
A careless tech could have put the inner panel on incorrectly, or perhaps you are paying more attention now.
Before having them fix that problem, check to see if the rear of your door matches smoothly with the fender behind it. If the door is sticking out slightly, that looks odd but doesn't cause real problems. But if the door is "recessed" inside the level of the fender, then the leading edge of the fender tends to get sandblasted by road grit.
After the strike replacement, both my doors were sticking out slightly. Tech readjusted them on next trip and they look perfect. No sandblast on the fender edge yet in about 8k miles.
A careless tech could have put the inner panel on incorrectly, or perhaps you are paying more attention now.
Before having them fix that problem, check to see if the rear of your door matches smoothly with the fender behind it. If the door is sticking out slightly, that looks odd but doesn't cause real problems. But if the door is "recessed" inside the level of the fender, then the leading edge of the fender tends to get sandblasted by road grit.
After the strike replacement, both my doors were sticking out slightly. Tech readjusted them on next trip and they look perfect. No sandblast on the fender edge yet in about 8k miles.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As a followup:
1. Dealer replaced the three year old battery.
2. Replaced the oil pan gasket, realigned the front, new oil and filter.
3. Installed new front latches and hardware, adjusted the rear latch,
and lubed the weatherstrip. So far so good, no roof pops.
4. Dealer noticed slight door rattle ( I hadn't) and replaced driver side
door striker.
All the above under warranty and provided a loaner car.
Dealer did call and say they would realign rear for $40.
Dealer: Superior Chevrolet, Merriam, KS.
Very pleased with their service.
1. Dealer replaced the three year old battery.
2. Replaced the oil pan gasket, realigned the front, new oil and filter.
3. Installed new front latches and hardware, adjusted the rear latch,
and lubed the weatherstrip. So far so good, no roof pops.
4. Dealer noticed slight door rattle ( I hadn't) and replaced driver side
door striker.
All the above under warranty and provided a loaner car.
Dealer did call and say they would realign rear for $40.
Dealer: Superior Chevrolet, Merriam, KS.
Very pleased with their service.
#4
Race Director
What could go wrong with the door striker? It's just a "U" shaped piece of metal. The striker on my pass side door needs adjusting. It bumps the latch a little low before engaging and locking in and makes the door hard to open some time. What I'm needing to know is if the striker can be adjusted up and down by maybe loosening some bolts?
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What could go wrong with the door striker? It's just a "U" shaped piece of metal. The striker on my pass side door needs adjusting. It bumps the latch a little low before engaging and locking in and makes the door hard to open some time. What I'm needing to know is if the striker can be adjusted up and down by maybe loosening some bolts?
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
Posts: 23,977
Received 2,063 Likes
on
1,371 Posts
St. Jude Donor '13
What could go wrong with the door striker? It's just a "U" shaped piece of metal. The striker on my pass side door needs adjusting. It bumps the latch a little low before engaging and locking in and makes the door hard to open some time. What I'm needing to know is if the striker can be adjusted up and down by maybe loosening some bolts?
#7
Pro
Mine was pretty bad on the driver's side and less on the passenger's. Dealer replaced both in warranty. The striker-pin itself is like a big rivet that is pressed in the mounting plate, and starts developping some play and in the end gets loose.
My driver's side starts making the noise again, but by far not as bad. Thinking about taking them out next winter and see if a few tack-welds on the back (out of sight) will keep it is place.
Sonny
The following users liked this post:
sam-garcia (11-11-2022)
#9
As a followup:
1. Dealer replaced the three year old battery.
2. Replaced the oil pan gasket, realigned the front, new oil and filter.
3. Installed new front latches and hardware, adjusted the rear latch,
and lubed the weatherstrip. So far so good, no roof pops.
4. Dealer noticed slight door rattle ( I hadn't) and replaced driver side
door striker.
All the above under warranty and provided a loaner car.
Dealer did call and say they would realign rear for $40.
Dealer: Superior Chevrolet, Merriam, KS.
Very pleased with their service.
1. Dealer replaced the three year old battery.
2. Replaced the oil pan gasket, realigned the front, new oil and filter.
3. Installed new front latches and hardware, adjusted the rear latch,
and lubed the weatherstrip. So far so good, no roof pops.
4. Dealer noticed slight door rattle ( I hadn't) and replaced driver side
door striker.
All the above under warranty and provided a loaner car.
Dealer did call and say they would realign rear for $40.
Dealer: Superior Chevrolet, Merriam, KS.
Very pleased with their service.
I am glad it went well at the dealership. Happy Motoring.
Brent
GM Customer Service
#10
Instructor
Did anyone ever answer this? I recently noticed a slight rattle. Striker does not seem loose at all. Took off passenger door panel and do not see anything loose. Took a peak behind the door latch and nothing obvious that might be loose or rattling... 2013 grand sport...
#11
Safety Car
I had a buzzing sound in my 2009 Z06. While driving I would press on different locations on the door panel. For my rattle the sound stopped when I pressed on the upper mid range speaker screen.
I removed the door panel and tightened the nuts. No more rattle.
BTW there is a simple trick to easily re-install the door panels.
I removed the door panel and tightened the nuts. No more rattle.
BTW there is a simple trick to easily re-install the door panels.
#12
Instructor
I had a buzzing sound in my 2009 Z06. While driving I would press on different locations on the door panel. For my rattle the sound stopped when I pressed on the upper mid range speaker screen.
I removed the door panel and tightened the nuts. No more rattle.
BTW there is a simple trick to easily re-install the door panels.
I removed the door panel and tightened the nuts. No more rattle.
BTW there is a simple trick to easily re-install the door panels.
#13
Safety Car
Thanks, what’s the simple trick to reinstall the panel?
Loop a wire around each door panel hanger, engage the push pins partially, pull the wire loops up to engage the hangers, remove the wire, and engage fully the push pins.
If you happened to break and door pins they are available here: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/
Last edited by Keppler; 11-12-2022 at 07:42 PM.
The following users liked this post:
sam-garcia (11-15-2022)
#14
Instructor
The door panel hangers on the top are difficult to engage.
Loop a wire around each door panel hanger, engage the push pins partially, pull the wire loops up to engage the hangers, remove the wire, and engage fully the push pins.
If you happened to break and door pins they are available here: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/
Loop a wire around each door panel hanger, engage the push pins partially, pull the wire loops up to engage the hangers, remove the wire, and engage fully the push pins.
If you happened to break and door pins they are available here: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/