upslayer

What is (are)the best mods in terms of HP per $ without forced induction and nitrous? Also specific brand names and part nomenclature. Thanks in advance, new owner who just gave up prize 05 Yellow Screamin Eagle Yellow Electraglide for low miles yellow C6 and loving it!

1 C6 2NV

All of this will get one hell of a WOW factor

ARH LTs w/3" ORY pipe and ZO6 axle backs
FAST 102 LSX-R intake (stock, unported)
Nick Williams 102mm electronic throttle (yes, the big one)
MAF delete with 4.25 straight tube (no inlet restriction at all)
Calloway Honker CAI
PowerBond underdrive pulley
Patrick G custom 234/242 .602/.605" 112LSA +4 advance cam ground with EPS lobes
Patrick G custom speed density tune
Yella Terra Ultra Lite 1.7 ratio rockers
Patriot Extreme dual valve springs with Ti retainers
Manton 11/32" Pushrods

Once all thats done and tuned correctly, then youll need a GOOD clutch

davidtcpa

That is an expensive list!!! Better off getting a blower!

C7Joy

That's an intersting trade!

Actually I am listening for answers to your question also!

designerRob

Gotta be a cam. Lots of info on the forum.

Xedes

Why is it that when people say "cams", they really mean cams and headers? How many people run a cam only setup? What HP can be expected from a cam only+ tune? (Off topic a little but worth clarification)

MARSC6

Best mod for HP per $ is forced induction.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

The terminology "cam only" is used and understood by those in the automotive community to refer to an engine which has had one internal component change, namely the cam.

Headers and other bolt ons are not internal engine modifications.

The answer to your second question could have a wide range, since many "cam only" cars have a variety of bolt on external engine modifications.

steve burns

get a z06

designerRob

Very helpful advice.

designerRob

What are you talking about? It's not necessary to change your exhaust to run a different cam. Would it help, sure. But it's not necessary........If I was going to all the work to dig into my engine and tune I'd definitely improve the exhaust system at the same time.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

That's true for a very large majority of people.

If you are going to go to that kind of trouble, you aren't going to run the stock tune, or run the stock exhaust manifolds. And you probably aren't going to run the stock air box either.

That said though, there is at least one Katech Z06 in here running the stock exhaust manifolds. I believe it belongs to forum member OnPoint if I remember correctly.

With the Katech Torquer cam and stock Z06 manifolds, he does give up some power vs were he running long tube headers. But his car will still pass emissions. I don't know what heads he has on the car.

But to your point, very few people would do a "cam only" car in the strictest sense of the term "cam only".

The majority of people going to that kind of trouble, either already have bolt ons such as headers, etc., or will be adding them during the cam install.

JPN7075U

I guess I don't get making a 12 second car faster. A stock C6 is stupid fast on the street with the pedal down as is. You could die or land your *** in jail in a matter of seconds with a stocker. How can you even use the extra hp on the street? I use to own a ZX14 that was a 9 second ride. People on the Kawasaki forums were trying to get more out of those. Has anyone ever tried even a 12 second quarter mile in the city?

1 C6 2NV

Well said Sir. That list is my "Cam only" build

cthusker

Mardis Gras

Having had seperate corvettes with 1) head and cam, 2) maggie, 3) progharger, 4) now TVS 2300......probably the best bang would be FI tuned very safely at low boost.

Many flavors of the month....you decide.

Daekwan06

1) Agreed best HP mod per $ is forced induction.

2) HP mods after pretty much the same all across the board, all vehicles, all engines. Cams, headers, intake, exhaust, custom map/tune make the biggest difference.

brooklync5

All he means is that most People do headers and cam as a package at the same time. He wasn't saying that you can't do one at a time.

taken19

I'm not sure that FI is truly the best bang for the buck. You can get a setup on sale for $6599 installed and tuned. I have read ~150 rwph gain for this (I know you can get more, but we are speaking basics). I have spent the past 3 months building my '05 Z51 and put down an SAE corrected 474/442. That's about +140 rwhp and maybe +100 rwtq. Total cost to me so far? $3900 plus the cost of a dyno tune. This is with LT headers, something a SC won't give you. These can run you anywhere from $1000-1500 alone for quality LT headers.

Performance upgrades to my motor include CNC'd stock heads, springs, pushrods, rocker arm trunion upgrade, 11.4 CR, katech timing chain, LG headers, Stage 2 ported intake manifold and TB, ARP everything, UD pulley and 230/234 114 +2 cam. Plenty driveable and mean as hell when you get on the throttle.

One could argue that a NA build is more reliable than FI as well. In addition, do a search and some will tell you that 500 NA Hp will outrun 500 FI Hp due to engine dynamics. I did a lot of research on this (months and months) before pulling the trigger and ended up going NA. Not so much for price but for reliability and the journey of building myself. Both of my buddies have or will have FI motors and I wanted to try something different. One has an '08 Calloway LS3 with 580 flywheel Hp and I plan on finding an empty stretch or road to compare the two cars. I'm curious if the FI vs NA Hp rumors are true...

Not trying to start a Hp war, just throwing in my experiences. I do agree that FI Hp is easier get if you don't do the install yourself.

Sean

Jim Palomino

please explain FI HP & NA Hp