Bend-Pak MD-6XP Scissor Lift Revisit
#1
Bend-Pak MD-6XP Scissor Lift Revisit
I've been doing alot of research on this lift. Alot of AWESOME posts a few years back. Alot of C5 owners.
Is anyone using this on a C6? I have a stock C6 Coupe and curious if I would still need to build a ramp.
By chance, does anyone know if Bendpak has a division or out-sourced companies that would unload from truck, and set up?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Is anyone using this on a C6? I have a stock C6 Coupe and curious if I would still need to build a ramp.
By chance, does anyone know if Bendpak has a division or out-sourced companies that would unload from truck, and set up?
Thanks in advance everyone!
#2
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I've been doing alot of research on this lift. Alot of AWESOME posts a few years back. Alot of C5 owners.
Is anyone using this on a C6? I have a stock C6 Coupe and curious if I would still need to build a ramp.
By chance, does anyone know if Bendpak has a division or out-sourced companies that would unload from truck, and set up?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Is anyone using this on a C6? I have a stock C6 Coupe and curious if I would still need to build a ramp.
By chance, does anyone know if Bendpak has a division or out-sourced companies that would unload from truck, and set up?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Some people have recessed their concrete floors so they didn't have to use boards.
There isn't much to setup the lift. Hook up the hydraulics, pour in some oil, plug in the motor and push the button to lift. The big issue is getting it off the truck which is 4 ft high. Depending on manufacturer the lift is going to weigh right around 1300 lbs as it sits on the pallet. I picked my lift up at the trucking company dock. I hired a roll back wrecker to get it. The roll back bed was the height of the dock and the dock guys just used a fork lift to shove it onto the truck. Once we got it to my house the roll back driver tilted the bed down and we shoved the lift down until the pallet hit the floor of the garage. Then he pulled the rollback forward which caused the pallet to slide off the bed. Then he used the tilt bed to shove the pallet the rest of the way into the garage.
After that the next hard thing was getting the main body of the lift off the pallet. I used a friends engine lift to raise one end and basically tore the pallet apart under it and lowered that end to the floor and repeated the same thing at the other end. This all happened in Feb when the outside temp was 10 degrees and the lift was in my non heated garage.
Bill
#3
I have the Eagle lift and not the Bendpak but they are quite similar in construction with about the same minimum height. To be able to use either lift you will need to get the car higher when you drive on. You might be able to drive over the lift without doing that but the clearance would be insufficient to move the lift arms with your hands. I use 8 2x12x12s stacked two high and two wide on each side of the lift to get the car high enough so I can get my hand underneath to move the lift arms, install the lifting pucks and place the pads on the lift arms.
My concern is that I have an epoxy finish floor and it gets slippery. Trying to drive up on ramps - well it doesn't work. I was concerned the boards would slip. I suppose I could bust out the old hammer drill and drive them in the concrete.
Some people have recessed their concrete floors so they didn't have to use boards.
Would love to do this. I actually saved that thread. That may be outside the budget, but man that is a great idea. Think the 2x12's will work for now!
There isn't much to setup the lift. Hook up the hydraulics, pour in some oil, plug in the motor and push the button to lift. The big issue is getting it off the truck which is 4 ft high. Depending on manufacturer the lift is going to weigh right around 1300 lbs as it sits on the pallet. I picked my lift up at the trucking company dock. I hired a roll back wrecker to get it. The roll back bed was the height of the dock and the dock guys just used a fork lift to shove it onto the truck. Once we got it to my house the roll back driver tilted the bed down and we shoved the lift down until the pallet hit the floor of the garage. Then he pulled the rollback forward which caused the pallet to slide off the bed. Then he used the tilt bed to shove the pallet the rest of the way into the garage.
After that the next hard thing was getting the main body of the lift off the pallet. I used a friends engine lift to raise one end and basically tore the pallet apart under it and lowered that end to the floor and repeated the same thing at the other end. This all happened in Feb when the outside temp was 10 degrees and the lift was in my non heated garage.
Well I don't miss those cold February and wither months! I see how you could make that work how you did. I appreciate it so much. Gonna have to see what kind of resources I can find in FL to help me hook this up - that was the hardest part - getting it off the truck and getting it in place..
Bill
My concern is that I have an epoxy finish floor and it gets slippery. Trying to drive up on ramps - well it doesn't work. I was concerned the boards would slip. I suppose I could bust out the old hammer drill and drive them in the concrete.
Some people have recessed their concrete floors so they didn't have to use boards.
Would love to do this. I actually saved that thread. That may be outside the budget, but man that is a great idea. Think the 2x12's will work for now!
There isn't much to setup the lift. Hook up the hydraulics, pour in some oil, plug in the motor and push the button to lift. The big issue is getting it off the truck which is 4 ft high. Depending on manufacturer the lift is going to weigh right around 1300 lbs as it sits on the pallet. I picked my lift up at the trucking company dock. I hired a roll back wrecker to get it. The roll back bed was the height of the dock and the dock guys just used a fork lift to shove it onto the truck. Once we got it to my house the roll back driver tilted the bed down and we shoved the lift down until the pallet hit the floor of the garage. Then he pulled the rollback forward which caused the pallet to slide off the bed. Then he used the tilt bed to shove the pallet the rest of the way into the garage.
After that the next hard thing was getting the main body of the lift off the pallet. I used a friends engine lift to raise one end and basically tore the pallet apart under it and lowered that end to the floor and repeated the same thing at the other end. This all happened in Feb when the outside temp was 10 degrees and the lift was in my non heated garage.
Well I don't miss those cold February and wither months! I see how you could make that work how you did. I appreciate it so much. Gonna have to see what kind of resources I can find in FL to help me hook this up - that was the hardest part - getting it off the truck and getting it in place..
Bill
#4
Instructor
Wouldnt the 7XP be a better choice. The 6XP looks like an enlarged version of a ATV jack. Also I wonder about access under the car with 6XP. Also the 7XP looks like it would be easier to drive up on. Interested in you take....
Jim
Jim
#5
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One thing I did was stagger the boards at the end I drive up on them. That way I am only hitting one level at a time. I did screw the boards together and used some 2x4s to make a frame between them that fits around the lift and keeps the boards from slipping. Almost any scissors lift will keep you from working on the center of the car but I am able to use mine do to fluid changes front and rear, suspension work, brake work and a bunch of other things. Lift is movable so if I need to move it I can use the pump stand to lever one end up and move it around with the stand wheels and the two lift wheels in the rear.
Bill
Bill
#6
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Eagle has one like the 7XP and I considered it as well but went with one similar to the 6XP. There is a huge bump in cost for not much extra benefit. I purchased my lift 7.5 years ago and have never missed not having the ability to work in the center of the car. If you do a lot of work in the center of the car it may be worth the money but there are cheaper and maybe better ways to solve that problem. MaxJax is one of those ways.
If I was making the purchase again I would seriously consider the MaxJax since one of the posts can be moved out of the way when you aren't using the lift. At the time I chose the scissors lift since I could park over it with nothing sticking out to either side thus it doesn't block the garage like all 4 post lifts and most 2 post lifts do.
Bill
#7
Well you guys gave me alot to think about. I'd better look at the MaxJax too. My goals are for detailing, wheels, and brakes. Not a mechanic but I can already see myself swapping out wheels/tires etc and cleaning under it.
I lay on my back to clean the underside of my Tahoe. Too old for that! and I know with my Vette I will want it really clean, hence the lift
I was concerned with a 2 post or 4 post system about not having enough room in my garage..
I lay on my back to clean the underside of my Tahoe. Too old for that! and I know with my Vette I will want it really clean, hence the lift
I was concerned with a 2 post or 4 post system about not having enough room in my garage..
#8
Well the MaxJax looks pretty good. They have a few videos. Looks like once you drill holes for it, it's pretty easy to store and use. And you wouldnt need ramps!
Decisions - decisions.. I was initially sold on that Scissor Bendpak cause of all the older posts - and I still like it. The MaxJax seems to be in the same price range and a little more mobile - if needed.
Anyone else have a MaxJax - not trying to hijack my own thread, or am I?
Decisions - decisions.. I was initially sold on that Scissor Bendpak cause of all the older posts - and I still like it. The MaxJax seems to be in the same price range and a little more mobile - if needed.
Anyone else have a MaxJax - not trying to hijack my own thread, or am I?
#9
Instructor
Bill
I will check out the MaxJax, thanks. And your right, how often will I need to work directly underneath my Vette? Appreciate the heads up about driving over vs driving on....I didnt catch that part earlier, and I also understand the clearnance issues now....Thanks
Jim
I will check out the MaxJax, thanks. And your right, how often will I need to work directly underneath my Vette? Appreciate the heads up about driving over vs driving on....I didnt catch that part earlier, and I also understand the clearnance issues now....Thanks
Jim
#10
Bill
I will check out the MaxJax, thanks. And your right, how often will I need to work directly underneath my Vette? Appreciate the heads up about driving over vs driving on....I didnt catch that part earlier, and I also understand the clearnance issues now....Thanks
Jim
I will check out the MaxJax, thanks. And your right, how often will I need to work directly underneath my Vette? Appreciate the heads up about driving over vs driving on....I didnt catch that part earlier, and I also understand the clearnance issues now....Thanks
Jim
#11
If I was making the purchase again I would seriously consider the MaxJax since one of the posts can be moved out of the way when you aren't using the lift. At the time I chose the scissors lift since I could park over it with nothing sticking out to either side thus it doesn't block the garage like all 4 post lifts and most 2 post lifts do.
Thanks again Bill. I think this is my lift!
Bill[/QUOTE]
Thanks again Bill. I think this is my lift!
Bill[/QUOTE]
#12
Well I bought the MaxJax! Did a lot of thinking about it and I called MaxJax and talked to them for quite awhile - very helpful folks.
For a C6, does anyone know the best distance for the columns? MaxJax things 110 is plenty but I believe 82 inches is the overall on the C6 and want to be able to open the door!
ANy input is always appreciated!
For a C6, does anyone know the best distance for the columns? MaxJax things 110 is plenty but I believe 82 inches is the overall on the C6 and want to be able to open the door!
ANy input is always appreciated!
#13
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Very interested in your experience with your purchase. I currently have the MD-6Xp and it serves me well. I use it like most folks and have 2x12's on each side to give me the clearence to drive over the lift. No problems in the 4 years I have had it.
#14
I will update the thread when I get it all. Show the install and alot of pics. I was on the MD6XP band wagon. Almost ordered.
Bill in the above post told us about maxjax and after some research and virtually the same price it seemed to click well with me.
I want to learn how to do basic things like brakes and maybe exhaust. Not to mention I am a detail freak and I would lift it just to clean the back side of the wheels and be able to clean undercarriage.
They say OCD is bad but I disagree. At least when it comes to cars!
Bill in the above post told us about maxjax and after some research and virtually the same price it seemed to click well with me.
I want to learn how to do basic things like brakes and maybe exhaust. Not to mention I am a detail freak and I would lift it just to clean the back side of the wheels and be able to clean undercarriage.
They say OCD is bad but I disagree. At least when it comes to cars!