BEZ06

I believe they're actually PCV lines, so no oil flows through them and you won't make a mess when you disconnect them.

Although he said how to do it in his post, it was rather esoteric and not easy to identify as instructions:


Butt.....it's that easy!!!

If you have the dry sump tank, there are actually 2 lines to remove to access the filter door, and I remove both of them and push them out of the way. It takes about 5 seconds to remove them both, and about 1 second to push them back on when you're done.

You don't need any tools - just slide the tab to the side and pull the tube off the oil tank. To reinstall, just push it on. Open up your hood and you'll see that it's perfectly obvious how to do it. They're plastic tubes, so you can push them out of the way to access the filter door.

To open the filter door, just flip up those 3 metal loop thingies, then put your fingers on the "ledge" on the top of the door and pull it out/forward, then you can pull the door up slightly to release the "hook" thingies that hold the bottom of the door in place, and remove the door. Then you can just pull the filter out.

Replace the filter, hook the "hook" thingies on the door on the bottom of the opening, push the top of the door back into place, push the metal loop thingies down to hold the door closed, and you're done.

It shouldn't take more than a minute to have the filter out, and another minute to replace it, reinstall and latch the door closed, and a second or two to push the tubing back onto the oil tank - very simple!!!

Edited: I just went out and tried it on my ZR1. I didn't even have to remove the PCV tubes. With them in place I could easily unlatch the door and remove it, and the filter slid out and back in under the tubes while they were still attached to the dry sump tank.

Bob

BEZ06

Here are some quick pics from my iPhone, with a flashlight for illumination. They are of a car with a dry sump tank, which all have the battery in the cargo compartment. If you have the battery in the engine compartment it is forward enough to give you room to access the filter door.

Below is the door, and you can see the 3 metal loops/clips that hold the door closed - flip them up to release the top of the door for removal, flip them down to hold the door closed. You can see the tubing is still attached to the dry sump tank and there's plenty of room to remove/replace the filter:




Below is the same area with the door removed, and you can see the end of the white filter:



if you do need to remove the tubes, here are 2 pics. The first is with the tubes attached, and the 2nd is about 2 seconds later after I removed them - no tools needed:







And below is the door. You can see it comes completely off the opening. On the bottom of the door (right side in the picture) you can see the "hooks" that go over the bottom of the opening and hold the bottom of the door in place. When removing/replacing, I can only open the top of the door about an inch, then I have to pull it up to release those "hooks" and slide it to the side so I can then pull it completely out of the way:




So.....it's a very simple procedure to open the door and replace the filter!!!

Bob

Garibaldi

Thx, Bob. You answered all my questions. I appreciate it.

GP

Gering

Make sure to use a carbon impregnated cabin filter.

weathermaker

The filter track bends up a little toward the windshield. The GM filter is very flexible to get it in and out. I bought an aftermarket filter at Autozone, it was very stiff and didn't bend. A lot tougher to get in without it folding up.

Gearhead Jim

Yes, you want to help the new filter bend a little as it slides into the holder. Be gentle.

cclive

And here's a fun thread that I did about exactly that:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...r-yes-duh.html