vetteflip

I've seen a number of posts with people who have installed different solutions (Blockit, Raammat, Dynamat, CorvetteMods kit, EE Plate, etc).

Since there are multiple options and varying opinions about how to do this, I thought it'd be helpful to hear about what worked well, and what people looking to do this mod should consider when choosing a solution.

So, the questions are for people who have installed aftermarket insulation to combat heat and noise:

• What kit did you use?
• Did the kit do what you wanted it to do? Did it do it well?
• What pitfalls were there in the installation?
• What installation tips can you provide (i.e., buy extra foil tape, spray extra adhesive before laying the foam down, etc)?
• Side effects of the installation (i.e., smells, sounds, etc)?
• If you could do it all over again, would you use this kit again?

Thanks in advance for all of your input!

mickeykelley

I used the one that was a pre cut corvette kit which was just the silver foam insulation stuff. It went pretty smooth. However, I only got the front done then side tracked now for 2 years. It did help with the tunnel heat but not enough in the console. Sound was helped some, but most of the sound to me is from the rear drum echo. For the back, I did buy some of that Fatmat to put down first, then the insulation stuff. If that makes a difference, I will probably go back and pull the front out and redo it it too. However, changing the tires from the run craps to the PS2 made a huge difference in noise. No big secrets as I remember, except to take your time, especially undoing the electrical connector for the seats.

FloydSummerOf68

Several months later Peal and Seal is still going great for me in reducing outside noise.

If you have a very loud exhaust, nothing will really help that though. My exhaust is obnoxious, but the peal and seal definitely helped.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ust-drone.html

WAwatchnut

Follow best practices from people who have been doing it a long time (car audio nuts), tailor it for the Vette, and you'll be just fine.

General sound deadening

• There are two types of insulation materials - sound barriers which block the transmission of sounds, and vibration dampeners which prevent panels from vibrating, causing sound on their own
• Use dampening material on any panel that is likely to vibrate because of some other noise - cover 30-40% of the panel (more gets diminishing returns, but some people don't mind the weight and cost for that little extra effect)
• Lay a sound barrier EVERYWHERE. 100% cover, not less. If you had 100 screaming babies, and you took 99 of them out of the room, you'd still have one screaming baby.
• People will debate about Dynamat, BXT, FatMat, Damplifier, etc. Two things they have in common - they are vibration dampening materials, and the upper end versions of each is Always butyl based, and Never Asphalt based. Some of them offer a less expensive asphalt based version for reduced cost, at the trade off of lower effectivity
• Peel and Seal is Asphalt based. While it will dampen panels, it it not as effective as other material. There is also the possibility of asphalt melting at higher temps (inside a car in direct sunlight on a hot day), it doesn't happen to the majority of people, but it does happen
• bubble gum will also dampen panels... I wouldn't use that either. (sorry, I know I'll get flamed by all of the P&S guys for that one! )
• Many people use a sound barrier material behind speakers (like in the front doors). It's better than having plain metal (less reflected sound off the back of the speaker), but it's not as good (especially for midrange speakers) as sound absorbing material like acoustic foam made for that.
• For sound barriers, more is more. Materials like ensolite and the heat/sound insulation that some forum vendors sell, rely on closed cell foam to block the sound. Layering multiple layers helps. Better options use multiple materials to block, absorb, and trap the sound... And decouple the materials from each other. The more elaborate solutions are more effective, much heavier, and much, much, much more expensive.

C6 specific stuff

• All C6's have a rear trunk/hatch floor made of a rigid "plastic" - which tends to take vibrate in sympathy to external low frequency sounds... This is one big reason low pitched exhausts "drone". A vibration dampening material applied to the rear hatch area, wheel wells, and behind the seats is a must.
• Coupes are bad for noise due to the shape of the rear hatch. Think of the old outdoor ampitheaters - they have that shell shaped structure behind the stage for a reason.... to focus and blast all of the sound forward. That's exactly what the rear glass does. Combine that with the vibration of the rear floor, and you have serious trouble.
• The floor of the Vette is usually made of the same material as the rear hatch-trunk floor, but is farther from the exhaust vibration. Still a good idea to dampen, but less impact on drone.
• The lightweight body panels of the Vette will both vibrate, and transmit sound. Dampening material on the insides of the panels (especially doors) is a great idea. And even more reason to make sure you have 100% cover with your sound barrier)

I used Dynamat Xtreme to dampen panels, combined with ensolite to block external sounds, and Crazy Cowboys insulation kit for heat blocking, and some added sound blocking. I went with 100% vibration dampening coverage in the rear hatch, and 35% coverage in the doors. One of these days I'll get around to doing the floor and center tunnel.

Prior to insulating the car, you couldn't hear the passenger when the drone kicked in (SLP PowerFlo exhaust) unless they were practically shouting. Now, i can always talk to the wife in a normal tone of voice. And the stereo doesnt have to be turned up that high to hear all of the detail in the music. I havent taken any long road trips in hot weather, so I can't really comment on that.

If you're buying ensolite, Raam has it pretty inexpensively, and he can send either the self adhesive version, or just plain ensolite. Dampening material always has to be applied directly to the panel itself - so think about that before you install a sound barrier, especially If you're using any adhesive.

The aluminum tape is helpful, but the self adhesive ensolite is magical. If I were to do it again (and since I don't live in a hot climate), I'd skip the vendor style insulation kit, and for the same cost, apply 2-3 layers of ensolite.

Remember that the materials add height to any panel, and plan accordingly. Especially with the doors.

Tearing apart the car to install insulation is a pretty big job, so I'd say don't cut corners too much, and just do it right from the start.

MisterMidlifeCrisis

I did the rear of my Corvette up to just behind the seats with two layers of peel and seal, plus the former Vettenuts insulation kit. It's quieter but still not quiet, with lots of tire roar (the tires are terrible). It still also gets warm, and our luggage was medium-well done after an eight hour drive.

I haven't yet insulated the front or the doors, but what did make a big difference was putting peel and seal on the underside of the body, on the flat panels that are under the seat and footwell areas. That alone quieted the interior by at least half as much as doubly insulating the cargo compartment. I got that idea from presidentialpawn in the peel and seal thread. It works!

Gearhead Jim

We put the Blockit sounds mats in our 2009.

Easy installation- just drop 'em in. Cover with a Lloyds trunk mat and slide the small panels under the carpet behind the seats, if you wish (we did).

Easy to uninstall- just lift 'em out.

Cost- A little over $200, last I looked.

Effectiveness- Fair.

A real built-in installation can , if designed and installed properly, be much better. But also much more hassle and perhaps more money.

Our purpose was to be able to listen to music on road trips. We are not audiophiles, but the factory setup was pretty awful. We did the Blockit mats, installed a GM PAL with Kawal's cable (easy) and an Ipod so we could ditch the XM, and replaced the Goodyears with Michelins. We are satisfied now. It's not great, but satisfactory for our needs.

icanski2

One addition to ideas WAwatchnut suggested in his very informative post is to install an Elite Engineering Insulated Tunnel Plate. I just had one installed while the dealer had my torque tube out of the car and it really does eliminate most if not all the heat build up in the console. I also have a full Raammat Kit that has been sitting in my garage all summer that I am about ready to start installing along with a full audio system upgrade.

I got the tunnel plate from here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...s-on-sale.html

HOXXOH

I did the Exoticvette kit primarily for the heat. It gets hot enough in Phoenix and more was not needed. I ripped out the whole interior and filled in all the little spots the kit didn't have pre-cut with the big chunk of extra insulation that was included.

Other than being a little ****, I'm also a little old, so I probably took 8 hours over a 3 day span to get it all done.

It really solved the heat issue and I was pleasantly surprised how tight it made everything feel and sound. I now have headers, no cats, and normally open Z06 mufflers, so it's not quiet anymore.

I'd do it again and also order the pre-cut to save time and lots of frustration. I'm not a big radio/stereo listener, but that the whole kit probably weighed less than 3 pounds was good for keeping the racing weight in check.

vetteflip

I was initially sold on the EE plate. After reading so many differing opinions on the site, though, I didn't know if it actually worked. The correct answer seems to be that it eliminates tunnel heat on short trips (<=3hrs).

Does it eliminate the heat for long road trips also?

DonOH

I like the 'easy' parts. Thanks for explaining.

Don

Russell ZR1

Peal and Seal

why not just pay a roofer and have them slop some roofing tar with a mop in there too while you're at it..

Thrash

Raam BTXII & Ensolite, VetteNuts pre-cut Heatshield, MAMO pre-cut Door Quiet & Ensolite, S.D. Showdown extruded butyl rope. Have it all and is ready to install ... just waiting for an opening

Marc@Vettenuts.net

We offer Pre Cut heat deading material and a Premium layer from Ensolite. We have sold hindreds of them and it makes a huge difference in heat and noise on the interior.

More info located here. http://www.vettenuts.net/index.php?l=product_list&c=64

We have a 20% off sale going on, use INSULATION as your coupon code.

phileaglesfan

I had it on my 08 C6 but haven't felt the need to use it on my 11 GS Vert. The insulation kit does work but it'll amplify other areas of the car such as engine/front tire noise. Panels will fit tighter also.

glenB

Correct

No, but it's better than none at all.

glenB

I paid about $200 for a box from SecondSkin. Did the whole back, the front, strips in the door, both sides of the heat shield for the mufflers and spots under the hatch over the axles and I still have material left over.

I used a box knife, a really small paint roller, like 2" long, and a wooden roller, again, about 2" long, and rolled it out. I was generous in some ares to ensure coverage.

This is about 4 years ago

CO Lightfoot

A partition helps reduce noise from the hatch area. And it better-directs speaker sound. And it gives you a handy shelf.

Dead-simple to install & remove, no bolts/screws/tape, just sets securely in place. Does not interfere with storing targa top.

Got mine from exotic vette:
http://www.exoticvette.com/C6%20partition.htm

icanski2

My tunnel plate reduces heat for any length trip. At the five hour mark there was no difference in heat than the three hour mark. I don't see how there would be. Fully warmed/heated up would seem to happen within the first hour of driving barring significant changes in ambient air temps or rain.

TKO Performance

Blockit http://store.tkoperformance.com/bleadinnodes.html

AORoads

Great writeup, Joe!