branhoffer

My understanding is frame is for 4 point lifting only, to avoid twisting done with single floor jack. Manual does show center of cross member the place to lift whole front or rear end. I can do this with ramps and long low profile jack and block of wood to protect aluminium cross member. Does anyone no if it matters either way?

cclive

Twisting is not an issue with the C6 as the frame is extremely stiff. When you are lifting from the aluminum pieces, you want to use something that will not mar the surface as that can be a starting place for a crack...a piece of wood or hard rubber is fine for that.

JoesC5

GM does not recommend that you lift the car using the center of the crossmember. Their recommended lifting points are at the ends of the crossmember where the lifting points are directly below the frame rails. I made a spanner bar using 2 X 6 with 5.5" X 5.5" square pads of 1/4" plywood. The only place my spanner bar/jack contacts the frame is at the plywood pads. On my floor jack, the lifting cup is removable leaving a hole. I mounted a centered 1/2-13 hex nut, using a screw, to the bottom side of the spanner bar so the nut dropped into the jack's above mentioned hole. When I jack the car using the spanner bar, I then place my jack stands under the spanner bar at each end. If you are changing your oil from the side of the car, this approach means you don't have a jack stand located where you want your right shoulder to be.

ROC OUT

For additional information on this, you might want to try searching "Jacking Locations" on here. There have been numerous posts on this subject and some with pictures and detailed discussions on the pros and cons of jacking in different locations.

Don-Vette

Go to the bugman website. I lifted under one rocker with puck to change oil. No problem.

Bill Dearborn

You can lift at the cross member or the frame. The frame spots are made for a lift but there is no harm using a jack there. All you need to for jacking under the crossmember is a jack that spreads the load across both sides of the cross member rail from front to rear. If you look at the cross member rails you can see they are shaped like inverted Us. All you have to do is bridge across the U not across the car. Just think of the jack as a jackstand and place the jack pad in the same place you would place a jack stand. No need for fancy rubber pads or boards.

Most people use lift pucks and jack from the frame since it is hard to get a jack far enough under the car to use the cross member. I jack from the side and then use jack stands under the cross members.

In the rear you can jack in the center of the cross member and put jack stands at the ends. My jack has a 6 inch wide head so it easily bridges across the cross member.

Bill

GOLD72

I have been lifting all of the C6s in my care from the front and rear crossmembers using a pressure-treated pine lifting beam I made to spread the load. With the 01Z, I just did a single point lift in the front and rear using a 10lb plate on the jack cradle.

Wayne O

Either way is fine. At home I most often drive onto wooden board ramps and use a floor jack with a crossbeam adaptor attached to lift the front (or rear) of the car from the preferred lift points. I've got 2 adaptor beams...on the one I use for the front of the car I removed the extension arms and affixed the rubber pads to the ends of the adaptor beam frame. With 2 jacks and 2 adaptor beams it's easy to lift the entire car and then place jack stands under jacking pucks.

For a quick wheel change at the track I have a small Craftsman floor jack that slides under the side rails and I lift from the point where jacking pucks would go. Always follow safety procedures but when lifting a corner/side of the car it's especially important to be on level ground, use chock blocks and most importantly make sure the jack is secure so it can't slip-out from underneath the car.