azc62006

here is something i just found.... my suggestion is to let a professional do it... there is no way to get a tourque wrench under or in between the carriage and the pan if your going to do it right....read below:

Engines have varying specifications for the amount of torque you need for fastening oil pan bolts. You should always consult the manufacturer's recommendations as to the proper torque to use on oil pan bolts. Some engines torque all oil pan bolts identically. Others may require torquing the rear bolts differently from the front bolts. Whatever the torque specifications, there is a specific sequence for torquing the oil pan bolts.

Preparation
Begin by applying light engine oil to the undersides of the bolt heads and to the threads of the oil pan bolts. Don't use Moly oil or other high performance lubricants on the bolts as this may increase the torque requirements beyond manufacturer's recommendations. Install the oil pan gasket and set the oil pan in place. The inside of the pan should be clean and free of metal shavings or debris. Insert the oil pan bolts and finger tighten them so that the pan fits snugly against the bottom of the engine.

Tightening Pattern
Tighten the four corner bolts of the oil pan first. Use the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to half their recommended torque. Then tighten the bolts in between the corner bolts working toward the center. Check the manufacturer's specifications. Some manufacturers recommend working front to back, but that information will be included in the torque specifications. Continue tightening until all the bolts are half torqued.

Final Torque
Repeat the same pattern as before and tighten all the oil pan bolts to their full torque. Engine oil pan bolts range in torque from seven foot-pounds to 22 ft-lb or more for large engines with heavier pans and bolts. Once you've torqued the bolts and filled the engine with oil, you should run the engine for five minutes to bring it up to normal operating temperature. Turn off the engine and retorque the oil pan bolts to full torque.

so,are you stil going to do it? lol

radbluesfan

I just got back from my Chevy dealer. The car was on a lift for a new exhaust and the pan is still dry about 6 months and 3000 miles later--since they replaced the pan bolts. The service people there are the great, more than I could ever imagine. I was going to buy some Corsa Xtremes 14960 from a forum vendor. I was not going to install them myself and was thinking of where I should take the car. On a whim I called the dealer to get a quote, expecting an outrageous price. The total price of buying through them and installation was about $20 more than the forum vendor's sale price for parts alone. I had to pay sales tax but I also would have paid shipping costs if I ordered them from the vendor.
Not all dealers are bad and with the economy and competition they are very aware of the public's perception of them. These oil pan/gasket issues are covered by warranty---warranty that you have paid for in one form or another. People are always going to post about any bad experience they have but when you look at the big picture of how many vehicle services go smooth as glass it must be a very small percentage of bad experiences. Any average dealer will work on 150 or more cars a week.
Take it to the dealer. Let them diagnose and fix. Have them drive you back to work or home---or take a rental. Have them pick you up and take you back to the dealer when its done, shake their hand and go on about your day. Give the dealer a chance. It's free and if anything goes wrong you're covered for free with no hassles. Not true if you or a buddy does it or if you take it to an independent shop. They may think they know more (and maybe they do) but when something goes south good luck hashing out the liability with them.
Kinda long but my 2 cents.

Timothy Barth

I would not trust any dealer I know of to do all of that properly.I think you would have many other problems when they were through.It would have to be pouring out before I would have it fixed. What amazes me is that this car is so poorly designed that it takes a full day to fix this. No wonder I am more attracted to cars from the 60's.

Timothy Barth

It might be their problem, but if it creates more problems it can quickly become a pita. Believe me I have been through this before and eventually just got rid of the car after it spent most of its life in a dealers maintenance bay.

ocjim

jedblanks

I had this problem today. Car was sitting for 1+ weeks and drops of oil on epoxy floor. Probably wouldn't have noticed it in a regular concrete floor, but the epoxy floor just lets the oil sit there.

I got under the car and each and every oil pan bolt and part of the oil filter was wet. Nothing above the bolts was wet and the gasket didn't appear to be leaking.

The amount of oil on the pan was not as bad as some of the pics above, but the oil pan bolts were barely more than finger tight. I used a torque of about 15 ft lbs (I think the official spec is 18 ft lbs). I was able to get 1/2 turn on each bolt. As I tightened each bolt down I put bit of RTV on the flange of each bolt (required loosening them first, one at a time).

I also tightened the oil filter about 1/32 of a turn. I used a filter wrench to tighten. I installed hand tight, as I do on all my oil changes, but I guess it needs just a smidge more on the Z.

The rear oil feed line, from the dry sump tank, also had a drop on it. I tightened that bolt and the rearmost of the two horizontal facing bolts above the oil filter. It took only a paper towel or two to get the excess oil off.

Took a 140 mile trip and it appears to have done the trick. There were 4 bolts I couldn't get to, three above the magnesium cradle and one behind the oil cooler lines. I may try them later during an oil change.

I got the the rear oil pan bolts using a torque wrench and socket/extension. The two front ones were done with a box end 10mm wrench.

I can't see letting a dealer remove the oil pan and all that goes with it unless its absolutely necessary.

My suggestion would be to check the bolts for tightness every 15,000 miles or yearly. The oil pan on the Z is just a strange beast. Unlike most that I've seen. Does anyone know if its cast aluminum or is it some other material? Mine was even leaking from what I can only describe as a "freeze plug" Not much I could do about that.

Jimmy W1

The first thing you should do is to check the oil level and make sure you didn't overfill it. That could cause it to leak.

jedblanks

It's been ten months /1500 miles since I changed the oil. Don't think that's the problem on mine.

And to those that say take it to the dealer, I would only have them tear my car apart as a last resort.

blackvetterzo6

Just changed mine at dealer, why wait?

rm50

I just had mine done by the dealer on my 2010 Grand Sport. They found it leaking while doing some other work for me.

Do it while it is still in warranty is my advice

ALS 08

mine went in Thurs. will be done Mon. Gasket being replaced. I took a gamble on a neighborhood dealer. Got really worried when the service writer accepted the car & didnt know how to turn engine off.
To my surprise their titled Corvette mechanic is a car buff & considered very meticulus. Spent some time with him even strolled through lot & checked out the new Vette inventory with him & talked shop. Restored my confidence in Dealership.

TSLAVette

SRQ, if you see a red ZR1 in Sarasota, it's my old man!

Had the dreaded oil pan leak repaired a few weeks ago on my LS3. It's covered by the power train warranty so get it done! We have a GREAT Vette tech here in St Louis ... took him less than 6 hrs for complete disassembly, replacement, alignment. You definitely want a competent tech doing this job! Dry as a bone ... so far so good.

Rossi6998

I had mine done by the dealer about a month ago. They did a good job regarding the replacement of the pan gasket. The oil pan is bone dry.

Now for the bad part, the mechanic put too much oil in the engine (I figure about 1/2 to 1 quart over), and he scratched the top of my fender.

I got out the dual action polisher and I was able to remove some of the scratch, but not all of it. I felt I went as deep into the clearcoat as I should. Unfortunately, short of repainting the fender, that scratch will always be there. Luckily, it did not reach the actual paint.

Bottom line - I would not ignore the issue. IMHO, it has to be repaired.

Good luck!

Neil Baker

Also had mine done at Dealer, they did a great job!

Red Devil

Is this covered under the 3/36 or 5/100 warranty? Do most people see this issue occur when the car is fairly new or once it gets more miles on it?

Red89gt

Mine car leaking on a 2010 grand sport at 7000 miles when I went under it to do an oil change. Cleaned up with brake clean and wet again 1 month later.

ricknyc23

Just had mine done under the power train warranty.

CodyC6

Kind of sad. What has GM done in the last 7 years to improve the situation /product / assembly process to keep this from happening in the first place?

Gearhead Jim

You think GM would come up with a production fix in only 7 years??? !!!

Red89gt

Can't imagine an engineering fix costing more than all these years of warranty adjustments they are taking to their bottom line profits????
Sometimes I just don't get it, some of the old GM lives on I guess.