I go to get in my car today and the door won't open. I hear a sound like it's trying to open, the window indexes but its like the car won't let go of the door and "push it away" (this is how the door normally feels when you open it).

I tried switching the door membranes, and that didn't help. Also inside button doesn't open it either. Right now I have to use the emergency opens. Kinda frustrating though, if I didn't remember those i would have been stranded.

It's an 08 with 7600 miles on it. So kinda surprised here. Good thing I got the extended warranty

 

Sounds like the door switch, simple fix as i recall other forum members saying. Since you have warranty, just take the car in.

 

He said both inside and outside is a problem so I'd say it's not "the switch"...In fact, if the window indexes, it is most definitely NOT "the switch". My guess is either the BCM or the door latch itself.

Then again, maybe he should check the fuse

But I agree.. let warranty take care of it

 

I had this problem with the passenger side door this past summer. On hot days the front edge of the door panel was binding with the front quarter panel. Seemed as if the panel was expanding in the heat ?? Door wouldn't open. As soon as temps cooled down, door would open again.

 

What is the BCM?

 

Body Control Module...small computer.

Does this happen to the passenger side as well? Any other electrical annoyances occurring at this time?

You have a 2008 so, i say you may be experiencing car battery problems. Toss a new one in under warranty and see if that fixes it.

 

Body control module.

Tom

 

There are four components directly involved with the door opening. The outside and inside switches, the door control module and the latch module in the B pillar. I have never had the switches go bad on my car but have had the other two modules go bad. When the door module went the window wouldn't index properly and one time cycled up and down continuously until the battery cable was pulled. Neither the inside or outside door switches worked. When the latch went bad I could hear the door trying to open and sometimes it would partially open but that was it. The repairs were done quickly but it did take two trips to the dealer. One trip for diagnosis and another for the repair after the parts were delivered.

Bill

 

Some diagnostic info:

Power Door Latch System Malfunction

Circuit/System Description
When the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) receives an input from either the driver exterior door handle switch or driver interior door handle switch, it checks the Lock/Unlock status of the driver door. If the status of the driver door is Unlock, the RCDLR applies the ground for the driver power door latch.

At the same time that the RCDLR is receiving its input, the driver door module (DDM) is also receiving the same input. When the DDM receives its input from the door handle switch, it checks the window indexing status of the driver door. If the window is below the index point, it sends a serial data message to the body control module (BCM) to apply voltage for the driver power door latch. If the window is above the index point, it will first index the window, then send a serial data message to the BCM to apply voltage for the driver power door latch.

Circuit/System Testing

Door Latch Inoperative from Exterior Door Handle Switch
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the inoperative exterior door handle switch.
Test for less than 1.0 ohm of resistance between the ground circuit terminal C and ground.
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

Ignition ON, verify the appropriate Door Control Module Scan Tool Exterior Door Handle Switch parameter is INACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal D for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the appropriate door control module.

Verify the appropriate RCDLR Scan Tool Exterior Door Handle Switch parameter is INACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal A for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the RCDLR.

Install a 3-A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal D and ground terminal C. Verify the appropriate Door Control Module Scan Tool Exterior Door Handle Switch parameter is ACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal D for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the appropriate door control module.

Install a 3-A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal A and ground terminal C. Verify the RCDLR scan tool exterior door handle switch parameter is ACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal A for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the RCDLR.

If all circuits test normal, test or replace the appropriate exterior door handle switch.

Door Latch Inoperative from Interior Door Handle Switch
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the inoperative interior door handle switch.
Test for less than 1.0 ohm of resistance between the ground circuit terminal A and ground.
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

Ignition ON, verify the appropriate Door Control Module Scan Tool Interior Door Handle Switch parameter is INACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal C for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the appropriate door control module.

Verify the appropriate RCDLR Scan Tool Interior Door Handle Switch parameter is INACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal B for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the RCDLR.

Install a 3-A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal C and ground terminal A. Verify the appropriate Door Control Module Scan Tool Interior Door Handle Switch parameter is ACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal C for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the appropriate door control module.

Install a 3-A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal B and ground terminal A. Verify the RCDLR scan tool interior door handle switch parameter is ACTIVE.
⇒ If not the specified value, test the signal circuit terminal B for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the RCDLR.

If all circuits test normal, test or replace the appropriate interior door handle switch.

Door Latch Inoperative from All Door Handle Switches
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the inoperative door latch.
Connect a test lamp between latch control circuit and ground.
Ignition ON, activate the appropriate interior door handle switch. The test lamp should turn ON when activating the door handle switch.
⇒ If the test lamp is always OFF, test the latch control circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.

⇒ If the test lamp is always ON, test the latch control circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.

Connect a test lamp between the latch control circuit and latch enable control circuit.
Ignition ON, activate the appropriate interior door handle switch. The test lamp should turn ON when activating the door handle switch.
⇒ If the test lamp is always ON, test the latch enable control circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the RCDLR.

⇒ If the test lamp is always OFF, test the latch enable control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the RCDLR.

If all circuits test normal, test or replace the appropriate door latch.

 

Valleybacker,

If you're under warranty I would just take it in. Let us know how everything works out, thank you!

Evan, Chevrolet Customer Service

 

Had this problem on another brand a few years back...hot no open, cool opens. Long story short they finally replicated the problem at the dealership and found it to be the BCM.
Just sayin...

 

If the passenger side works properly you can swap the switches in 5 minutes with just a screwdriver, they're interchangeable. That will tell you if its just the switch. If it is, you can just buy a new one and replace it yourself.

 

Anybody know what the driver side door control module part # is?

 

Where is the BCM located?

 

BCM is body control module, which is the Instrument panel Fuse Block under the passenger carpet footwell.
There is a 15A dr lock fuse in that panel that you might want to check.
Also there is a 10A Drv door switch fuse as well.
There is also the DRV and PASS dr lock relays in the fuse panel as well.

Good Luck

 

Have you tried spraying the latch assembly with WD-40. It just might be sticking?

Good Luck

 

Thank you, the passenger door is fully functional, but my drivers door buttons are not responsive other than the one to open the door...they all light up and I've already checked connections and swapped buttons with another corvette owner, but no luck...I will double check the fuses tomorrow.

 

my 07 is giving the exact same problem today, now I don't know if the cold weather is affecting it due to old age

anyways, what did the dealer fix in your case?

 

My passanger door started doing same thing a few days ago.

 

Is this a total of two or three fuses? I looked at the manual and if only the driver door is an issue it looks like two fuses?