What position with Traction Control for Drag Racing???
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
What position with Traction Control for Drag Racing???
Just curious about what position the Traction Control button should be selected for the best performance at the drag strip. One opinion so far is TC off for burnout just past the water trough, then select TC on to make the quarter mile pass. After this next round of mods, I want to make a couple passes at Las Vegas Motor Speedway to be able to answer the "Hey, how fast is it?" question I get.
I have a 2010 MN6, 1LT C6 with engine, suspension and body mods that after the headers and catted x-pipe install should be 400-405 rwhp. Tires are standard size Firestone Wide Oval Run Flats @ 30 psi cold.
I have a 2010 MN6, 1LT C6 with engine, suspension and body mods that after the headers and catted x-pipe install should be 400-405 rwhp. Tires are standard size Firestone Wide Oval Run Flats @ 30 psi cold.
#2
Traction control OFF, all other nannies ON.
#3
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2011
Location: Saint Johns Florida
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
To engage the launch control system, the driver puts the traction control into competitive mode and then pushes the gas pedal to the floor. The system will hold a predetermined RPM based on which engine you have (LS3/LS7/LS9). When the driver quickly releases the clutch, the launch control modulates engine torque 100 times per second to get the best traction.
#4
Team Owner
#5
Le Mans Master
Your best bet is at least traction control off, or cutting all the nannies on drag radials. Good idea, not putting in any diff friction modifier additive, as can kill lots of the posi clutch pack lock up.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
To engage the launch control system, the driver puts the traction control into competitive mode and then pushes the gas pedal to the floor. The system will hold a predetermined RPM based on which engine you have (LS3/LS7/LS9). When the driver quickly releases the clutch, the launch control modulates engine torque 100 times per second to get the best traction.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Video of Tadge Juechter at the Bash intro explaining the system:
http://www.corvetteblogger.com/2009/...tem-Explained/
http://www.corvetteblogger.com/2009/...tem-Explained/
#10
Race Director
I wouldn't be rolling through the water box unless your running slicks,drive around with street tires and warm them up with a dry burnout,otherwise as your waiting for the light water inside the grooves of the tread drip down right on your contact patch with the track.
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Point well taken, thanks for the insight.
#12
Melting Slicks
Avoiding water with anything but slicks is kind of an antiquated idea IMO. A lot of tracks don't even have ROOM to drive around the water box. Every single car that runs down the strip at Atco for example, must drive right through the water.
A dry burnout is pretty nasty on the drivetrain of a stick car when you're doing it on a concrete pad that's covered in traction compound and rubber. I've seen more than one stock, manual-trans vette break parts doing a dry burnout on a sticky pad.
Just my $.02 but I wouldn't personally be popping the clutch with dry tires on the burnout pad.
I'm SURE someone will vehemently disagree with me, but the best method i've personally watched is either rolling through (if necessary) or going around and backing into the water (if possible, to keep the fronts dry). Turn the tires over once quickly IN the water just to coat the tire and roll forward a foot or two out of the water...THEN start your burnout. It's the smoothest and most consistent way I've seen to avoid wheel-hopping when the clutch drops.
With street tires obviously, you don't need a smoky burnout. Just a couple seconds to scrub the tires clean and dry and you're all set.
Every track has their own customs for that kind of thing....watch some other cars before making your first pass to get an idea of how that particular track operates.
A dry burnout is pretty nasty on the drivetrain of a stick car when you're doing it on a concrete pad that's covered in traction compound and rubber. I've seen more than one stock, manual-trans vette break parts doing a dry burnout on a sticky pad.
Just my $.02 but I wouldn't personally be popping the clutch with dry tires on the burnout pad.
I'm SURE someone will vehemently disagree with me, but the best method i've personally watched is either rolling through (if necessary) or going around and backing into the water (if possible, to keep the fronts dry). Turn the tires over once quickly IN the water just to coat the tire and roll forward a foot or two out of the water...THEN start your burnout. It's the smoothest and most consistent way I've seen to avoid wheel-hopping when the clutch drops.
With street tires obviously, you don't need a smoky burnout. Just a couple seconds to scrub the tires clean and dry and you're all set.
Every track has their own customs for that kind of thing....watch some other cars before making your first pass to get an idea of how that particular track operates.
Last edited by JSB LS3; 02-08-2012 at 07:18 PM.
#13
Drifting
I always back up to the water box after the first run. You pick up the VHT on the first run and then everything sticks to the tires on the return. I like to hold the button down for 5 secs and turn everything off.
#14
Le Mans Master
I hit the button once. I have control of the rear wheels and the computer does everything it can to keep my dumb azz between the rails.
#15
Melting Slicks
If you are new to drag racing, as others have said, traction control off (and/or use launch control) but leave active handling on. I've seen a few cars in the wall at the strip with this kind of power, with tracks that aren't sticky. Active handling is no guarantee you won't go sideways, but it will be a big help if needed.
#18
Le Mans Master
I hit the button once. I have control of the rear wheels and the computer does everything it can to keep my dumb azz between the rails.
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well I tested the Launch Control that comes with my 2010 & later stick shift C6, GS, Z06 & ZR1's. Half of the system that is, by that I mean I was at a friends house, half in his driveway and I said "let's see if it works". I selected Competition Mode with the button, pushed the clutch in all the way and planted the throttle all the way to the floor. RPM's went up to 4100 rpm and stabilized at that setting. So that part of it works, just didn't want to dump the clutch and take out a couple rows of roses and the neighbors camper trailer next door. I will finish doing a complete test tomorrow and report back with the results. Really glad now that I bought the 2010 C6 MN6 instead of the 2008 C6, Z51, auto that I was looking at when I bought the 2010.