Ahmer

After finlly getting sick of "squeak squeak squeak" in aprking garages at low speed. I think I am going to take on this hurdle of changing my own rear hub. I found this DIY for a C5:

http://www.c5help.com/C5_Rear_Wheel_Bearing.htm


I get the basic idea:

1. remove wheel, caliper, rotor, tie rod and both ball joints in order to access the 3 torx bolts...

My question is: Is there a safer method of removing the ball joints rather than wacking the ball joints to get them loose with hammer?????

anyone have any better ideas? Someone had mentioned on these forums to use a bottle jack to lift the housing OFF the ball joint...

Ahmer

Anyone?

speedraider

just had the passenger side rear on my wifes 07 vert done under gmpp warrantee. It had some noise that started at 35mph.

ErnieN85

thats the easy way to do it just loosen the nut a bit , hit the ball joint and it will pop loose put a jack under the control arm. take the nut off and lower the arm slowly with the jack. assemble in reverse order.

Ahmer

torx 55?

Ahmer

I have the torx 55, a torque erench, and the control arm removAl pitchfork tool.

Im slightly nervous about damaging parts on my suspension....

Any tips on remlving the control arms/ tie rod could be helpful??

Also will i need an alignment right after teplacing the hub???

Ahmer

So I have been doing more reading and it seems like most have been able to get the lower control arms with a a2x4 piece of wood, after loosening the nut about 1/3 way and banging the wood while it is laying on the fla tof the control arm...

My quesstion is how difficult is it to remove the TIE RODDD????

08 ATOMIC-Z

This is not a hard procedure to do. It is quite simple there are several DIY posts on this. The hardest thing to get over is the IDEA I CAN MESS UP MY CAR. Just take your time and it will be OK. The 55 torx is the hardest part of the procedure. I used my jack handle to help with this. Just loosen the nut a bit , hit the ball joint and it will pop loose put a jack under the control arm. take the nut off and lower the arm slowly with the jack. assemble in reverse order.

Ahmer

Ok I get the pop loose... but the jack under the lower control arm is to catch it when it falls...?

08 ATOMIC-Z

Yes and for reassembly.

Ahmer

U say jack handle for the Torx 55?? for more leverage in terms of lengthening a breaker bar?

Ahmer

I just wanted to thank EVERYONE on their input on these forums! I just successfully completed the replacement of my right rear wheel bearing ALL BY MYSELF!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!

It took 2.5 hours to do! (start to finish)

My lower ball joint started spinning and so I cut an allen wrench down and let it get "stuck" to the hub and was able to tighten down the lower nut

It was not as bad as I expected... BTW I used PB blaster on the lower arm and used the jacking technique for the hub assembly and arm fell out by itself!! I LOVE PB BLASTER... I never even had to tap it!

NO MORE SQUEALING!!!

08 ATOMIC-Z

Yes, I used half of my jack handle for more leverage.

08 ATOMIC-Z

Great Job.... I guess I should have told you the trick with the allen wrench... Sorry. Saved yourself some mod money now.....

Ahmer

Are the fronts as difficult as the rears?

Scott S

Harbor Freight sells a ball joint removal tool for $20 that works great. I had to modify it by enlarging the part that slips under the rubber boot so it would fit around the ball joint shank with a dremel tool. It is way better than wacking your suspension with a BFH.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Scott