Fuel tank sending unit question
#22
Advanced
I tried several cleaners and none worked for me. I had a slighlty different problem with my sensor. Most posts state that the circuit board becomes turnished from the sulfur in the gas and blocks sending the info to the computer. On my sensor, the brushes that make contact with the circuit board wore down to the point they did not touch the curcuit board. Either way, the fuel level sensor failed.
#23
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: nashville TN
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i have mine down now. I am replacing both sending units since i have the rear end out. is there a way to check to make sure it works properly before i put it all back together?
#24
Advanced
Not that I know of. The hoses and wires are not long enough to test with the tanks out of the enclosure. Just make sure everything goes back together correctly and pray.
#25
Heel & Toe
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#26
Le Mans Master
First, a brief note: the level senders on early C6s go from ~40 ohms (empty) to ~250 ohms (full). Sometime around MY2007, GM reversed this relationship so a dirty sender would cause the the fuel gauge to err on the side of empty rather than full.
Verify that you've got the right senders for your car by testing the output of one of the old senders. Check resistance with the float all the way down and all the way up.
Now check the resistance of the sender installed in the tank. With the tank right side up, it should read empty. Flip it over. It should read full. If it reads somewhere in between, the float is stuck on something.
#28
Advanced
I got the units from autopartswarehouse.com for $77 each. I think they are about $150 at the dealer. ACSK1227 & ACSK1228.
I ran the car as empty as I could based on how many miles are usually get to a tank. The right tank will be empty because it drains first. If you only have a couple of gallons left in the left tank, you can drain it after you drop it. It's not heavy unless it's full. Tony
I ran the car as empty as I could based on how many miles are usually get to a tank. The right tank will be empty because it drains first. If you only have a couple of gallons left in the left tank, you can drain it after you drop it. It's not heavy unless it's full. Tony
#29
Part numbers
That video was great, Taking the tank out would have been difficult if not impossible with out it. The sending unit in question was indeed covered with what ever it is that builds up on the contacts. I replaced the entire pump and sending unit assembly while I had it out. FYI, the Vette has 91,826 miles on it, so looking at it like that, assuming an average of 22.5 MPG (Which is what my car averages !!) The tanks have seen about 4080 gallons of fuel go thru them !!. Still it sucks that a sending unit would last about 5 years or so and cause that kind of a problem !!! Anyway, Thanks again. Roger.
#30
Can anybody tell me the part numbers. Eckler was asking over $800 for the pump and I can't seem to find fuel sending units. I'd like to do like Rogers and replace everything he did while I have to tanks down.
Thanks in advance
#31
Advanced
Airtex E3579M Fuel Pump - Direct fit
Part #: AFE3579M | Mfr #: E3579M
#33
Advanced
I haven't had any problems since I fixed it. I believe it's just the luck of the draw since there haven't been a lot of people complaining about the problem. GM claims it's a problem with the fuel. They have a bulletin out that recommends using a bottle (their version) of chevron techron concentrate plus. It's an higher grade of techron that's designed to clean the fuel level sensors in gm cars. They recommend a bottle a every oil change.
#34
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2014
Location: Huskerland
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2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
When I fill my 10 GS up all the way the fuel guage stops working and all the bells and whistles go off. I drive it a bit and all back to normal and everything works. I have learned how to fill it so I am just short of sending the guage haywire. I just put up with it and have tried to beat up Chevy since it started this just out of 3/36. Fuel system is not covered in the 5/100 drivetrane warranty starting in 2010.
Chevy said they would give me some help but I don't really want to tear the car apart now. As I have said many times the fuel systems on these cars are stupid. Is the C7 the same way?
Chevy said they would give me some help but I don't really want to tear the car apart now. As I have said many times the fuel systems on these cars are stupid. Is the C7 the same way?
#35
Advanced
I haven't had any problems since I fixed it. I believe it's just the luck of the draw since there haven't been a lot of people complaining about the problem. GM claims it's a problem with the fuel. They have a bulletin out that recommends using a bottle (their version) of chevron techron concentrate plus. It's an higher grade of techron that's designed to clean the fuel level sensors in gm cars. They recommend a bottle a every oil change.
#36
Overhead access to crossover pipe
The difficulty for this repair is accessing and unclipping the crossover pipe and the tubes inside. My 2005 c6 manual shift has 120,000 miles and I couldn't apply enough force to get to the inside tubes. In frustration, I went for an overhead access. The crossover pipe is located in the raised square tube affair that separates the seats from the cargo area. I pulled the carpet up and cut a one foot side-to-side slit at the very top of this square tube over where I knew the crossover pipe ended. I cut it with a auto body saw (cost me $27 new) and made sure I didn't go deep with the saw strokes. I could see the crossover pipe and the evap line through this slit as I was cutting, so it was easy to avoid them. I then cut slits 6 inches down, on both ends of the 12 incher and on both the bucket seat side and the cargo side. I then pried open my access port with a locking plier.
Suddenly the job was super easy. I could see everything and access everything. Unclipping the two inside tubes took less than 5 minutes. I had previously spent over 2 hours to no good trying to get these unclipped and the evap unclipped. Putting stuff back was even easier. I then bent the auto body metal back to original position and sealed up all the slits with a heavy duty metallic tape used in duct work, and reset the carpet.
Suddenly the job was super easy. I could see everything and access everything. Unclipping the two inside tubes took less than 5 minutes. I had previously spent over 2 hours to no good trying to get these unclipped and the evap unclipped. Putting stuff back was even easier. I then bent the auto body metal back to original position and sealed up all the slits with a heavy duty metallic tape used in duct work, and reset the carpet.
#37
Team Owner
I would suggest starting a new thread with this info, rather than adding to a three year old one. Lots of people will only read the first post and start offering the guy some advice three years later. You have good info here...good for more people to see it. Also a couple of pics would be really helpful.
#38
Advanced
The difficulty for this repair is accessing and unclipping the crossover pipe and the tubes inside. My 2005 c6 manual shift has 120,000 miles and I couldn't apply enough force to get to the inside tubes. In frustration, I went for an overhead access. The crossover pipe is located in the raised square tube affair that separates the seats from the cargo area. I pulled the carpet up and cut a one foot side-to-side slit at the very top of this square tube over where I knew the crossover pipe ended. I cut it with a auto body saw (cost me $27 new) and made sure I didn't go deep with the saw strokes. I could see the crossover pipe and the evap line through this slit as I was cutting, so it was easy to avoid them. I then cut slits 6 inches down, on both ends of the 12 incher and on both the bucket seat side and the cargo side. I then pried open my access port with a locking plier.
Suddenly the job was super easy. I could see everything and access everything. Unclipping the two inside tubes took less than 5 minutes. I had previously spent over 2 hours to no good trying to get these unclipped and the evap unclipped. Putting stuff back was even easier. I then bent the auto body metal back to original position and sealed up all the slits with a heavy duty metallic tape used in duct work, and reset the carpet.
Suddenly the job was super easy. I could see everything and access everything. Unclipping the two inside tubes took less than 5 minutes. I had previously spent over 2 hours to no good trying to get these unclipped and the evap unclipped. Putting stuff back was even easier. I then bent the auto body metal back to original position and sealed up all the slits with a heavy duty metallic tape used in duct work, and reset the carpet.
Good info however for the next person that needs to do it.
Thanks.