Borla ATAK II fitment issue
04-07-2012, 05:58 AM
#21
Advanced
Thread Starter
Okay
Got the Borla (11811) put on today.
Glad I took it to a shop....while I enjoy wrenching as much as I can, I could see myself loosing patience with worming the old cans off.
Everything is lined up about as perfect as possible.....and no issues with anything touching. At first, the left can was bumping up against a hanger bolt, but the installer got it sorted. Seems the can was not fully seated on the pipe that goes over the axle.
Sound is exactly what I was hoping for.....very deep tone, and no drone at highway speeds.
Only one issue......as I ease the clutch out in first gear, the deep harmonics are just right to get something in the back of the car to rattle just slightly. At first, I thought maybe it was the license plate. So I applied some foam isolator tape to the back of my plate to get it "off" of the car a little more. After a quick test drive, I thought I solved it. But, when backing into my garage feathering the throttle and slipping the clutch a bit, I could hear the rattle again. I noticed there is a tin heat shield above the exhaust components....maybe the culprit??? I definitely know the exhaust is not hitting anything.....I can grab both cans and jiggle them around a bit without touching any surrounding pieces.
So, 95% success to this point.....just need to figure out the rattle part.
Anyone experience this?
Got the Borla (11811) put on today.
Glad I took it to a shop....while I enjoy wrenching as much as I can, I could see myself loosing patience with worming the old cans off.
Everything is lined up about as perfect as possible.....and no issues with anything touching. At first, the left can was bumping up against a hanger bolt, but the installer got it sorted. Seems the can was not fully seated on the pipe that goes over the axle.
Sound is exactly what I was hoping for.....very deep tone, and no drone at highway speeds.
Only one issue......as I ease the clutch out in first gear, the deep harmonics are just right to get something in the back of the car to rattle just slightly. At first, I thought maybe it was the license plate. So I applied some foam isolator tape to the back of my plate to get it "off" of the car a little more. After a quick test drive, I thought I solved it. But, when backing into my garage feathering the throttle and slipping the clutch a bit, I could hear the rattle again. I noticed there is a tin heat shield above the exhaust components....maybe the culprit??? I definitely know the exhaust is not hitting anything.....I can grab both cans and jiggle them around a bit without touching any surrounding pieces.
So, 95% success to this point.....just need to figure out the rattle part.
Anyone experience this?
Update to follow after the fitment of the replacement one.
04-07-2012, 10:22 AM
#23
Racer
Well I think we all have had the same problems with the fit and I believe Borla needs to address it. They obviously have an issue with the over axle pipe on the driver's side. I called and sent pics to Borla. They are sending a replacement pipe. My only issue is that it could be 2-3 weeks before I get the replacement. Guess I have no choice other than listening to the rattle. I am a bit disappointed that the inside of the tip is not polished. I really expected that to be the case. I think for the money that should have been done. I do love the sound so guess I can work through some of the issues. I will let everyone know if the new pipe works.
Last edited by yellow96; 04-07-2012 at 11:51 AM.
04-07-2012, 10:31 AM
#24
Could have gotten the same sound, look, with much better attention to detail for almost half the price with the Stainless Works (made right here in Ohio - not off shore in the Philippines or Mexico)
S tube / straight thru flow, PN# C610CBSQUAD, can't mention the price or where I got them - because the Mods will mess themselves.
If you PM or email I will help you out - (no I'm not a vendor - nor am I affiliated with any in any way at all)
S tube / straight thru flow, PN# C610CBSQUAD, can't mention the price or where I got them - because the Mods will mess themselves.
If you PM or email I will help you out - (no I'm not a vendor - nor am I affiliated with any in any way at all)
Last edited by vettro; 04-07-2012 at 10:34 AM.
04-07-2012, 11:43 AM
#25
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Missouri City Texas
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At this point, it would seem that I do not have a fitment issue with the driver's side pipe.
Perhaps they have already made a revision??
Date of production on the Borla box shows to be 3/29/12.
Perhaps they have already made a revision??
Date of production on the Borla box shows to be 3/29/12.
04-07-2012, 04:53 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
I fixed my X-pipe yesterday with the help of my welder. I had to cut about 90% all the way through the pipe so I could relieve enough tension to put the pipe straight, then my welder did his thing keeping the heat down so as to not pull the SS. The X-pipe is now perfect, and after spending a few hours messing with the exhaust hangers, the exhaust now sits level, but it is still closer to the drivers side of the diffuser. I had enough for today so, I just torqued everything down so I could drive it.
I have only gone around the block but, I can say they do sound awesome! I haven't heard any drone as of yet but, I will head out on the highway to give it a real test.
DJ
I have only gone around the block but, I can say they do sound awesome! I haven't heard any drone as of yet but, I will head out on the highway to give it a real test.
DJ
04-07-2012, 08:18 PM
#27
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Missouri City Texas
Posts: 410
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Well, I spoke too soon.
Found the rattle.....it is the exhaust hitting up against the back hanger bracket bolts.
Doesn't do it at startup, but when fully heated up, the expansion of the system is enough to push it back into the hangers.
This sucks.
Calling Borla Monday, and checking out alternatives in the meantime.
Did I mention this sucks?
Found the rattle.....it is the exhaust hitting up against the back hanger bracket bolts.
Doesn't do it at startup, but when fully heated up, the expansion of the system is enough to push it back into the hangers.
This sucks.
Calling Borla Monday, and checking out alternatives in the meantime.
Did I mention this sucks?
Last edited by All2Easy; 04-07-2012 at 08:33 PM.
04-07-2012, 08:22 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
Well, I spoke too soon.
Found the rattle.....it is the exhaust hitting up against the back hanger bracket bolts.
Doesn't do it startup, but when fully heated up, the expansion of the system is enough to push it back into the hangers.
This sucks.
Calling Borla Monday, and checking out alternatives in the meantime.
Did I mention this sucks?
Found the rattle.....it is the exhaust hitting up against the back hanger bracket bolts.
Doesn't do it startup, but when fully heated up, the expansion of the system is enough to push it back into the hangers.
This sucks.
Calling Borla Monday, and checking out alternatives in the meantime.
Did I mention this sucks?
DJ
04-08-2012, 05:03 AM
#29
Advanced
Thread Starter
Well, I spoke too soon.
Found the rattle.....it is the exhaust hitting up against the back hanger bracket bolts.
Doesn't do it at startup, but when fully heated up, the expansion of the system is enough to push it back into the hangers.
This sucks.
Calling Borla Monday, and checking out alternatives in the meantime.
Did I mention this sucks?
Found the rattle.....it is the exhaust hitting up against the back hanger bracket bolts.
Doesn't do it at startup, but when fully heated up, the expansion of the system is enough to push it back into the hangers.
This sucks.
Calling Borla Monday, and checking out alternatives in the meantime.
Did I mention this sucks?
How much clearance did you have to the hanger when cold? I have about 1 1/4".
04-08-2012, 07:57 AM
#30
Safety Car
You have 11/4" clearance and it still hits? That should be more than enough. When I had the Stinger2 installed, they hit where the over axle pipe left the Xpipe at the 1st. bend. I loosened everything and got about 1" clearance and tightened. Never hit again. 11/4" shouldn't hit.
04-08-2012, 10:47 AM
#32
Safety Car
Sorry to hear of the issues you guys are having.......for now I'll stick with my NPP's.....fuse removed !
04-08-2012, 12:24 PM
#33
I had mine installed last week, but only was able to drive the car home (went on vaca). I'm hoping I don't have the same issue. I had ECS do the install. They did have to adjust the right side now that I think about it.
Maybe install some sort of rubber bushing to stop the metal on metal?
All in all they do sound great.
Maybe install some sort of rubber bushing to stop the metal on metal?
All in all they do sound great.
04-08-2012, 01:11 PM
#34
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Missouri City Texas
Posts: 410
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Okay all, the latest.
Sitting in my garage last night thinking about this problem while enjoying my third beer, I decided to back the car up on my ramps and go over everything again.
Just for the hell of it, I wanted to see if the connector pipes were really as far as they could go into the H pipe.
I loosened the clamps, and marked the connector pipes with a Sharpie about an inch downstream of the clamps.
I then proceeded to spray some Liquid Wrench around the connetor pipes.
After another beer, I proceeded to hit the back of the cans (mufflers) with my rubber mallet (Reef flip flop backed by a size 13 foot) that would result in pushing the connector pipes further into the H pipe if they were not fully seated.
When I crawled back under to see if this did anything, the Sharpie marks I had made were gone! So, both pipes were indeed not seated fully into the H pipe.
Another beer, tightened everything down, backed the car off the ramps, put her to bed in the garage, had one more beer, and then went to bed myself.
After washing my wife's car this morning, I took mine out for a good city / highway drive to get the exhaust fully up to temp.
No rattles.
When I got back, I carefully slid under the rear of the car while it was still idling to see what kind of clearance remained. From eyeballing it, looks as if the cans were still about an inch off the brackets.
This may turn out okay after all.
Only issue left......the drivers side exhaust tips stick out about a half inch further than the passenger side. I could pull the passenger side back to compensate, but am more concerned with clearance issues than appearance for the moment.
I will report back when I have a solid week of driving to see if my fix holds. Still going to contact Borla about this.....my thought is either the connector pipe on the drivers side needs to be shorter, or they need to move the brackets on the muffler so they are offset to the bolt that attaches the hanger to the car.
Sitting in my garage last night thinking about this problem while enjoying my third beer, I decided to back the car up on my ramps and go over everything again.
Just for the hell of it, I wanted to see if the connector pipes were really as far as they could go into the H pipe.
I loosened the clamps, and marked the connector pipes with a Sharpie about an inch downstream of the clamps.
I then proceeded to spray some Liquid Wrench around the connetor pipes.
After another beer, I proceeded to hit the back of the cans (mufflers) with my rubber mallet (Reef flip flop backed by a size 13 foot) that would result in pushing the connector pipes further into the H pipe if they were not fully seated.
When I crawled back under to see if this did anything, the Sharpie marks I had made were gone! So, both pipes were indeed not seated fully into the H pipe.
Another beer, tightened everything down, backed the car off the ramps, put her to bed in the garage, had one more beer, and then went to bed myself.
After washing my wife's car this morning, I took mine out for a good city / highway drive to get the exhaust fully up to temp.
No rattles.
When I got back, I carefully slid under the rear of the car while it was still idling to see what kind of clearance remained. From eyeballing it, looks as if the cans were still about an inch off the brackets.
This may turn out okay after all.
Only issue left......the drivers side exhaust tips stick out about a half inch further than the passenger side. I could pull the passenger side back to compensate, but am more concerned with clearance issues than appearance for the moment.
I will report back when I have a solid week of driving to see if my fix holds. Still going to contact Borla about this.....my thought is either the connector pipe on the drivers side needs to be shorter, or they need to move the brackets on the muffler so they are offset to the bolt that attaches the hanger to the car.
04-09-2012, 06:54 AM
#35
Advanced
Thread Starter
Okay all, the latest.
Sitting in my garage last night thinking about this problem while enjoying my third beer, I decided to back the car up on my ramps and go over everything again.
Just for the hell of it, I wanted to see if the connector pipes were really as far as they could go into the H pipe.
I loosened the clamps, and marked the connector pipes with a Sharpie about an inch downstream of the clamps.
I then proceeded to spray some Liquid Wrench around the connetor pipes.
After another beer, I proceeded to hit the back of the cans (mufflers) with my rubber mallet (Reef flip flop backed by a size 13 foot) that would result in pushing the connector pipes further into the H pipe if they were not fully seated.
When I crawled back under to see if this did anything, the Sharpie marks I had made were gone! So, both pipes were indeed not seated fully into the H pipe.
Another beer, tightened everything down, backed the car off the ramps, put her to bed in the garage, had one more beer, and then went to bed myself.
After washing my wife's car this morning, I took mine out for a good city / highway drive to get the exhaust fully up to temp.
No rattles.
When I got back, I carefully slid under the rear of the car while it was still idling to see what kind of clearance remained. From eyeballing it, looks as if the cans were still about an inch off the brackets.
This may turn out okay after all.
Only issue left......the drivers side exhaust tips stick out about a half inch further than the passenger side. I could pull the passenger side back to compensate, but am more concerned with clearance issues than appearance for the moment.
I will report back when I have a solid week of driving to see if my fix holds. Still going to contact Borla about this.....my thought is either the connector pipe on the drivers side needs to be shorter, or they need to move the brackets on the muffler so they are offset to the bolt that attaches the hanger to the car.
Sitting in my garage last night thinking about this problem while enjoying my third beer, I decided to back the car up on my ramps and go over everything again.
Just for the hell of it, I wanted to see if the connector pipes were really as far as they could go into the H pipe.
I loosened the clamps, and marked the connector pipes with a Sharpie about an inch downstream of the clamps.
I then proceeded to spray some Liquid Wrench around the connetor pipes.
After another beer, I proceeded to hit the back of the cans (mufflers) with my rubber mallet (Reef flip flop backed by a size 13 foot) that would result in pushing the connector pipes further into the H pipe if they were not fully seated.
When I crawled back under to see if this did anything, the Sharpie marks I had made were gone! So, both pipes were indeed not seated fully into the H pipe.
Another beer, tightened everything down, backed the car off the ramps, put her to bed in the garage, had one more beer, and then went to bed myself.
After washing my wife's car this morning, I took mine out for a good city / highway drive to get the exhaust fully up to temp.
No rattles.
When I got back, I carefully slid under the rear of the car while it was still idling to see what kind of clearance remained. From eyeballing it, looks as if the cans were still about an inch off the brackets.
This may turn out okay after all.
Only issue left......the drivers side exhaust tips stick out about a half inch further than the passenger side. I could pull the passenger side back to compensate, but am more concerned with clearance issues than appearance for the moment.
I will report back when I have a solid week of driving to see if my fix holds. Still going to contact Borla about this.....my thought is either the connector pipe on the drivers side needs to be shorter, or they need to move the brackets on the muffler so they are offset to the bolt that attaches the hanger to the car.
04-09-2012, 07:13 AM
#36
Only issue left......the drivers side exhaust tips stick out about a half inch further than the passenger side. I could pull the passenger side back to compensate, but am more concerned with clearance issues than appearance for the moment.
I should have said yes, but didn't and regretted it it until I finally took them off because of D R O N E ...
04-15-2012, 11:29 AM
#37
Advanced
Thread Starter
Had the replacement installed yesterday and got the same results, left side will not fit correctly. When I look at the over axle pipe it looks like it is about 1" shorter than the right side. The right side fits correctly and the left side the front of the can is higher than the rear by about the same amount. My conclusion is the left over axle pipe is to short. Going to discuss with Borla tomorrow. More to follow.
04-15-2012, 11:51 AM
#38
Melting Slicks
Had the replacement installed yesterday and got the same results, left side will not fit correctly. When I look at the over axle pipe it looks like it is about 1" shorter than the right side. The right side fits correctly and the left side the front of the can is higher than the rear by about the same amount. My conclusion is the left over axle pipe is to short. Going to discuss with Borla tomorrow. More to follow.
DJ
04-15-2012, 12:01 PM
#39
Had the replacement installed yesterday and got the same results, left side will not fit correctly. When I look at the over axle pipe it looks like it is about 1" shorter than the right side. The right side fits correctly and the left side the front of the can is higher than the rear by about the same amount. My conclusion is the left over axle pipe is to short. Going to discuss with Borla tomorrow. More to follow.
Please let us know your progress. Upon inspection, mine is the same (left shorter than right). You can only really notice when standng over the rear deck and look straight down, but knowing its shorter is enough. I was out on the track on Friday at NJ Motorsports Park and there were no apparent issues and it didnt move after a full day of hard driving.
04-15-2012, 12:06 PM
#40
Melting Slicks
Please let us know your progress. Upon inspection, mine is the same (left shorter than right). You can only really notice when standng over the rear deck and look straight down, but knowing its shorter is enough. I was out on the track on Friday at NJ Motorsports Park and there were no apparent issues and it didnt move after a full day of hard driving.
Are your tips coming out at the correct angle? From the sounds of some of the posts, I could be reading this wrong, but the exit angle of one muffler is slightly different than the other. It would be nice to see some under car pics.
DJ
