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DIY Fix for "Loose Gas Cap" indicator aka code P0449 w/Pics
#162
Race Car Tech
The following 2 users liked this post by 4SUMERZ:
Dutch08 (06-19-2018),
Vet Interested (09-16-2017)
#164
Race Director
The following users liked this post:
yellow2007 (08-30-2017)
#165
Melting Slicks
Thanks. When I saw that pic with the crossover pipe I thought the tub had to be dropped but heck, if you can see it just being jacked up, I'll doit myself. The tech that just replaced my sending units, crossover pipe and fuel feed lines said he'd look at it but I may take a stab at it and save the 45 minute drive.
#166
Instructor
I couldn't see the location of the part at all just now while attempting this. I'm assuming I'd have to remove my Magnaflow exhaust to get to it. Don't really want to start taking things off.
I'll probably end up just taking it to a shop unless someone with experience doing this in the Houston area would like to assist for a bottle of bourbon... any takers?
I'll probably end up just taking it to a shop unless someone with experience doing this in the Houston area would like to assist for a bottle of bourbon... any takers?
#167
6th Gear
Great Post
Thanks for the post. It was very helpful. I just want to add 2 things. I found it much easier to access the solenoid by backing the car up onto ramps and crawling under from the back. Second, my car is a 2005. For some reason, GM changed the design of the electrical connection on the solenoid (Part # 1357-5703) so I did need to use the "Upgraded" harness/adapter (Part # 19257603). It cost $26.60 for the solenoid and $37.72 for the adapter from the dealer!
#168
Melting Slicks
Thanks for the post. It was very helpful. I just want to add 2 things. I found it much easier to access the solenoid by backing the car up onto ramps and crawling under from the back. Second, my car is a 2005. For some reason, GM changed the design of the electrical connection on the solenoid (Part # 1357-5703) so I did need to use the "Upgraded" harness/adapter (Part # 19257603). It cost $26.60 for the solenoid and $37.72 for the adapter from the dealer!
#169
6th Gear
Here is a video I found that was also helpful:
Last edited by Moe19; 06-19-2018 at 01:23 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Frankie15 (06-19-2018)
#170
Melting Slicks
No problems removing the hose. There is another plug that is in the way. You can rotate it out of the way, but be careful not to break it. I broke the clip that holds that plug away from the transmission but I was able to tie it up with a tie down. Not a big deal. Also, my Vette is a standard shift. I read that if you have an automatic, you may have to remove the right muffler to get to the solenoid.
Here is a video I found that was also helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CbXQWOw6p8
Here is a video I found that was also helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CbXQWOw6p8
Thanks for the tip!
#171
Race Director
I have thin arms and was unable to get one of the solenoid clamps off due to it's positioning on the hose. Perhaps a special 90* set of pliers would have worked. It went to the dealer who did a good job and not screw up anything.
#172
Instructor
Po449
This post is great. My 2005 M6 just picked up this code last week. With the info here, I purchased the parts from my local Chevrolet dealer. From start to finish, it took 50 minutes. I did not have to remove the tire.
#174
Drifting
Need advice getting to the solenoid on an A6 C6
UPDATE: I completed this replacement. I bought an extra long pair of needle nose pliers to get at the hose clamp. JOB DONE. Cleared code, it did not come back (so far).
Great write up. I ordered a solenoid and harness on Amazon. The new solenoid has the rounded ends connector, so the old harness should attach. Hopefully it is good because the GM harness I bought has the square connector and will be of no use with my new solenoid.
I have a 2009 C6 with A6 transmission. That makes it a lot tighter trying to reach the solenoid.
Let me explain what I have done so far:
I've been working for hours attempting to get the hose disconnected because of insufficient room. I am able to get my hand in and unplug the connector, and I can also slide the solenoid off its bracket. I've started working to lower the exhaust. I removed the two bolts at the back that hold the muffler up. I've loosened the clamp where the exhaust pipe goes into the H-pipe. The muffler lowered about half inch to the sway bar, and that did not provide much clearance to reach the solenoid. Also, I have the NPP exhaust and so I was unable to get the vacuum hose off.
If I can find a tool that allows me to reach up and expand that spring hose clamp, I'll take that route to finish this. Assuming I can't find such a tool, I see two options.
I need some feedback regarding the options I am considering. The first is probably the easiest if there is enough existing length of hose.
1. Cut the hose as close to the solenoid as I can. Install the new solenoid and use a hose clamp to replace the spring clamp that I can't get a tool on. Then put my exhaust back up and be done.
2. Remove the sway bar and lower or remove the muffler and pipe. I'll need the torque values for putting the sway bar back if I do this. Can anyone provide those? I'll need to figure out how to get that vacuum line loose from the NPP mechanism. Any tips for that? If I go with this approach, I should be able to get the spring clamp off the hose and not need to cut the hose that goes to the solenoid.
Whatever tips people can provide will be appreciated.
Great write up. I ordered a solenoid and harness on Amazon. The new solenoid has the rounded ends connector, so the old harness should attach. Hopefully it is good because the GM harness I bought has the square connector and will be of no use with my new solenoid.
I have a 2009 C6 with A6 transmission. That makes it a lot tighter trying to reach the solenoid.
Let me explain what I have done so far:
I've been working for hours attempting to get the hose disconnected because of insufficient room. I am able to get my hand in and unplug the connector, and I can also slide the solenoid off its bracket. I've started working to lower the exhaust. I removed the two bolts at the back that hold the muffler up. I've loosened the clamp where the exhaust pipe goes into the H-pipe. The muffler lowered about half inch to the sway bar, and that did not provide much clearance to reach the solenoid. Also, I have the NPP exhaust and so I was unable to get the vacuum hose off.
If I can find a tool that allows me to reach up and expand that spring hose clamp, I'll take that route to finish this. Assuming I can't find such a tool, I see two options.
I need some feedback regarding the options I am considering. The first is probably the easiest if there is enough existing length of hose.
1. Cut the hose as close to the solenoid as I can. Install the new solenoid and use a hose clamp to replace the spring clamp that I can't get a tool on. Then put my exhaust back up and be done.
2. Remove the sway bar and lower or remove the muffler and pipe. I'll need the torque values for putting the sway bar back if I do this. Can anyone provide those? I'll need to figure out how to get that vacuum line loose from the NPP mechanism. Any tips for that? If I go with this approach, I should be able to get the spring clamp off the hose and not need to cut the hose that goes to the solenoid.
Whatever tips people can provide will be appreciated.
Last edited by cartop2; 07-08-2019 at 12:18 PM.
#176
Advanced
Sorry, I miss read. The problem I had was not the clamp, but getting the hose off. The pliers worked perfect for that. I do not remember any issues with a clamp.
I have a auto trans and found it a tight fit getting to it, but the hose was the part that was most difficult for me to get off.
I have a auto trans and found it a tight fit getting to it, but the hose was the part that was most difficult for me to get off.
#177
Drifting
Sorry, I miss read. The problem I had was not the clamp, but getting the hose off. The pliers worked perfect for that. I do not remember any issues with a clamp.
I have a auto trans and found it a tight fit getting to it, but the hose was the part that was most difficult for me to get off.
I have a auto trans and found it a tight fit getting to it, but the hose was the part that was most difficult for me to get off.
#178
Racer
[QUOTE
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
Attachment 48187116
[/QUOTE]
Where is your exhaust in this photo? I can't even get my hand up in there, much less hold and use a pair of pliers.
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
Attachment 48187116
[/QUOTE]
Where is your exhaust in this photo? I can't even get my hand up in there, much less hold and use a pair of pliers.
#179
Team Owner
[QUOTE
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
[url=http://s106.photobucket.com/user/JKbride/media/DIY%20Pics/Fuel%20Vent/005.jpg.html]Attachment 48187116
Once under the car this is what you will see, and I have my finger on the part:
[url=http://s106.photobucket.com/user/JKbride/media/DIY%20Pics/Fuel%20Vent/005.jpg.html]Attachment 48187116
#180
Intermediate
I had a strong smell of gas after pulling into my garage on my '09 Z yesterday when it was super hot outside. Locating the smell toward the rear of the car I was already setting up to drop the tank to do the typical broken fuel pump fix and dreading it. Just for fun, I let the car run for about an hour on stands so I could check my original diagnosis. The smell was coming from the passenger's side wheel-well, so now I'm double dreading dropping that tank. After staring at the tank underneath thinking of the procedure, I caught the visual of vapors coming out of this solenoid. I was thrilled to see that this was the problem and not the fuel pump or tank. It was wide open and venting a bunch of vapor (oddly enough, no CEL).
If you smell gas on this era C6, don't go right to the most likely fuel pump problem, as it might actually be an easy one. It would have been easier if the Delco part I was given at the dealership actually had the correct plug connection. The updated plug is more square than the original oval. It seems there is a pigtail adapter that does not come in the Delco box you have to buy separately. Since they had closed already, I went to AutoZone and got the part and behold, it had the correct plug. Hope this helps someone.
If you smell gas on this era C6, don't go right to the most likely fuel pump problem, as it might actually be an easy one. It would have been easier if the Delco part I was given at the dealership actually had the correct plug connection. The updated plug is more square than the original oval. It seems there is a pigtail adapter that does not come in the Delco box you have to buy separately. Since they had closed already, I went to AutoZone and got the part and behold, it had the correct plug. Hope this helps someone.