Don-Vette

[QUOTE=victorf;1583830103]You and the OP are the only one making any sense.

The two guys that claimed to have 30+ years in the trade are giving machinist a bad name.



LMFAO!!!

Steve_R

Um, wrong, they're lug centric. But that's a whole 'nother discussion.

Gearhead Jim

That guy who used some WD40 on his lugs and twisted off two of them before ever getting to 100 lb-ft, might disagree.

If someone would like to stop by my place and let me torque his wheels to 300, I'll supply the wrench and the beer.

Gearhead Jim

You guys have outlined my next move.
Torque wrench is a CDI only a few months old, and agrees with my other older wrench, so I'm confident it's accurate.

I knew there was a reason I bought that extra set of lug nuts six years ago...

Steve_R

The drive for me to come watch is a bit far, so take video. Post it here. The amusement value will be epic.

42Chevy

Here comes another opinion. You said it happens when you get them almost torqued. I take it the nut is running down smooth till that point. To me that indicates the threads are ok. Look at the tapered seat area of the nut and the wheel. Those surfaces should be smooth, but I believe that is where you will find your galling and it is causing the dragging feeling you are getting. Hopefully its just on the nuts and your extra set will cure your problem.

Gearhead Jim

Thanks, I'll check that also!

RobLo

Same here and never a problem, I use a LITTLE dab of Never Seize on the studs. Based on a recent post on the Forum, I called the Never Seize company and was told to reduce the torque by 20% when using their product. If you use some kind of anti seize compound you might want to check with them as to torque specs. One other thing, I don't use the "step" torquing process, just snug everything up and then torque to 80 ft. lbs. in a star pattern, good luck!

ZR1Cat

"triple lead acme"?? "square threads"?? I am impressed, but WTF is that stuff? -from a non-machinist also named Don.

40 years for me, too. I always use a slight smear. But, then I am just an amateur, shade tree mechanic.

victorf

Gearhead, based on all your former postings, I am confident that you will use good tools to tackle this intelligently.

As member 42Chevy stated the possibility might be on the mating surface, that can be easily verify using very light blueing, or apply permanent marker on the taper sitting surface of the lug, sent it home, remove, then visual check the seating surface on the wheel.

Case in point, last Xmas, I took advantage of the discount w/free shipping from McGard, bought the McGard wheel lugs for my C6, noticed seating angle was a little different. Compared with stock lug with an Starrett Protractor, there was a 2* differential angle. So I blue checked stock and Mcgard lugs, they both share a contact band vary between 1/8" - 3/16". Further, both C6 and Honda shares the same wheel lock stock number and I am using wheel locks on my Honda. McGard wheel lock seating surface is conical instead of straight taper. So...evidently, contact for the torque draw is focused on very narrow contacting surface on each of the 5 lugs. Very interesting.

Please let us know how yours turned out.

victorf

Just an FYI for those are interested, multiple leads used on screw thread is for fast engagement, Example: on fire hydrant cap, multiple lead is used to facilitate fireman's quick removal of the cap during fire rescues. To further improve multiple lead, simply milled off concentrically 180* from the beginning of the imperfect thread to ended up with an square corner for the start of the perfect thread - in essence, the combination will provide an bur free quick engagement without tiddies lining up of mating parts to avoid misalignment - as in the case during an fire rescue.

Tonylmiller

I am an aerospace engineer who works on manned space flight hardware. I work with fasteners and torque specs all the time. While lug nuts and studs on a car are probably fairly forgiving, there is NO WAY that I would put lubricant, even WD40, on wheel lugs or studs.

Bad idea, I don't care how long you have been doing it.

RobLo

Impressive resume, thanks for your post. Curious, can you tell me why you wouldn't use anything, thanks.

EyeMaster

What's making the cracking is the seating surface, not the threads. Put a very small ammount of anti seize there if you wish. It's probably due to irregularities.

If it's the thread making the cracking, there might be something wrong. Had that problem with the Ford and I had to get some studs replaced.

Don-Vette

The debate on whether or not you should lube your threads on Internet forums has been and will go on forever. I work on my own vehicles. I never have to fight rusted or corroded nuts and bolts. Nuff said, have a nice day.

HOXXOH

100%

If the spare set of lugnuts exhibit the same issues, then try a different wheel. It's certainly not the threads that are the problem, so the mating surfaces are the issue.

Make sure that both the lugnuts and wheels are free from any crud or flaking paint (as in the case of painted wheels) before installing.

I've had my wheels on and off well over 50 times just changing to DRs at the track. I'm on the 3rd set of lugnuts, but the OEM ones were the worst for imbedding crap.

Steve_R

There really is no debate, there's technically correct and incorrect. That said, for non-critical fasteners it probably doesn't matter a lot. However, if you use your approach for some internal engine and trans fasteners, ring gear bolts, and the like and ignore whether they're supposed to be torqued wet or dry you will learn a very expensive lesson the hard way. The more critical the fastener and components the more important it is. I've worked in the military and nuclear power fields, and if anyone ignored the wet or dry part of torque specs they'd be in huge trouble and probably unemployed. Same with working in aviation.

Feel free to keep posting that you know better and ignore the specs, but that just makes you look silly.

Tonylmiller

The reasons have already been stated. The loading of the fastener is totally different if the threads have been lubricated. As the owner's manual states, do not lubricate the threads.

That is not to say that thread lubricants are always bad. But in the case of lug studs and nuts, just say no.

Don-Vette

Come on Steve, I agree to disagree. I'll keep anti-seize on my wheel studs and you keep them dry. This must be the only car forum you have ever been on if you say there is no debate on the subject.

Steve_R

It's kinda like debating whether my VY Vette is yellow. It can be debated, but there's only one right answer.