Tell Me What The Diablosport Tuner Did For Your Car ??
01-30-2014, 08:54 AM
#1
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Tell Me What The Diablosport Tuner Did For Your Car ??
Is it worth the money ? what did it do ??
01-30-2014, 10:16 AM
#2
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A little bit of seat of the pants difference, enough to notice but not so much that you'll be blown away. If you're going to do it I'd say spend a few more bucks and get a custom tune done by Lew (06MonteSS). That for me really made a difference that I could feel.
There are some good threads in the scan and tune section.
There are some good threads in the scan and tune section.
01-30-2014, 10:36 AM
#3
Unless you have mod's that require a retune to begin with, then it's not HP that your going to gain a great deal with a box tune.
My all-stock 05 LS2 Z51 M6 went from 353 SAE RWHP to 362 SAE RWHP with a dyno turn, but the reason for the tune was not to gain HP.
The throttle response blew big time for the first part of the throttle, so the first thing was to go into the throttle table to max out the responses to get a faster throttle response (05 thing). Next was to play with the torque management that was holding the throttle back as well. Also a few other tables where od'd to get a faster throttle response and a quicker back to idle decay.
From there, standard bypass on the 1 to 4, changed out the top speed chart, then a few other mods like changing back the recall steering column lock to old factory setting ( instead of the cut-off to 2mph that the recall installed).
Now for HP, and where is where you need a Dyno and wide band to really see what the engine is doing/needs corrected. The LS2 has good punch until you hit the end of the torque climb, but once you run out of climbing torque, the HP climb is no longer steady upwards (engine feels like it going flat and you can see it in the HP curve read out).
During the torque climb curve, the engine runs on the richer side (still plus 13), then once it gets to the end of the torque climb range, the engine will try to lean out a touch to keep the HP climb steady increasing, but not enough to really get the job done (that cant make the LS-2 faster than the LS-6 factory tune thing).
So regarding the "HP tune" part of the math, it was the lean out at top RPM that was corrected so the car now pulls strong all the way to Red line after the torque climb runs out, instead of the old dragging to red line after 5K that the factory tune produced.
So bottom of the Rpm range was correct when increasing the throttle pedal to valve response time, gained a touch on the mid range punch, but the real gain in HP was the engine now reving to red line HP climb linear/steady hard HP climb, instead of the factory tune HP climb going flat after 5K instead.
Note, on the factory tune, the engine HP climb going flatter after 5K is like a shift light to tell you to shift before hitting the rev limiter. With my tune (where you pick up the extra top HP), you get no engine feed back warning/HP climb slowing feeling that you about to slam into the rev limiter.
And again, each engine is different, so without a Dyno tune to get this dialed in perfectly per your engine, it not going to happen on a box tune.
To be blunt, if you are looking for a boxed tune, then a mail order tune will fit the bill a lot cheaper (around $150).
If you are trying to squeeze out all the engine has to offer, then your not going to get there with a Boxed tune (leaves too much still on the table), and time for a dyno tune instead (around $400).
Note here, depending on your tuner, $100 of the Dyno tune goes to EFIlive or HP tuner out the gate to use there software to tune the car.
Lastly, before you start bolting on items like a high flow air filter system that may require a tune due to the new placement of the MAF, get the real numbers of the HP gains alone for the device (not after the device is added then car tuned, with the real HP incremental from the tune alone).
Most stock to after market intact systems will net you only a few HP if compared to a stock car tuned, then tuned again after the device is added.
Note: the stock air system is not as restrictive as they let on for the stock engine, and truth is, some of the after market system do more damage to the engine by the inadequate filters not catching/letting debris though instead).
My all-stock 05 LS2 Z51 M6 went from 353 SAE RWHP to 362 SAE RWHP with a dyno turn, but the reason for the tune was not to gain HP.
The throttle response blew big time for the first part of the throttle, so the first thing was to go into the throttle table to max out the responses to get a faster throttle response (05 thing). Next was to play with the torque management that was holding the throttle back as well. Also a few other tables where od'd to get a faster throttle response and a quicker back to idle decay.
From there, standard bypass on the 1 to 4, changed out the top speed chart, then a few other mods like changing back the recall steering column lock to old factory setting ( instead of the cut-off to 2mph that the recall installed).
Now for HP, and where is where you need a Dyno and wide band to really see what the engine is doing/needs corrected. The LS2 has good punch until you hit the end of the torque climb, but once you run out of climbing torque, the HP climb is no longer steady upwards (engine feels like it going flat and you can see it in the HP curve read out).
During the torque climb curve, the engine runs on the richer side (still plus 13), then once it gets to the end of the torque climb range, the engine will try to lean out a touch to keep the HP climb steady increasing, but not enough to really get the job done (that cant make the LS-2 faster than the LS-6 factory tune thing).
So regarding the "HP tune" part of the math, it was the lean out at top RPM that was corrected so the car now pulls strong all the way to Red line after the torque climb runs out, instead of the old dragging to red line after 5K that the factory tune produced.
So bottom of the Rpm range was correct when increasing the throttle pedal to valve response time, gained a touch on the mid range punch, but the real gain in HP was the engine now reving to red line HP climb linear/steady hard HP climb, instead of the factory tune HP climb going flat after 5K instead.
Note, on the factory tune, the engine HP climb going flatter after 5K is like a shift light to tell you to shift before hitting the rev limiter. With my tune (where you pick up the extra top HP), you get no engine feed back warning/HP climb slowing feeling that you about to slam into the rev limiter.
And again, each engine is different, so without a Dyno tune to get this dialed in perfectly per your engine, it not going to happen on a box tune.
To be blunt, if you are looking for a boxed tune, then a mail order tune will fit the bill a lot cheaper (around $150).
If you are trying to squeeze out all the engine has to offer, then your not going to get there with a Boxed tune (leaves too much still on the table), and time for a dyno tune instead (around $400).
Note here, depending on your tuner, $100 of the Dyno tune goes to EFIlive or HP tuner out the gate to use there software to tune the car.
Lastly, before you start bolting on items like a high flow air filter system that may require a tune due to the new placement of the MAF, get the real numbers of the HP gains alone for the device (not after the device is added then car tuned, with the real HP incremental from the tune alone).
Most stock to after market intact systems will net you only a few HP if compared to a stock car tuned, then tuned again after the device is added.
Note: the stock air system is not as restrictive as they let on for the stock engine, and truth is, some of the after market system do more damage to the engine by the inadequate filters not catching/letting debris though instead).
Last edited by Dano523; 01-30-2014 at 11:18 AM.
01-30-2014, 10:50 AM
#4
Advanced
. I assume 353 to 362?
01-30-2014, 11:19 AM
#5
